New Rheem hot water tank

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trooper1954

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Hi all,
Brand new here....just purchased anew hot water tank, but the 3/4inch connection on the top for the cold water is missing, and instead it seems that the cold water connection is at the bottom incorporated into the drain valve??
Is this normal?? It's a rheem 37.5 gallon tank.
Thanks
 
Many water heaters have their inlets at various places on the tank, some for efficiency, some for their personal trademark, and it seems others just to be a pain in the ***. Just to confirm, there should be a cold water inlet stamped adjacent to this inlet, or a blue plastic plug protecting the threads. If so, you will either have to adapt your plumbing to fit this design, or return it and replace it with an exact duplicate water heater for ease of installation.
 
Thanks Havasu...seems odd that the tank has both cold and hot stamped on the top, but only the 3/4 inch threaded connection for the hot is there....the cold just has a blue plastic plug like you said. The literature that came with it says both should be at the top, but the retailer says it should be hooked up at the bottom....hmmmm....now I'm really confused :)
 
I'm wondering if that is a series hot water heater, accidentally placed in the wrong box?
 
Me too....I'm taking the easy option and returning the tank, replacing it with one with both hot and cold connections at the top....and next time I'll open the box before leaving the store :)
 
have picked up a different water heater which has hot and cold connections at the top. My next question is about the t and p valve....the tank came with this NOT attached...and I'm not sure whether I remove the nut shown in the attached photograph to thread it onto? I'm talking about the nut down in the blue plastic ring?
Any help would be appreciated.

DSCF0027.jpg
 
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Looks like the t and p goes inbetween the hot and cold. Usually you have a place for the t and p on the top of the tank and a capped off auxiliary port on the side of the tank. looks like the blue ring might be the anode?
 
I would also recommend not having those ball valves threaded to the top off the heater like that. You will have to shut the main off if you ever wanted to swap it out again. You should have unions then ball valves. Unions make for an easy swap. And its code... at least in AZ.
 
I can't understand why you have installed a ball valve on the hot water outlet. it is totally unnecessary. As far as unions, that is for sure but I would add the dielectric type.
 
A good pratice ( in most cases) with threaded pressure fitting ,is to use teflon tape and pipe dope. I would definitely use both with the water heater. Do not use too much teflon tape because it will peel off as you thread the fitting together.
 
Ya that port on the bottem right with the blue plastic is definitly the anode rod. That port in the middle might be an aux for a sensor?
 

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