Problem Submersible Well Pump

[wiyakawakan]

I have a submersible well pump that I am about at wits end with. It's a 2-wire, no control box, 1/2 hp pump that was just replaced 1 1/2 years ago and has been out for 1/2-1 year again. Prior to the original failure, that pump has been in service for at least 20 years. I have replaced the pump again, pressure tank, wire from breaker to pump, pressure switch, breaker, submersible wire going down to pump from pressure switch...all has been replaced. It seems to short cycle. Well is about 100 ft deep and hits water just over half way down the shaft. It draws a huge in-rush current when it kicks on (it dims the lights in the house), which is odd considering there is a 2-ton central air unit that doesn't even flicker the lights. When it is turned on it blows air and intermittently pushes water out the faucet inside. It runs for a few moments then shuts off. The pump that I just took out (it was installed within the last 1 1/2 years) showed signs of overheating, it had a stainless case and looked anodized/rainbow. There is 246V and when the in-rush current hits it drops to 216V which is very odd.

I'm an electrician and pretty mechanically inclined, so feel free to lay it on me. The well is on a breaker directly connected to the lugs below the meter and not run through the house panel. I have wondered if it wasn't a power company issue, but one would think the A/C unit would draw the lights down since it is fed through the house panel. So I have since ruled that out.

I do need to pressure test the line to the house for leaks, that is my last straw. But with a faucet open and bleeding air out you would think the pressure switch wouldn't shut the pump off. Is there a low end threshold that will shut the pressure switch off?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[FishScreener]

Where is he backflow valve located? I’ve seen the backflow fail, and he disc break loose. It then took more pressure to move an water. And the pump would short cycle, There was air getting in, which was then pumping though the system.

 

[Valveman]

You probably have a check valve about ground and a leak in the pipe down the well. Remove the check valve above ground and see if the pressure drops when the pump is off and no one is using water.

You didn't say what brand/model the pump is? A three wire with a control box has less inrush current on start up. But the inrush current is not your problem, cycling too much is. A really large pressure tank will slow the cycling, but a CSV will eliminate repetitive cycling and works with a any size tank. 20-30 years is more normal and you just need to fix the cycling problem to make it last that long.

 

[RS]

Are you sure your well is half full of water? It sounds to me like the pump is running dry and sucking air. A submersible pump should never overheat if it is always below the water level.

 

[wiyakawakan]

Where is he backflow valve located? I’ve seen the backflow fail, and he disc break loose. It then took more pressure to move an water. And the pump would short cycle, There was air getting in, which was then pumping though the system.

One in the pump, and one directly on the outlet of the pump. Have tried removing the inline valve and there was no change so I reinstalled as added safety.

 

[wiyakawakan]

Where is he backflow valve located? I’ve seen the backflow fail, and he disc break loose. It then took more pressure to move an water. And the pump would short cycle, There was air getting in, which was then pumping though the system.

That's what I feel to is that air is getting in somehow, it shouldn't take that long to get the full system bled off

 

[wiyakawakan]

You probably have a check valve about ground and a leak in the pipe down the well. Remove the check valve above ground and see if the pressure drops when the pump is off and no one is using water.

You didn't say what brand/model the pump is? A three wire with a control box has less inrush current on start up. But the inrush current is not your problem, cycling too much is. A really large pressure tank will slow the cycling, but a CSV will eliminate repetitive cycling and works with a any size tank. 20-30 years is more normal and you just need to fix the cycling problem to make it last that long.

Check valve is inline directly off the pump, and I'm pretty sure one built in the pump. Don't recall the brand.

 

[wiyakawakan]

Are you sure your well is half full of water? It sounds to me like the pump is running dry and sucking air. A submersible pump should never overheat if it is always below the water level.

That's what I would think to is possibly a dry well, but it gets halfway down the shaft and water starts pushing out of the spool. My well is in the Oglala aquifer, and the other well on the property is just as deep but at a slightly lower elevation. But I don't disagree that they could be in veins and one could be dry. There is a creek below both houses and I would be surprised if the wells are as deep as the creek bed.

 

[Valveman]

One in the pump, and one directly on the outlet of the pump. Have tried removing the inline valve and there was no change so I reinstalled as added safety.

Even if the well is being pumped dry, it should work for a few minutes before the water level pulls down. You would see full amps drop to less than 50% amps as soon as the well pumps off. If you still had air after removing the check valve above ground then it maybe pumping some air. But it usually just loses prime and quits pumping instead of pumping air into the system. Do you still have air without the above ground check valve?

 

[wiyakawakan]

Even if the well is being pumped dry, it should work for a few minutes before the water level pulls down. You would see full amps drop to less than 50% amps as soon as the well pumps off. If you still had air after removing the check valve above ground then it maybe pumping some air. But it usually just loses prime and quits pumping instead of pumping air into the system. Do you still have air without the above ground check valve?

No above ground valve. It is directly on top of the pump 100 ft down. But yes, when I took that one off it was still doing the same thing.

 

[Valveman]

If the only check valve is right on the pump, air is probably from pumping the well too low. An amperage check would show that as amps drop off quickly when the pump has air in it.