Outside faucet leaks

[bgreen]

My outside faucet leaks around the stem. It is 45 years old and needs to be replaced. Graphite valve packing doesn't work. Since the basement is finished, it is nearly impossible to unsolder the old pipe from the inside and it is inaccessible from the outside. If I could buy a new faucet identical to the old one, I could just replace the stem, using the old faucet body with no need to solder any pipes. I can't find an exact replacement. Does anyone have any suggesstions about how I could find one?

 

[rosky]

A picture would probably be helpful. Good luck!

 

[bgreen]

A picture is a good idea. Thanks.
Pictures attached.

 

[rosky]

I'll take a crack at this one. I am NOT a plumber (so please forgive me if I'm incorrect) I just fix a lot of crap on my 23 yr old house...plus I just dealt with this very thing.
First, are you sure it's soldered? From the pic it looks like there's a flat spot on it for a wrench to grip. I had to to heat mine with a propane torch, then put a wrench on it and it came right off...just a thought.
Second, if it won't come of off for complete replacement, it looks as if you are missing a rubber grommet on the bell shaped thing about 1 in from the bottom of the assembly (theres a groove for it). I hope that helped.

 

[Mr_David]

First, are you sure it's soldered? From the pic it looks like there's a flat spot on it for a wrench to grip. I had to to heat mine with a propane torch, then put a wrench on it and it came right off...just a thought.
Second, if it won't come of off for complete replacement, it looks as if you are missing a rubber grommet on the bell shaped thing about 1 in from the bottom of the assembly (theres a groove for it). I hope that helped.

He's probably right about it being threaded. That's called a sill cock and a 99% chance it is screwed on. The back flange is the reason the tell.

But wrong about the groove behind the bib washer cup.
You can replace the stem packing and bib washer. remove the handle if you can. take it to a hardware store and they maybe able to help. sometimes if you can't find the right stem packing you can wrap the stem with packing string.

 

[bgreen]

I tried the torch but still could not budge it with a wrench. With the screws out I can pull the faucet away from the house only about 1/8 inch but enough to see the copper pipe connection. I can see no threads on the pipe so it must be soldered. Thanks for your help.

 

[johnjh2o]

If it's soldered then you will have to cut the line on the inside of the house to replace it. You did say that the basement was finished but you must have some excess to the line to turn it off in the winter or it would have frozen.

John

 

[bgreen]

I do have a small ceiling access opening for reaching the shutoff. I'm hesitant to try to use a torch in this area. Lots of opportunities to set something on fire. I'm thinking of cutting the copper pipe and installing a new faucet and pipe with a sharkbite coupling. Does anyone have experience with sharkbite couplers?

 

[johnjh2o]

That will work. Just be sure the hose-bib is fastened, as the shark bite will allow the hose-bib to turn.

John

 

[AllAces777]

I agree with the sharkbite avenue. I have used quite a bit of them for situations just like this. They are great for non-soldering repairs and work great. I haven't had a sharkbite fail yet. They are a bit pricey so not something to be used for repipes, remodels or construction, but definitely a service mans dream come true.