BostonDIYer
Member
Lol thank you for the advice.
I think this will be my last question, I swear. Can that vent tee on its back be anything less than 90 degrees? I am a little concerned with the added vertical distance and turning it slightly toward the wall would get me closer to comfortable. The previous install was configured with a slight turn which they made up with the short 45 degree connector into the 1.5" vent.
I am going to tackle the drain line next. Been working on the pex water lines so far. Check this sh*t out... Ignore that it looks slightly like a crack den, I wasn't trying to burn this place down just yet!
I tested them with some water pressure coming in, no leaks yet. I will run a significantly longer test after I finish fishing the pex through the existing penetrations and get to terminate everything. I've soldered electronics before. Doing it with a blow torch makes it 10x more exciting!
I think this will be my last question, I swear. Can that vent tee on its back be anything less than 90 degrees? I am a little concerned with the added vertical distance and turning it slightly toward the wall would get me closer to comfortable. The previous install was configured with a slight turn which they made up with the short 45 degree connector into the 1.5" vent.
I am going to tackle the drain line next. Been working on the pex water lines so far. Check this sh*t out... Ignore that it looks slightly like a crack den, I wasn't trying to burn this place down just yet!
I tested them with some water pressure coming in, no leaks yet. I will run a significantly longer test after I finish fishing the pex through the existing penetrations and get to terminate everything. I've soldered electronics before. Doing it with a blow torch makes it 10x more exciting!
OK, your vent has to come off the drain line vertically, or no more than 45 degrees off vertical which is the way your original vent was done. So at least by the pictures, it appears you will have to use the existing vent line and the original path of the drain line. If you do have issues being able to fit the piping layout in your existing space and depending on the elevation of the drain line relative to the shower floor, you possibly could use a 22.5-degree street elbow right at the hole in the joist to begin the turn towards your shower drain. You just need to be sure you can clear the shower floor with the vent line and not drop the angle more than 45 degrees off vertical.
You can get a 2"x2"x1 1/2" combo fitting at a plumbing supply store.
View attachment 41689
But you can use a 2" combo and bush the branch down to 1 1/2" for the vent line. However, Home Depot does have a 2"x2"x1 1/2" reducing wye, and with a 1 1/2" street 45 on the branch, it might fit better in the space you have than a 2" combo. That is provided you don't want to use a Sanitary tee like you had before. I personally would use a Sanitary tee there, but others would say to use the combo or wye assembly. Home Depot does have a 2"x2"x1 1/2" reducing Sanitary tee.
To install all this, it is just a matter of cutting the pipe to the correct lengths and making sure you have the 1/4" slope from the P-trap weir to the vent connection, and at least a 1/4" per foot slope in the line after the vent to the sewer connection. It may help you to add a few wood pieces between the joists and some shims to help you establish and maintain the slopes.
Dry fit everything but remember once you prime and apply the glue to the joint, the pipe will go farther into the hub of the fitting than it will when it is dry fit. A 2" pipe will go into the hub about 3/4" until it bottoms out in the fitting. So, your dry fit assembly will not fit in your space.
You'll have a few seconds to play with the joint before it sets, and you need to hold the pipe or fitting tight into the hub being glued for around 30 seconds or so, or it will squeeze itself out and you will say bad words.