No water to fixtures

Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So, when the T&P is closed, and the faucets are all open, there is no water or air coming out of any fixture. But with the T&P open and flowing water, air is coming "out" of the faucet? That is weird!

If a proven source of water is connected to the supply pipe of the home, and the master house shutoff valve is open, and all stop valves are opened to each fixture, and all faucets are open, yet there is no flow into the house, then there is either a pluggage in the supply line perhaps caused by a protective plastic cap/plug that wasn't removed before hooking up the water line, or there is a valve or valves closed somewhere in the house.
 
So, when the T&P is closed, and the faucets are all open, there is no water or air coming out of any fixture. But with the T&P open and flowing water, air is coming "out" of the faucet? That is weird!

If a proven source of water is connected to the supply pipe of the home, and the master house shutoff valve is open, and all stop valves are opened to each fixture, and all faucets are open, yet there is no flow into the house, then there is either a pluggage in the supply line perhaps caused by a protective plastic cap/plug that wasn't removed before hooking up the water line, or there is a valve or valves closed somewhere in the house.
See that's the thing I can't find a main shut off anywhere in this house or under the house and the big book I got for the house when I bought it mentions absolutely nothing about it. I think the next step is to crack open the outlets on the tank and see if anything is causing a block age
 
From what you describe, with no flow into your toilet after an initial fill, you have no flow in cold or hot water at your fixtures. Why are you focused on the hot water tank and wanting to crack the outlet on the tank?

Start from the main water connection and trace the cold-water line to the various fixtures. Close the stop valves for the cold water at the fixtures and remove the supply hoses to the fixtures from the stop valves. Open the stop valves and see if you have any flow. If not, something is blocking the flow or there is a hidden valve. If something is blocking the flow in the cold-water line, cracking the outlet on the hot water tank is not going to resolve anything. And why are you saying there are "outlets" on the tank? there should only be one outlet on the water heater.
 
Sounds like someone connected the main water line to the water heater only. This would explain only water to the water heater and no cold water elsewhere.
 
Sounds like someone connected the main water line to the water heater only. This would explain only water to the water heater and no cold water elsewhere.
I noticed the same thing and the picture of the hot water heater has in my opinion a strange connection at the bottom that I think may be the cold water inlet.

Does the book that comes from the manufacturer have details about hooking up plumbing and electric?

I would think that there is some kind of pressure regulating valve after the water supply so you don’t hookup to a source that is much higher than the trailer was designed for
 
In the camper trailer that we had there was a water heater bypass line with a valve, so that when you fill the system with RV ant-freeze in the fall you didn't have to fill the heater, but that shouldn't be the case with your trailer. This problem just doesn't make any sense at all!
 
the picture of the hot water heater has in my opinion a strange connection at the bottom that I think may be the cold water inlet.

I see a (blue) cold water inlet at the bottom of the tank, a red hot water outlet at the top of the tank, and a drain at the bottom front. Nothing unusual.

Obviously, there is a valve or several valves closed somewhere, if there are no commissioning, or a connection documentations, you probably need to reach out to the manufacturer and figure out what is going wrong.

Like others, I don’t understand this thing about the air coming out, can you explain that again?
 
I'm going to be as honest as Abe Lincoln. Something is seriously wrong, and there have been 29 posts on questions and answers, but yet there are still issues. As recommended a page ago, it was recommended to have a professional come in to help you. I agree with this.

I am seriously concerned that someone's recommendation may cause serious injury to you or your family. Remember, we here have no idea of any homeowner's capabilities, and something simple for a professional may end up being an arduous task for the normal layman.

At this point, as an administrator, I'd really want to lock this thread, but we all want to know the final outcome of what was done to correct this quagmire. For this reason, I will leave this thread open, however I'm begging you to pay a few bucks and have a professional come out and let him go through the system, to make sure something wrong doesn't occur.
 
I should have been more specific that the inlet hose looked odd to me. Not familiar with water supply in that kind of armored casing
Flexible inlet, for ease of installation, especially in tight installations. Also maybe required in earthquake zones?

But clearly the problem isn't anywhere near that picture, when he hooks up the water to the supply, (can you show us pictures of the area near where the incoming water is connected?) he can fill the hot water tank by opening the TP valve, but the water's not getting anywhere else.

Either there's something wrong with the entire house (they didn't build it right?), or the OP doesn't have the instructions on how to connect everything, and he's missing something important, like the proper input port, or the valves that must be opened, or something.
 
Back
Top