Replacing Galvanized pipe with PEX?

[mcintoshmc]

Ok, I really need to replace my galvanized as the water coming out is brown at times, and don't want to hook up a washer and dryer till this is replaced. I was told when purchasing the home, that the rust should flush itself out, but it's been 4 months, and although it isn't as bad as it once was, it's still brown from time to time. I've received a few quotes, and know that I will not be able to pay for this for the foreseeable future, so I'm just going to have to do this myself. I installed my own sprinklers, so I'm going to have to do this. Got a family to think about.

After some research, I've decided to go with PEX, as its easier to install due to less fittings.

What are some crucial things I need to know and worry about?

I know that I will need to differentiate which pipe is cold and hot. How do I do this?

My basic thinking is that I can basically follow the current block diagram, and mimic it with PEX. Is there any flaw to this thinking?

It's a one story home, and I'm not prepared to put holes in my walls, so I'm thinking that I should leave the risers alone for now, and save that for in the event there is a kitchen or bathroom remodel. Will leaving galvanized riser defeat the whole point of this project?

I'm thinking that I can mimic the system without shutting any water off until it is time to connect to the water coming in, and to the risers. Is that the easiest way?

That's all for now, let me know if I missed something? Thanks in advanced!

 

[johnjh2o]

If your going to do a re-pipe replace it all. Don't leave any galvanized pipe in service.

John

 

[stevemachine]

I agree with John. What you could do if you wanted is drill holes through the floor and run new water lines through there. And just leave the old lines in the wall. Assuming you have a basement based on the one story house. Only place that should be copper is off your water heater. Don't do pex off the heater if its gas. There needs to be 6" clearance from the vent if (if its single walled venting) from any combustibles. And just follow hot on the left cold on the right for piping.

 

[Crackplumbers]

Unless all piping is replaced, the contamination within the piping will remain. Running PEX pipe based on the Home Run system, with a distribution PEX header ( individual connection for each supply line) is the answer, this would be one for Cold, and one for Hot. I have run this system by building fails walls or Decorative features to hind the new piping behind. Also the new piping can be run following the holes for the main sewer stack. Once the new system is in place, you will have to disturb the walls at the fixtures to switch there supply sources.

 

[IFIXH20]

I agree with the others about replacing all the water lines -- The other thing comes to mind is rust could be in the water heater -- if fairly new, completely flush water heater and check the anode rod -- if up in age , replace the water heater.

 

[beernbombs]

I just did this with my home plumbing. We were just tired of having to unclog all of the faucet screens, dishwasher and washing machine hoses, etc. PEX was pretty simple to install.

 

[stevemachine]

Pex is super easy to work with. Definitely my preference for water lines

 

[mcintoshmc]

I was out of town. Sorry for the delayed response. What about the strategy of mimicking what's already there prior to making the switch? I don't have a basement, so I'll be in a crawl space. The water heater is in the home, I'm thinking that this will be the best opportunity to move it. Do I even have to remove all of the old galvanized besides the risers? Can't I just run PEX right next to it?

 

[IFIXH20]

Yes you can run your pex next to the old plumbing -- to save more time you bring the risers up in the cabinets below the sinks and floor next to the toilet -- you will have to open the wall at the tub/shower valve

 

[stevemachine]

Yes you can but like ifixh20 said for toilets and cabinets, instead of cutting out the drywall to run your lines, you can drill holes through the floor beside the toilet and in your cabinets to run the lines. That way no cutting drywall besides the shower valve. And it's much easier. Does the crawl space have any risk of freezing up or is it heated by your furnace?

 

[mcintoshmc]

No, I'm in Southern California, so no freezing here. I like the idea of drilling through the floor, but not sound like a complete novice, what do you mean by cabinets?

Someone suggested the home run system, and after doing some research, I really like that setup. So, this what I got so far.

Guest Bathroom
Shower - 1 Hot/1 Cold
Sink - 1 Hot/1 Cold
Toilet - 1 Cold

Washer/Dryer
1 Hot/1 Cold

Kitchen
Sink - 1 Hot/1 Cold
Dishwasher - 1 Hot

Master Bathroom
Shower - 1 Hot/1 Cold
Sink - 1 Hot/1 Cold
Toilet - 1 Cold

Water Heater
1 Hot/1 Cold

Front/Back Yard Spigot
2 cold

TELL ME IF MY THINKING IS CORRECT

I found a 24 port manifold.

1- Blue 3/4 PEX line from water meter to manifold cold water main
2- 1/2 Blue line from manifold to water heater
3- Red line from manifold hot water main to water heater
4- Then 1/2 red and blue lines from manifold to each fixture

QUESTIONS??

1) Based on what I described, 3/4 will be coming in from the meter, but 1/2 to the water heater, yet it will be 3/4 from the water heater to the manifold. Doesn't make sense to me. Can you explain?

2) There will be ball valves for each port, where do people normally place the manifold, so it is accessible?

3) Did I miss anything?

 

[mcintoshmc]

Ok, I get the cabinet reference. My guess bathroom doesn't have a cabinet, so I wasn't thinking...