Septic Inlet too high to connect new line into

[Poochi62]

That’s correct. I can’t stress enough of how important the basin is. In my area we want the basin about 1” above the ground. This makes servicing it simple as it can be. That’s the only type basin that I’ll use in most of my installs.

You’ll need the float mount that secures on the outlet pipe to set your float level.

You’ll also need a union so you can disconnect and remove the pump from the basin.

You’ll need to leave extra wire so you can also pull the pump.

Thanks again for your help. I'm ordering that basin and pump but have a follow-up question regarding whether it needs an air vent or not? The instructions just say "venting can be installed as necessary"? Most of the prepackage systems I explored have both a discharge and air vent so that's why I'm asking? If I need an air vent, I'm wondering if I can simply run 2" pipe back along the 30' or so within the same trench as the waste pipe? I never mentioned this but I had to trench and replace a good portion of the waste pipe as it was broken in sections but it is not possible to replace the entire pipe because it goes under the concrete of the accessory building for about 10' at the last section. Anyway there is an existing 4" vent pipe with a candy cane top for the leaching field next to the accessory building and I was going to tie into that for the new tank vent if that's possible?

 

[Twowaxhack]

You could install a short piece of 2” pvc through the lid and install a 2” trap upside down making a candy cane like you spoke about. You’d need an extra 2” rubber seal to go through the lid.

It’ll probably vent itself through the drain pipe entering the basin of that pipe is vented at your building to open air. The pipe can’t have a belly in it, or it’ll choke off the vent. Better not have a belly if you plan to use it anyway. I might would install it like this without a dedicated vent and see if it works. I’ve done it before……

If I need to clarify any of that just ask and we will talk more…..

 

[Poochi62]

You could install a short piece of 2” pvc through the lid and install a 2” trap upside down making a candy cane like you spoke about. You’d need an extra 2” rubber seal to go through the lid.

It’ll probably vent itself through the drain pipe entering the basin of that pipe is vented at your building to open air. The pipe can’t have a belly in it, or it’ll choke off the vent. Better not have a belly if you plan to use it anyway. I might would install it like this without a dedicated vent and see if it works. I’ve done it before……

If I need to clarify any of that just ask and we will talk more…..

Last question hopefully….is there a shorter version of that tank as 48” is way too tall for my situation. I don’t think Zoeller makes a shorter one with the ability to drill you own holes but does another manufacturer have something shorter? Ideally 36” or 30” would fit better?

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d install the bigger tank. This gives you plenty of depth to fit the pump and have it pump down only to the top of the pump but still allow the basin to hold plenty of water to limit the number of pump cycles. The top 12” of the tank isn’t useable…….you can only fill the basin to the bottom of your inlet. Can’t pump the basin down lower than the top of the pump.

So a 48” basin depth turns into about 2 useable feet of the basin.

That would give you approximately 48 gallons between pump cycles of holding capacity.

 

[Poochi62]

I’d install the bigger tank. This gives you plenty of depth to fit the pump and have it pump down only to the top of the pump but still allow the basin to hold plenty of water to limit the number of pump cycles. The top 12” of the tank isn’t useable…….you can only fill the basin to the bottom of your inlet. Can’t pump the basin down lower than the top of the pump.

So a 48” basin depth turns into about 2 useable feet of the basin.

That would give you approximately 48 gallons between pump cycles of holding capacity.

i get it. Makes sense. Thanks a bunch for the great advice on this!