Replacing water filter, seems simple but

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Toodle

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Pittsboro, NC
I bought a house built in 1997. I was going to replace the water filter and I got confused. There is a red gate valve on the input side of the water filter. There is a blue gate valve on the output side of the valve. The output side then feeds water to the hot water heater and into the house, assuming cold water feed.

It seems I would just turn off the red valve; go turn on cold water to drain water from the pipes; turn off blue valve; push down pressure release on the filter housing to release remaining pressure; then replace the filter. But when I turn the red valve off it leaks a pretty steady drip. Then when I go let the water run it never stops. I closed the blue valve anyway. When I press the pressure valve on the water filter housing water streams out and does not stop. I have only left it pressed for about 20 seconds but it does not slow down at all.

I am wondering if the red gate valve is not working? It stops the dripping when I open it back up which seems to indicate the valve is stopping water... not sure?

So... how can I test this? More importantly, how could I turn the water off to my house if I had to? I guess the blue valve would do that? I don’t completely understand the pipes coming into the house. There are two. Both are larger than the normal house pipes. One has a gate valve and then goes into the pressure tank. The other one has a ball valve that is closed. It meets up with the pipe off the pressure tank at a T and then the T goes on to the red gate valve before the water filter ( the one that leaks when it’s open). Not sure what this second line in that is turned off is.

Can I change the filter some other way?
How do I test this valve?
What is the second line coming into the house but not going to 5be pressure tank for?
If I turn off the water at the gate valve coming into the house before the pressure tank, will that turn off water to the house immediately or does the tank have to drain before water stops running? If so, seems like that’s not a good emergency shut off?


Appreciate any advice on figuring this out.
 
FB68A61F-A485-4828-902E-1A920BA62B6F.jpeg FB68A61F-A485-4828-902E-1A920BA62B6F.jpeg DA80EA2F-388D-428E-9E8A-3BDEF4D0FD2F.jpeg FB68A61F-A485-4828-902E-1A920BA62B6F.jpeg It’s hard to get pictures since the water heater is in front of some of the plumbing. Here are a few.
 

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Looks like the red one is the inlet correct? Should be able to turn it off and drain the system to change the filter. If you have several fixtures in the house, could take a bit to drain all the water out. Also, gate valves are notorious for failing. At least all the ones I've dealt with. I steer clear of turning them off if I can avoid it. Do not crank it off real hard, could strip it and then you have more issues.
 
The red gate valve is the inlet (left of the pressure tank). The ball valve to the right of the tank is off. It is a second inlet. Not sure why it’s there.

If I turn off the inlet and open up the faucets until they stop that will drain the pressure tank? Anything I need to do when I turn it back on? I am thinking of replacing the valves on either side of the filter when I do this so it’s quicker next time. Or I might change out the filter unit for one with a built in bypass. Does that make sense?
 
I would like to do it right so it’s simple to change filters. If I drain the system by turning off the water on the source side of the pressure tank I am expecting the pressure tank will empty. Do I need to do anything besides turn the water back in? I’ve never been on a well so I don’t really know how the pressure tank works in that regard?

Thanks.
 
It sounds like the old valves are not holding tight. If you would repipe it like Frodo drew out for you, then you
can turn the two bottom valves off and turn the top one on and you would still have the water on to the house
while you get a new filter and put it on. Doing it this way is the CORRECT way.
 
If you want to do it the correct way. Replace both gate valves to ball valves. Until then. Close both valves push the red relief valve to the top of the filter unit. Replace filter. You only need to hook up a bypass if you don’t want to stop water form continuing into the water heater.
 
It might be worth changing the water filter housing. The ones that I install and the ones that I see most often have a valve on top of the housing to shut off the water to the filter itself, so it does not depend on separate isolation valves. I also prefer the clear housing so that I can see when the filter needs replacing.
The second line that you refer to that you don't know where it goes, could go to an out building or a neighbor's house.
 

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