Septic Inlet too high to connect new line into

[Poochi62]

I have an accessory building that was never finished but does have an existing 3" waste line that was never connected into the current septic tank inlet. It's about 6' short of the septic tank inlet. I know 3" is not code for my region but it is what it is at this point as it's underground for about 30'. Anyway it's about 6" - 8" too low to connect into the existing septic inlet and I'm wondering how to address this? Probably the previous owner didn't know how to solve this problem and that's why it never got connected into the tank?

Is there such a thing as an in-line sewer pump or do I need a sewerage pump system with a holding basin and discharge to get the waste up and into a new Wye connection on the 4" main inlet line and into the septic tank?

 

[GReynolds929]

Why is 3" not to code? What does it serve? Is it feasible to dig up and regrade?

 

[breplum]

Sewer ejector system, probably at the ADU. We only will use duplex system, Liberty Pro series is the way to go.

 

[Poochi62]

Why is 3" not to code? What does it serve? Is it feasible to dig up and regrade?

My plumber says waste lines should be 4”. It serves a 3/4 bath and no, it is not possible to dig up and regrade without tearing up 40’ of patio and concrete which is what I’m trying to avoid.

 

[Poochi62]

Sewer ejector system, probably at the ADU. We only will use duplex system, Liberty Pro series is the way to go.

Can those systems be buried? The Accessory building is 30' away from the tank? If I used one of those systems, can I locate it in the ground 4' from the tank inlet?

 

[Twowaxhack]

How deep is the septic tank buried ? What’s this bathroom going to be used for ? Everyday use ?

 

[Poochi62]

How deep is the septic tank buried ? What’s this bathroom going to be used for ? Everyday use ?

Tank is only 1' deep and inlet is 2' deep. Occasional use for this bathroom, not heavy use.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Do you have 120v available at the tank to operate a pump ?

What’s your budget ? Do you want the economy package ( minimum ) or to you want a higher end system. The higher end system is going to last longer is the main difference.

 

[Poochi62]

Do you have 120v available at the tank to operate a pump ?

I don't but running electric service to it is the least of my worries. Underground electric conduit to the spot would be pretty easy if I could bury one of these sewer ejector systems 4' from the tank. If I cannot bury it, could I put the pump system in the accessory building 30' away from the tank and it could pump it that distance and then up the extra 6" at the inlet?

 

[Poochi62]

Do you have 120v available at the tank to operate a pump ?

What’s your budget ? Do you want the economy package ( minimum ) or to you want a higher end system. The higher end system is going to last longer is the main difference.

Probably my budget is no more than $2500 otherwise I would just go with a temporary 250 gallon holding tank that I would periodically have pumped although that isn't going to be up to code. Probably would consider all options of cost.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Ok, I suggest these products and I’ll have to edit this post to add more items so give me a minute to complete the list, I’m on an iPhone.

https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoe...MIuK3YpJWihgMVsm5_AB2QMAdDEAQYASABEgJoIPD_BwE

This tank lets you custom drill the inlet, outlet and power cord holes. It’s deep enough to allow the tank lid to be an inch or two above the ground and still have a deep enough basin to hold plenty of water, never letting the water pump down below the top of the pump.

You’ll have to check if your climate will allow this. I live way down south so tanks freezing isn’t an issue.

Here’s the pump. It needs a control box to control it, that’s coming next.
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-267-0002-Sewage-Pump/p13782.html

 

[Twowaxhack]

Here’s the control box and the instructions on how it hooks up with illustrations. You’ll still need 2- floats switches. Normally I use 3 float switches but you’ll do fine with yours with 2 because we really don’t want to pump a lot of water into your septic tank at once anyway. Having a separate on/off floats allow you to pump more water out of your basin than one float switch, but you don’t need to worry about that, that’s not our objective here. If you were pumping to a city sewer it would be better as you’d have less pump cycles.
https://www.tank-depot.com/ez-serie...MIueeF75mihgMVfjbUAR3zvg7eEAQYAiABEgJr6vD_BwE

https://sjerhombus.wpenginepowered.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/1025424E-EZP8.5x11.pdf

Float switches coming next.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Here’s the level control float switch
https://www.septicsolutions.com/sep...pump-float-switch-with-15-cord-piggyback-plug

Here’s the high water alarm float.
https://www.septicsolutions.com/sep...rol-duty-mechanical-float-switch-with-10-cord

 

[Twowaxhack]

Now you can do this cheaper by just buying a sewage pump that has a float switch built on. You don’t have to have high water alarm either.

This would save the cost of :
Both float switches
Control panel

But whatever you decide I would buy the nice basin that you still custom holes in the locations you want. You might could find it from a local supplier cheaper than ordering it.

 

[Poochi62]

Here’s the level control float switch
https://www.septicsolutions.com/sep...pump-float-switch-with-15-cord-piggyback-plug

Here’s the high water alarm float.
https://www.septicsolutions.com/sep...rol-duty-mechanical-float-switch-with-10-cord

Wow! This seems logical to me but I never could have known to buy all this stuff. Thanks a bunch! As far as the piping, I have 3" PVC coming in so I assume to just adapt that to the 4" to connect to the basin? Then for the discharge, it's okay to reduce down to 2"?

 

[Poochi62]

Now you can do this cheaper buy just buying a sewage pump that has a float switch built on. You don’t have to have high water alarm either.

This would save the cost of :
Both float switches
Control panel

But whatever you decide I would buy the nice basin that you still custom holes in the locations you want. You might could find it from a local supplier cheaper than ordering it.

Yes, I was thinking that as well. Do you have a choice for that option?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Yes, I was thinking that as well. Do you have a choice for that option?

The same pump I listed has an option for the float being built into it.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Here it is :
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-267-0032-Sewage-Pump/p16444.html

Comes with the piggy back float switch separate so all you need is a proper 120v electrical outlet.

 

[Poochi62]

Here it is :
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-267-0032-Sewage-Pump/p16444.html

Comes with the piggy back float switch separate so all you need is a proper 120v electrical outlet.

That’s great advice. I think I’ll go that route. So I just need the basin and that pump along with a back flow check valve right? And I increase my 3” pipe to 4” to connect into the basin then out with 2” is okay? Can’t thank you enough for this help!!! Much appreciated!

 

[Twowaxhack]

That’s correct. I can’t stress enough of how important the basin is. In my area we want the basin about 1” above the ground. This makes servicing it simple as it can be. That’s the only type basin that I’ll use in most of my installs.

You’ll need the float mount that secures on the outlet pipe to set your float level.

You’ll also need a union so you can disconnect and remove the pump from the basin.

You’ll need to leave extra wire so you can also pull the pump.