Safely Removing Input (Cold)

[fizzer]

Good Morning Everyone,
I just replaced my hot water heater and had to install male to male adapters at the intake and output connections. After 5-6 hours, there appeared to be no leaks and I thought all was good. Unfortunately, I found a very small leak where the male-to-male adapter connects to the input (cold) this morning. It's very likely that I did not use enough tape on the joint. My question is, what steps are necessary when disconnecting only the cold input? I would think disconnecting the power, shutting off the main, opening the relief valve and draining 1/8-1/4 of the tank should suffice. I don't want to go through the whole process of flushing the hot and draining the entire thing if I don't have to. Please only answer if you are 100% sure or unsure what I want to do is safe. If I cannot be 100% sure, I'll do the entire process to be safe. Thanks.

 

[Caduceus]

Sorry, fizzer, but nobody can be 100% sure that what you do at home will be safe. There are certain implied risks when dealing with plumbing and as professionals we learn the hard way, sometimes, as to what those risks are. If you open the T&P valve and the water is still hot, you can scald yourself. If there are electrical issues that we can't see how could we know the potential risks? I'm not trying to be rude, but there may not have been any responses to your post because by stating "Please only answer if you are 100% sure or unsure what I want to do is safe." may have scared a few members away from a reply.
So, my reply will be the same as you suggested, "If I cannot be 100% sure, I'll do the entire process to be safe."

 

[havasu]

Well put Cad, I was going to reply but I gots skeered!

 

[fizzer]

Sorry, fizzer, but nobody can be 100% sure that what you do at home will be safe. There are certain implied risks when dealing with plumbing and as professionals we learn the hard way, sometimes, as to what those risks are. If you open the T&P valve and the water is still hot, you can scald yourself. If there are electrical issues that we can't see how could we know the potential risks? I'm not trying to be rude, but there may not have been any responses to your post because by stating "Please only answer if you are 100% sure or unsure what I want to do is safe." may have scared a few members away from a reply.
So, my reply will be the same as you suggested, "If I cannot be 100% sure, I'll do the entire process to be safe."

Cad, I understand what you're saying, though I was asking in a general sense, if my plan "held water" (LOL.) My final comment was meant to ensure someone answered with real knowledge and not theory. I already had the theory, I was simply looking for validation or invalidation. The theory is that I could cut power (so it's no longer heating, thus building pressure), open the relief valve to release any built up pressure (which has a proper drain pipe, so no scalding) and then only partially drain the tank, so there would be no spillage. Thankfully, I asked this question elsewhere and received the answer that my plan is safe. Actually, because the input and output are on the very top, I only had to drain around three gallons and have already completed the repair.

It is not too hard to imagine someone failing to disconnect the power or looking up at the relief valve with no drain pipe and opening the valve, so I can understand your reservations in answering my question. I do appreciate your taking the time to reply.

I hope you and havasu have a happy 4th!