Pump pipe burst

[Mickuss]

Hi Plumbers

Little help please. See attached pics. The poly pipe drawing from rain water tank pictured has burst 3 times now and repaired 3 times .
The pump draws water from rain water tanks and supplies the whole house.
At first I couldn't make sense of it 1. why there was heat 2. why there was pressure.
Every time I repaired and restarted the pump worked normally.
But now I suspect the pressure cut out is intermittently getting stuck on and heating up the water, and I suspect there must be buried check valves stopping increased pressure back into tanks and that pressure caused by heat can't escape.

Does this sound about right? Any other possibilities anyone can think of?

4 separate plumbers I've spoken to are as baffled as me

 

[Valveman]

The problem is your pumps controller sucks. Those Masscontrol, Presscontrol, Burcam things are also made under several other names. The reason so many pump companies push those controllers is so they get to sell you pumps more often than normal. The reason no pump company pushes a Cycle Stop Valve for control is that they make pumps last a lot longer, and they don't like that.

Anyway, those type controllers use a flow switch that shuts the pump off when there is less than 1/5 GPM flow. Then they have a built in pressure tank that only holds a teaspoon of water. So when you have a leak of less than 1/5 GPM, the pump cycles on and off rapidly until you need a new pump. Also flow switches are not very reliable. It could be the flow switch is just not shutting the pump off and the water is getting hot.

Also doesn't look like you have a check valve on the suction line? If not the Masscontrol thing also has a check valve built in. But this check valve is on the discharge side, not the suction side. So you could be losing prime when the pump shuts off. Then when the pump is called to start it gets hot pretty quickly and melts the pipe.

Any of these things could be the problem.

Now if you want something dependable, get rid of that controller on top of the pump. Put a foot valve in the well or a check valve at the start of the suction pipe. Get a regular pressure tank that holds enough water to keep the pump running for at least 1 minute. (i.e. 15 GPM pump you need a 62 gallon size pressure tank) Or you can use a much smaller regular pressure tank than holds at least 1 gallon of water (4.5 gallon size tank) if you use it with a Cycle Stop Valve. Then a regular pressure switch (30/50 or 40/60) to start and stop the pump will be much more reliable.

What you have is made to sell over and over. A good pump with a PK1A as a control is made to last.

 

[Valveman]

The problem is your pumps controller sucks.

LOL I hope I wasn't too blunt before I had my coffee. Just had it with pump companies. Went to pump schools for decades trying to learn which pumps are best and how to make them last longer. Every pump manufacturer told me their pump was the best because of "blah blah blah". So after I came up with the Cycle Stop Valve I went back to these companies and showed them how to make any pump last longer. Took me several years to find out I had been black listed. They told all their employees that "Cycle Stop Valves make pumps last longer and use smaller pressure tanks. This company makes pumps and pressure tanks. So anyone who mentions a Cycle Stop Valve will be fired immediately." All those years of schooling me on which pump was best and why was just hog wash. They never wanted pumps to last longer. Now they push VFD's and those flow switch controllers like the one in this thread to make pumps last an even shorter amount of time. "Buyer beware." If you fall for what the pump companies are pushing the most, you will be letting the pump companies get a lot more of your money than if you research what other customers find to actually be the best pump and control system.

 

[Mickuss]

LOL I hope I wasn't too blunt before I had my coffee. Just had it with pump companies. Went to pump schools for decades trying to learn which pumps are best and how to make them last longer. Every pump manufacturer told me their pump was the best because of "blah blah blah". So after I came up with the Cycle Stop Valve I went back to these companies and showed them how to make any pump last longer. Took me several years to find out I had been black listed. They told all their employees that "Cycle Stop Valves make pumps last longer and use smaller pressure tanks. This company makes pumps and pressure tanks. So anyone who mentions a Cycle Stop Valve will be fired immediately." All those years of schooling me on which pump was best and why was just hog wash. They never wanted pumps to last longer. Now they push VFD's and those flow switch controllers like the one in this thread to make pumps last an even shorter amount of time. "Buyer beware." If you fall for what the pump companies are pushing the most, you will be letting the pump companies get a lot more of your money than if you research what other customers find to actually be the best pump and control system.

Thanks mate.. all helpful info.
You're are right. You get what you pay for, unfortunately, at least for now thats all I can afford.
Pulled the motor apart and found the diffuser all melted. Replacement parts and new motor control would have cost me a little less than a new complete set with warranty, so...... new motor installed.

FYI Confirmed. Motor control stuck on causing impeller to heat water to boiling point, check valve preventing pressure build up to escape back to tanks causing blow out.

 

[Valveman]

Thanks for letting us know. Expense is a relative term. Would it be less expensive to purchase a $1000US pump and control that would last 30 years, or purchase a $400US pump every 2-4 years? Just saying!