Pouring Basin Leak - Is there a seal to replace?
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justin_dewan90
Well-Known Member
So, it's leaking at the pop up assembly?
justin_dewan90
Well-Known Member
Put the stopper down and fill with a little bit of water, be ready for spillage. If it leaks doing this. It wasn't sealed properly around the top of the pop up.
Not a new install. Original construction, water tight for years suddenly leaking. Tried to upload video but no way to. Thinking seal worn out or something. Will upload eventually. Don't know why mp4 would be forbidden.
jeffmattero76
Well-Known Member
It's a simple fix. Go to Home Depot or a plumbing supply store, and buy a pop up assembly, and a tub of plumbers putty. Then follow the instructions in this video.
Jamesplumbing06
Well-Known Member
There ya go. They gotcha. I personally like the popping pop up without the linking rod. The stopper pulls out to a wide open drain to help cleaning out.
Try to buy a brass pop - up instead of a plastic one.
journeyman
the professional
Use silicone instead of putty. Putty dries and cracks
Plumber quoted me $200 maybe 10 cheaper if he uses plastic parts. He said he would have to cut off assembly. Don't know if I can get it off.
jeffmattero76
Well-Known Member
First, I ONLY use plastic for the drains. It doesn't corrode.
Second, a little elbow grease and an hour is all it should take. If you would prefer to spend the $200, that is your decision.
Second, a little elbow grease and an hour is all it should take. If you would prefer to spend the $200, that is your decision.
fixitron
Well-Known Member
Silicone is no more reliable than putty. I have seen many drains sealed with putty that don't leak 30-50 years later. IF the sink is synthetic or stone, such as marble or granite, you have to use silicone, BUT silicone must be left undisturbed for at least 24 hours to allow it to fully cure! It is not so much which you use but how you use it.
OK. Went with the "plumber" for $175 and a good thing b/c it took him maybe an hour and a half to get the plunger to install and to get the trap off which was nearly impossible. So probably worth it this time. My unit was completely corroded and he didn't use any sealant anywhere. I thought it would never be water tight but no leaks I can see as of today. Oh and he wasn't licensed so it pisses me off that I paid that much and he wasn't even a plumber. How do they get away with that?
fixitron
Well-Known Member
I can only speak to my experiences, but a plumbers license does not mean that they can fix things. I am not a licensed plumber or electrician (a license it not required in much of Vermont, unless it is a "public" building or on a public water supply), but I have done a LOT of repairs in the past 30 years. There are licensed plumbers around here that only do new work. There are not a lot of plumbers that are good at troubleshooting and repairing plumbing problems, or are even interested in doing repairs. A recent thread attested to that, when a poster was looking to know how to overhaul an old Delta shower faucet. A local licensed plumber wanted to just change the entire valve for $950. Those valves are easily repaired and a repair kit and labor is less than $100.
Even if they are licensed, doesn't mean that they know how to install fixtures and appliances. Those skills are not usually specifically required to get a plumbers license.
It is getting harder to find young people wanting to enter the trades. So be thankful that the problem was solved and he didn't charge a really exorbitant fee.
Even if they are licensed, doesn't mean that they know how to install fixtures and appliances. Those skills are not usually specifically required to get a plumbers license.
It is getting harder to find young people wanting to enter the trades. So be thankful that the problem was solved and he didn't charge a really exorbitant fee.
You are right. I started calling plumbers at 830 this morning. My first choice and another one I thought would be good couldn't be bothered to show (all booked they said with no urgency whatsoever). The others didn't even return the call. Then after 2 pm I got two bites one local guy that quoted 206 and this guy from a franchise plumber co with a pricing book (rescue rooter). I'm just saying if you are going to charge top dollar or the going rate it should be for an actual plumber. But at least they were willing to negotiate a little b/c I offered 150 and they took 175. So no regrets just next time I'll know to find a good plumbing handyman. It's a shame about the trades. Those are good jobs for young people. But apparently a license is optional anymore. Anyway thanks for all your comments and help.
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Jamesplumbing06
Well-Known Member
Woooo. Just because someone ever shows up with a lisence doesn’t mean they know what they doing. I knew what I was doing long before I ever let the state keep track of me. The good ones “get away with it” because there is never a complaint. And they take care of their customers. Why is he worth less then the high school drop out that works under someone’s license? And in the effort of admitting that plumbing eventually tears up. I cuss every jack leg that ever used caulk on a pop up. You know how hard it is to remove the flange once the brass corrodes below?. At least plastic comes out. Most homes change faucets every 10-15 years because they want too. So I need that pop up replaced in 20 minutes. No time to break 10 year old caulk then try to remove the rest. I just wasted an hour because someone doesn’t know how to putty. Then my freaking green horns grand daddy use to be a plumber. Now he put caulk on pop up, forgot to tell them to wait. Then I had to go back and completely replace drain to main because the caulk washed down drain first time customer used it. This is new work vs service. They aren’t the same. 1970’s era plumbing mixing with modern plumbing. Some stick with the 70’s some only know how to read instructions. Very few can adapt to both. Ok I get off my caulk box before someone says they caulk kitchen basket strainers. That’s even harder to get clean for a new one. Sry I rambled.
If you buy a lavatory faucet at the box store it usually comes with a plastic popup that I consider junk. If you buy one at a
good plumbing supply house they come chrome over brass. Brass over plastic is the way I like to go. At least when I'm done
installing it with PUDDY I know its not going to leak....... Also when you are a licensed plumber there are things that you are aloud to do in the trade that a handyman is not aloud according to the Health Dept.
good plumbing supply house they come chrome over brass. Brass over plastic is the way I like to go. At least when I'm done
installing it with PUDDY I know its not going to leak....... Also when you are a licensed plumber there are things that you are aloud to do in the trade that a handyman is not aloud according to the Health Dept.
jeffmattero76
Well-Known Member
Tom - when you say you prefer brass, I am assuming that you are talking about the tailpiece. From that point, do you use metal trap or plastic? I far prefer plastic since it will not corrode. I have seen far too many metal traps corrode and leak out of the bottom of the U bend.
Hi Jeff, I am talking about the pop up assembly with the metal threaded tail piece. From there I go plastic trap and etc. I have
to much trouble with the plastic pop up's from the box stores. If I have to put one in I feel lucky if I get one that doesn't leak.
to much trouble with the plastic pop up's from the box stores. If I have to put one in I feel lucky if I get one that doesn't leak.
