Replacing Gas Water Heater

[CluelessHomeowner]

I can't see what the threads on that gas valve look like. If the end of the gas valve had regular pipe threads, it is fine to use the rectorseal. If the end of the gas valve had a flared thread, then it is not OK to use rectorseal.

Anyone can change a gas valve. Turn off the gas supply at the meter by moving the arm perpendicular to the gas pipe. Then go back inside and replace the valve. Make all of your connections, and then turn the gas back on.

As far as the drip leg is concerned, I have no idea of Arizona's laws. I, however, would NEVER install without using the drip leg. It catches any junk and any condensation that might come in thru the gas supply. And the cap on the end of the bottom leg provides an easy way to bleed air out of the gas line when needed.

it's just map+ solder and flux ? like with the shut off valve for the cold water line ?


I think it is the flare side...

but i see quite a few people doing the same thing. Should i replace the gas valve instead then ? I wonder if you have to call the gas company if you want to turn off the gas at the meter???

 

[jeffmattero76]

If you want to change the gas valve, you will have to shut off the gas at the meter, as I stated previously. Once you change that valve, you will have to relight th ed pilots (as needed) in your furnace, water heater, and any other gas appliances you have.

In the picture of the fitting, the right side of that fitting is the flared side ( no rectorseal) and the left side is regular pipe threads ( use rectorseal).

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

It looks like the gas valve was screwed on with a wrench instead of solder. I think it's Teflon tape i'm looking at ?

Rectorseal is safe to use with natural gas line right? is this a safety issue that i need to replace the shut off valve to fix the leak instead of using rectorseal ?

 

[jeffmattero76]

I have never seen a gas valve soldered, they are always threaded. In the picture of your valve, the left side of the valve has female threads which connect to the male threads of the pipe. Use rector seal there.

The right side of that valve has male threads that connect to the female threads of the silver fitting. If th those male threads are flared, do not use rectorseal. If they are not flared, it is correct to use rectorseal.

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

I got it now.

It was leaking pretty bad without the pipe sealent
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUjAjMuughs&feature=youtu.be"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUjAjMuughs&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

This was the old water heater
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rXL5UQ9AoY&feature=youtu.be"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rXL5UQ9AoY&feature=youtu.be[/ame]


The owner manual indicates that the gas line length limit is 36". I got a 48" (only available at the local HD store i bought the water heater. Is it ok?

also do i need an expansion tank? Phoenix Arizona area

 

[Mr_David]

Code here for gas flex is 24"

All this talk about tape and dope but maybe I missed it.

The end of that rotor valve is probably already a flared end like in the brass fitting in picture. That steel adapter is not meant to screw onto the flared end of that rotor valve . That's where you're have trouble. If the end of the rotor valve looks like the first photo then get rid of the adapter between the flex and the valve. NO DOPE and NO tape

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

Code here for gas flex is 24"

All this talk about tape and dope but maybe I missed it.

The end of that rotor valve is probably already a flared end like in the brass fitting in picture. That steel adapter is not meant to screw onto the flared end of that rotor valve . That's where you're have trouble. If the end of the rotor valve looks like the first photo then get rid of the adapter between the flex and the valve. NO DOPE and NO tape

Is there a minimum length requirement for the gas line? I think a 12" gas supply line will work just fine for me. M heater's gas port is about 7" away from the gas valve.

The old gas line was the same. That adapter is not removable. I tried.

It looks like i did it wrong by adding pipe sealant to the flare side but without the pipe sealant it will leak

It's better than sorry.. so i'll stop by HomeDepot tomorrow and get a new shut-off valve.

 

[Mr_David]

View attachment IMG_4114.jpgView attachment IMG_4115.jpgView attachment IMG_4116.jpg

So the adapter is stuck in the swivel nut on the flex! Hard to believe it won’t come apart. Then get a new flex. Your video of leak is between the adapter and the valve because it doesn’t belong there. The female end of the adapter is for pipe, not the flared male end on the valve.

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

The original gas line that i removed has the same adapter.

As i stated before it was leaking because of the worn out thread before i added pipe sealant. It's not leaking anymore after i added the sealant. If it's not a safety issue and just blockage then it's no problem then ? since i avoid the first 2 thread of the fitting + there's also an adapter on the line so the sealent didn't get to the flare end ?

This is the part where i'm unsure since the gas connectors will come with this design and some will just come with nuts at both end only


https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-ProCoat-1-2-in-FIP-x-1-2-in-MIP-x-48-in-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Connector-1-2-in-O-D-60-500-BTU-CSSD54-48-X/100193061

I think this guy is doing the it without the adapter
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXfgU4IvxSM&pbjreload=10"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXfgU4IvxSM&pbjreload=10[/ame]

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

is it normal to smell gas when you put your nose right next to the top of the thermostat ? I don't have to be that close when the heater is running though, i can smell gas about 3-4 in away from the top of the thermostat.

i wiped a soapy solution around the top but didn't see any bubble..

 

[jeffmattero76]

is it normal to smell gas when you put your nose right next to the top of the thermostat ? I don't have to be that close when the heater is running though, i can smell gas about 3-4 in away from the top of the thermostat.

i wiped a soapy solution around the top but didn't see any bubble..

First, that is not the thermostat, it is the gas regulator.

Second, you have ignored my advice to come out of that regulator with a black nipple, and then a tee with a drip leg. If you heeded that advice, and the advice of others on this thread, you would remove that adaptor from the regulator and do it correctly. If you are going to ignore the advice given, there is no point in my wasting my time offering any additional advice.

Also, it is NEVER OK to smell gas. If you smell gas, there is a leak somewhere that could potentially be very dangerous if not corrected.

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

First, that is not the thermostat, it is the gas regulator.

Second, you have ignored my advice to come out of that regulator with a black nipple, and then a tee with a drip leg. If you heeded that advice, and the advice of others on this thread, you would remove that adaptor from the regulator and do it correctly. If you are going to ignore the advice given, there is no point in my wasting my time offering any additional advice.

Also, it is NEVER OK to smell gas. If you smell gas, there is a leak somewhere that could potentially be very dangerous if not corrected.

They listed it as thermostat in the manual so....

I ordered a shorter gas connector and doing the soldering as instructed. The sediment trap will take 2 weeks since it's online order item only.

I can't remove the adapter as it is non-removable. I tried it. both the old and new gas lines, I can not remove the adapter when using two wrenches. There's no leak or gas smell at the connection areas but coming from the thermostat unit, it might be a defective part.

 

[jeffmattero76]

They listed it as thermostat in the manual.

I ordered a shorter gas connector and doing the soldering as instructed. The sediment trap will take 2 weeks since it's online order item only.

I can't remove the adapter as it is non-removable. I tried it. both the old and new gas lines. I can not remove the adapter when using two wrenches.

I have always known that as a regulator but, if the manufacturer calls it a thermostat, so be it.

I have no idea what you could possibly be soldering, and, furthermore, I give up.

Good luck, and I sincerely hope that you don't blow up your house by ignoring the direction given.

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

I have always known that as a regulator but, if the manufacturer calls it a thermostat, so be it.

I have no idea what you could possibly be soldering, and, furthermore, I give up.

Good luck, and I sincerely hope that you don't blow up your house by ignoring the direction given.

It's clearly that You didn't read the my posts and the others' post at the beginning of the thread so that's why you didn't get it.

It's hard to follow the direction telling you to remove what is non-removable :/

shorter gas line, soldering method, sediment trap, etc.. I did as instructed. I'll not remove what is non-removable.

 

[voletl]

I find it quite comical for the last couple of days I've been watching you guys Banter back and forth on this stupid gas line.

If you are so unsure or insecure about this gas line and now that you mention that you smell gas you should call a licensed plumber that knows what they're doing. There is no more information any of our members of this form should give you except that.

 

[Mr_David]

That adapter is removable.
What is the second picture with adapter on nipple?
That's not yours.
Threads on a flare fitting DO NOT make the seal.
The tapered end of the fitting makes the seal against the flared tubing inside the swivel nut.

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

I called the gas company to check on the gas smell, I also asked them about a few things

1- 48" gas line is fine. The adapter is also fine
2- expansion tank is not needed
3- sediment trap is not needed

There is a leak within the thermostat unit though. He turned off my gas supply, water heater, tagged the unit and gave me 2 pieces of paper (pink and yellow).

"Gas leak on top of the water heater control valve"

I called Rheem the same day 1800-267-4566 (1/2/2018). I got busy tone and then dropped the first few attempts and on hold for 40+ minutes when the call connected.

It's a lot easier when you have the papers from the gas company since they told me they will send out the new part the next day without having to do a lot of explanation . It's not quite next day though since the part didn't arrive until today (1/5/2018_...

I had to call them back for the installer/contractor information. I called the installer/contractor who stated that he didn't receive the work order :/ It's always something.

I read through the instructions but since it's a new water heater still under the 2 year labor warranty so It might be best to leave it to them for the installation. I don't have to do it myself until i'm into the "7 year limited warranty" period .

This part has multiple names,

Combintation gas control, gas control, gas control valve, thermostat,

 

[CluelessHomeowner]

The contractor stopped by and put in the new thermostat. The guy didn't bother draining the tank and just use the towel method.

He even put Yellow PTFE Tape on the other end...

 

[CT-18]

Not a fan of Teflon on the gas piping like that. If your not careful a piece could block the small gas orifice.

 

[Mr_David]

Techs doing warranty work doesn't mean they're experts. I learned how to fix water heaters by doing warranty work. 1st one I ever worked, on the boss gave me a how to repair pamphlet and said follow the balloons. I have a pamphlet tucked under my leg while I'm fixing a water heater. I had no clue on how to fix. That was 30 yrs ago

Taping a flare connections is done by those who don't know what they are doing.

I agree about the sediment traps. Just a thing that was added to code because somewhere, something happened that cause a heater to fail.
So because that 1 out of 1,000,000 heaters was effected, they made a ruling to protect the other 999,999 that where not.
Same with expansion tanks. ( Just an opinion and number are not substantiated)

And the adapter, same thing. It's not leaking, that's great.
Gas company says it's okay great. Still not the right use of that adapter.

It's good you have your gas leak solved. Enjoy the hot water