rear discharge toilet install

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analogmusicman

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see pic. how do I proceed to install a rear discharge toilet on that stack?

tnx,

waste.jpg
 

frodo

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what is that stack? waste ? vent ? storm drain ?

you need to know before you procede


what kind of toilet?

carrier wall hung?

spiget outlet? flanged outlet?


post a picture of your terlet. or link to the one you are going to install.


is that pipe a 3'' pipe?



top of bowl height is 17'' regular toilet or 19'' for handicap

you need to look at your toilet for demisions to the center of the drain outlet.

then...install a tee on that pipe at the height you have determined you want the top of bowl to be.

depending on model of toilet...6'' or 8'' off floor to center line drain



from the side wall, you need to be 18'' from wall to center of pipe

your picture. looks like your pipe is in a corner?

back up and give another pic.

1430075638717.jpg
 
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analogmusicman

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the stack is a "waste stack" (carries waste from the toilet upstairs and washing machine)
haven't bought a toilet yet,want to be sure of what I need first.
I have read that most all "rear discharge" toilets have a 4" rough in. (height of the toilet's discharge opening) which will be a problem since the top of the "bell" on the cast iron pipe going into the floor is about 5 1/2" from the floor. sounds like I'm going to be busting concrete,huh?

tnx,
 

frodo

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if that pipe is the waste pipe from upstairs you have more work than you realize.

that pipe is a waste pipe...you can not add a toilet to it as it is.

you will have to add a wye..and vent. i have seen your situation before..horse stables

they built he floor up.[just a thought]


see drawing, on waste and vent

1430075638717.jpg
 
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analogmusicman

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yes "Frodo",I realize it won't be easy!:) don't forget,this will be a half bath and of course a sink will be included too. a plumber who gave me a price (DIY is a whole lot cheaper! :D ) awhile back didn't see a problem with putting a toilet on that stack. he also told me that an "air admittance valve" under the sink would take care of the venting for both the sink and the toilet.
I am now considering a "carrier wall mount" toilet because the input into the stack just wouldn't work with a regular "rear discharge" toilet that has a "rough in" of 4" (the "bell" of that cast pipe is 5.5" from the floor)

tnx,
 

frodo

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find/ locate a 4'' dwv street san tee

then...you can install that tee, into the hub.
ONLY
IF...you use a tyler ez tite gasket...and you still might have to sand off a couple thousands off the tee. TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT!!!!!

that would lift the outlet to approx...[with out measuring] 9'' floor to center

you can take off another 4'' if you cut the hub off the cast, and use a band
to connect street tee to pipe..

http://screencast.com/t/SXctwKQHe

1430075638717.jpg
 

analogmusicman

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hmmm...I think I'm getting the picture "Frodo". you say I can cut off the "bell" on the cast iron pipe going into the floor and using a "sleeve" connect the cast pipe to the tee.? that sounds good since I believe there should be a bit of a slope from the toilet outlet to the stack. now,I'll need to connect the waste pipe (2"?) from the sink,so where should that go? (that waste pipe will also have the venting. (an "AAV" under the sink)

tnx,
 

frodo

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yes, cut the hub off, install a street san tee to connect pvc to cast. use a cast x plastic band


IF..you are using a carrier. the carrier will have a vent. opening.

attach 2'' pipe to vent opening, install a tee for the lav.. then your avi above the height of counter top

1430075638717.jpg
 
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analogmusicman

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so "Frodo",it looks like you're saying that the "air admittance valve" has to be ABOVE the level of the sink? it should be AFTER the "p-trap" for the sink? just want to make sure of these details so everything is hooked up correctly.
 

analogmusicman

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I'm thinking of cutting off the "bell" on that cast pipe going into the floor,cutting the ABS and installing a "Fernco quick tee" (HD).The correct height of the tee off the floor will be gotten by how much of the cast pipe will end up protruding above the floor. sound like a plan?

tnx,
 

Mr_David

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Fernco tee?? Not recommended.

use no-hub cast iron santee and no hub banded coupling.
 

analogmusicman

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I'm thinking of cutting off the "bell" on that cast pipe going into the floor,cutting the ABS and installing a "Fernco quick tee" (HD).The correct height of the tee off the floor will be gotten by how much of the cast pipe will end up protruding above the floor. sound ok?

tnx,
 

analogmusicman

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Not a HD or Lowes but you will probably find at same place you get the wall carrier or any local plumbing supply.

No Hub fitting catalog
thanks for that chart! it tells me that I'm probably going to have to cut off the CI hub maybe an inch below floor level which might not be too easy even with my recip. saw. maybe a "snap cutter" could do it?

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Mr_David

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Don't snap old pipe it. might not survive. I would use a 4 1/2" grinder with a thin metal cut off blade. Use a respirator
. Check this thread on how I cut out a 2" cast iron fitting in a wall. yours will be much easier, but it will give you some ammo to work with.

How to cut out cast iron pipe in wall

Basically you cut a rectangle into the front of the pipe so you can cut through the back side of the pipe.
Be careful you don't drop the pieces down the hole. Stuff a rag into it once you get the first piece out.

001 (100x96).jpg
 
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Mr_David

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Have you figured out what carrier you are going to use. Center of 3" santee branch to bottom of fitting is only 5"

Depending on the how high you want to sit the W.C. your CL of santee branch can be as high as 9 1/2 " but you only need 7" [ 5" + 2" (existing pipe sticking out of floor )]

here are some specs on a Zurn carrier for example only. Don't know what you are planning to use http://content.zurn.com/web_documents/pdfs/installation/C24.pdf
 

analogmusicman

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Have you figured out what carrier you are going to use. Center of 3" santee branch to bottom of fitting is only 5"

Depending on the how high you want to sit the W.C. your CL of santee branch can be as high as 9 1/2 " but you only need 7" [ 5" + 2" (existing pipe sticking out of floor )]

here are some specs on a Zurn carrier for example only. Don't know what you are planning to use http://content.zurn.com/web_documents/pdfs/installation/C24.pdf

I'm going with a regular "rear discharge" toilet made by "Niagara". this will mean chipping the concrete around the CI pipe going into the floor so I can cut that pipe and get a sanitary tee in there and maintain a 4" rough-in. looks like "Charlotte" has an ABS street tee which will do it. it has a spigot on the bottom and hubs at the top and inlet.

tnx,
 

Mr_David

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I'm going with a regular "rear discharge" toilet made by "Niagara". this will mean chipping the concrete around the CI pipe going into the floor so I can cut that pipe and get a sanitary tee in there and maintain a 4" rough-in. looks like "Charlotte" has an ABS street tee which will do it. it has a spigot on the bottom and hubs at the top and inlet.

tnx,
The ABS spigot O.D. is a little different than the cast iron. use a mission or Proflex banded coupling Not a no-hub coupling.

:confused: :confused:

Rear discharge toilet that sits on the floor or wall mounted?
I had presumed you where installing a wall mounted toilet which requires a carrier. carrier price too much for you? So you're thinking maybe going back to floor mounted which requires a 4" CL of flange on wall?
Good luck with your project.
 
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