New / rural construction Help

[gunr43]

Hey Folks’ I’m new to this group and have a project I’m having a hard time getting good info on. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m having 3 homes built on my property and will need to run water long distances to each home. Each home will have its own water main and line of pipe.

Home 1: 750’ level - 1” water main
Home 2: 2,500’ has some elevation but the site is level with the main - 2” water main (big house with a detached garage that will be plumbed)
Home 3: 3,300’ and a 80’ rise - 2” water main

The static pressure at the main is 90 PSI - it’s right near the city water tower.

I’ll need 6,800’ of 2” and 750’ of 1” which I’ll be burying 3’ underground.

The city water rep suggested coiled HDPE and I have quotes for SDR 11 / PE 3408 and a quote for SDR 11 / PE 4710.

My questions are:
1) am I on the right track with the right type/size of pipe? Is the PE 4710 worth spending more than 3408?

2) what type of fittings should I use in this situation? 1 company suggested NDS Flow Control valves and another suggested AY McDonald or Ford adapters. Compression or barbed couplers with clamps?

Thanks for any help! I know there’s a lot there.

 

[Geofd]

This maybe something that has to be engineered......

 

[GReynolds929]

Lot of info missing. Need total WSFU or GPM for each run. Meter size for each run. The two 1000+ foot runs are longer than the standard sizing tables. Like @Geofd says it most likely needs engineering and pipe, parts will be specified for you to use by the engineer.

 

[FishScreener]

If you use the rolled Poly pipe you will not have many joints. I would recommend fusion joints for everything on the main system. the Fuser machine is available to rent from quite a few places.

Per a manufacturers site:

HDPE 4710 offers many advantages over HDPE 3408, including higher density, reduced slow crack growth, and a higher pressure rating. With its enhanced performance characteristics, HDPE 4710 offers increased durability and lifespan when compared to HDPE 3408.

Personally, for potable lines I would go with the 4710. A consideration is fire response times.

It may be possible to pay for the installation of a larger line by designing for fire flow and installing a fire hydrant. Part of the insurance rate calculations is based on distance to the nearest hydrant. A friend paid for a swimming pool on the hill above his house, by installing a 6-inch line to a hydrant in front of the house, from the "fire tank" (aka swimming pool). Distance to the hydrant dropped from several miles to 200-feet. Two years later after he joined the volunteer fire department, and donated the lot next door to them, to build a new fire house on. The insurance rate really dropped when the response time went down to ten minutes or less. If his house caught on fire, he could run to the firehouse, put on his gear, roll out an engine and hook onto the hydrant he donated, and start fighting the fire.