Need help installing new pipe for tub spout
- Thread starter Ceemee
- Start date
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The spout you currently have is built into the valve possibly only two holes in the tub
You can’t do that.
The new spout can’t be installed like the old one.
Read the instructions that came with the new rough valve.
cliffyk
Well-Known Member
The spout (with some work) could be installed in the same relative location, however a new opening will be required for the valve body...
It might be easier yo replace the valve with a new one-piece unit like this:
I would replace it with the same. I think thats a mobile home faucet. If you put a regular t&s faucet in
you will have to make some changes.
you will have to make some changes.
Oh yeah, you got me on that didn’t ya ?
And it would look like…..well…..you did it.
Have a great day.
cliffyk
Well-Known Member
Yeah, That's what it looks like to me--in a one-piece tub/shower...
If you haven't already purchased the valve, Delta sells various options with the multichoice valves-- one with PEX crimp/cinch, one with Pex expansion, and one with threads so you can thread on fittings. Note it says OR iron pipe threading on the one you linked. You can do what my friend did and twist on a stainless steel or brass pipe and add an elbow at the bottom and extend pipe out. Or you can have an adapter for PEX on the bottom and attach something like this:
That one is expansion PEX but you might be able to find one in crimp/cinch type. You'd have to add a board across to be able to nail the plate in place.
That one is expansion PEX but you might be able to find one in crimp/cinch type. You'd have to add a board across to be able to nail the plate in place.
What changes?
I already have the valve. Would that pipe still work for this:
Attachments
The hot and cold lines are going to be down low, most likely. If you want to raise the diverter from where the current location is your going to need to solder or pex or sharkbite. Do you have an access panel behind that wall with the faucet in it.
Yes I have an access panel. I have the poly to pex connectors for the hot/cold lines. And the pex to run from the valve to shower head
OK, so you have the MtP style (I think that is what its called). If you're using pex you will get FtP to PEX (whatever type of PEX you are getting-- there's the expansion or the cinch/crimp kind). I think they might sell those stub-ins with pex cinch type but am not certain. So you get the adapters and thread them on to the valve and then you run the PEX however long you need it to be (I believe the multichoice valve has a max of 18" length from center of valve to center of tub spout). Aha! https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-2-in-x-Copper-PEX-Stub-Out-Crimp-Fitting/1002859070
So you get the crimp or cinch rings (I personally prefer cinch), the PEX, and these adapters https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...s-PEX-Female-Adapter-Crimp-Fitting/1000182929.
Ok, I see it is fnpt female national pipe thread & mnpt is male. If you don't want to mess around with making bends (which I use 3/4" conduit elbows for) you can get https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-2-in-PEX-x-1-2-in-FNPT-Elbow/5001460605
It might be annoying to get the elbow fittings lined up and tightened properly so the conduit can make the bend. even if you cut it in half and strap the pipe in if it doesn't want to slide in. But, its up to you how you want to handle any bends.
You can’t use Pex for the tub spout. Only for the shower riser. If you use pex for the tup spout the fittings are too restrictive and water will flow out the shower head while running water in the tub.
Ah, ok. I'd seen pictures where they used pex for the tub spout. So, maybe some sort of stainless steel pipe as a bridge? My friend used stainless steel pipes with a similar valve. Or maybe a short run of CPVC?
Is there any situation in which copper does not need to be sweated?
Is there any situation in which copper does not need to be sweated?
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There are those shark bite fittings Ive never used them
The push-fit ones, yeah. I wouldn't put it in unless there was an access panel. I used the push-fit ones in areas that we can easily access and used the cinch rings and fittings on the stuff that is harder to access. It might be pricey but They sell threaded stainless steel pipes but they are usually male threaded. A female coupling could be used and then a female elbow. I'm not sure if my friend used a stainless steel straight piece inside the tub spout or not. I have a chopsaw so I can cut metal pipes if need be but not everyone has them. I'm still trying to think of a good solution because I'm in the same boat.
I have the same valve and need to run to a tub spout. I got a copper stub-out that I think has a sharkbite fitting at the top. It doesn't have the square flange but I got a thing that lets me run pipe through and it holds it steady. I think like this: 8" Stub Out Elbow Fittings w/ Copper Tube: 1/2 x 1/2 Stub Out Elbows
Editing because I googled it and saw some suggestions:
1. Use a 3/4″ PEX crimp to 1/2″ FIP adapter at the valve and a 3/4″ PEX crimp to 1/2″ FIP drop-ear elbow to hold the tub spout (with 3/4″ PEX between them, of course).
2. Use the Sharkbite Shower/Tub Installation Kit, which push-connects onto 1/2″ hard copper between the valve and the spout.
The 3/4" one sounds feasible and is cheaper than the kit. The fitting mentioned is https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-dia-Brass-Female-Adapter/5001594517 and drop elbow https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-PEX-Drop-ear-elbow-Crimp-Fitting/1002862024
Alternatively, you could get the 3/4" push fit to 1/2" FNPT adapter and a 3/4" to 1/2" push-fit. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...PT-dia-Female-Adapter-Push-Fitting/1000914758
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...dia-Reducing-Coupling-Push-Fitting/1000182599And then use a copper elbow inside the push fit and secure it with a Holdrite bracket or something.
or use a push-fit reducing elbow. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...-Degree-Reducer-Elbow-Push-Fitting/1000182609
I didn't see the drop ear version of the last one.
Found this video
I have the same valve and need to run to a tub spout. I got a copper stub-out that I think has a sharkbite fitting at the top. It doesn't have the square flange but I got a thing that lets me run pipe through and it holds it steady. I think like this: 8" Stub Out Elbow Fittings w/ Copper Tube: 1/2 x 1/2 Stub Out Elbows
Editing because I googled it and saw some suggestions:
1. Use a 3/4″ PEX crimp to 1/2″ FIP adapter at the valve and a 3/4″ PEX crimp to 1/2″ FIP drop-ear elbow to hold the tub spout (with 3/4″ PEX between them, of course).
2. Use the Sharkbite Shower/Tub Installation Kit, which push-connects onto 1/2″ hard copper between the valve and the spout.
The 3/4" one sounds feasible and is cheaper than the kit. The fitting mentioned is https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-dia-Brass-Female-Adapter/5001594517 and drop elbow https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-PEX-Drop-ear-elbow-Crimp-Fitting/1002862024
Alternatively, you could get the 3/4" push fit to 1/2" FNPT adapter and a 3/4" to 1/2" push-fit. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...PT-dia-Female-Adapter-Push-Fitting/1000914758
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...dia-Reducing-Coupling-Push-Fitting/1000182599And then use a copper elbow inside the push fit and secure it with a Holdrite bracket or something.
or use a push-fit reducing elbow. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...-Degree-Reducer-Elbow-Push-Fitting/1000182609
I didn't see the drop ear version of the last one.
Found this video
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