Looking for a decent adjustable torch head for casual sweating.

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hdtvkeith

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Went to sweat my new valve in and the darn torch head I got for $20 was way too hot. You can see what it did to the wood. You can see the soot that started to get into everything. This is by far the worst sweat job I have every done. I started a the bottom and worked my way up through the 2 elbows and coupling. I put plenty of solder in and it looked liked it wicked up, it got real hot real fast so have to keep moving. Best I can see is solder is in all the joints and the excess dripped out.

Any suggestion on a decent torch head that has decent adjustment to flame, this thing is a mess. I am hoping using tinning flux makes up for any issues this mess is.

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Have you turned on the water????not sure were you started,but I usually start from the bottom that way your pre heating the joints above if youthink it's to hot hold the flame away,when the flux heats up and starts running everywhere wipe it with a clean DRY rag then keep the heat on it start soldering, wipe the excess solder off,
Don't forget most of the plumbers here soldered everyday for a long time,it takes practice to make it look good, after it's cooled down wipe it down again to get anything left I use the turbo torch with mapp gas
 
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I did start from bottom connections. I won’t be turning the water on to this until Saturday and then this is the last connections of my house repipe. My older torch was fine, but solder dripped into last time I used it, so I picked up a new one from Home Depot that had self ignition and it was just like a flame thrower. I know the joints look bad, but I am hopeful the solder wicked up good enough. When I get as close as as I can see they appear decent. I know I used more solder than I should have, but want to make sure as getting the so,dev around the back was tricky. Also with the torch as hot as it was the fitting higher up took barely any flame to melt solder.

I did use tinning flux as a safety net to hope or made up for any of the sloppiness. I am going to get a cap for the shower spout and let these connection stay pressurized for a while.
 
I like to heat it with a low flame if I don’t have good access around the fitting.

This allows for the heat to transfer through the fitting and pipe without over heating it.

Never direct the flame into the joint.
 
I actually heated the fittings mid-fitting trying to keep flame as far away as possible then let solder wick in since the back corner was hard to get I would then pull flame away and touch solder around back. I know I used more so,def than I should hoping enough wicked in even if excess dripped down a bit. My highest respect to people that solder often it is a real skill. Fortunately all the pipes going into and initially out of the valve were fabricated ahead of time and all those joints look great. If was this street elbow to else to coiling that were soldered in place.
 
Your flame was probably 8” long, even if you couldn’t see it.

Those turbo torches, with the small tip the flame is only about 1-2” long and super hot.
 
Yeah it was a long flame and not as focused as my old torch. I should have realized it when. I pre-fabbed the valve as it took no time to heat up the valve.
 

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I read this to learn from the pros about torches and noticed the wood.

To protect wood from fire, keep flames from sneaking in around wallboard joints and nails from getting hot, I spray it with water very well and then put something called an "Insurance Pad" on the wood with thumb tacks.

It's a heat guard sheet. There are now aftermarket ones for much less money than this brand. My house is built with "Grandpa Wood" (well over 100 year old oak) and I haven't charcoaled it yet. They might be worth considering, but ask the experts who are helping you here.
 
When I solder the previous close fitting I used the Oatey flame protector blanket, but it started to burn as the small gap was putting it almost against the pipe. On the main shower there was enough space we actually place a baking pan in front of the wall to prevent flame damage especially since that wall was kerdi board. What I learn in this is this torch had a broad long flame. My old torch was a pencil tip flame so it was more controllable. I also did spray the wood with water before I started, but the darn flame was so broard and hot it burned off that moisture pretty quick. Live and learn as soo as I saw the broad flame I should have stopped and went and gotten another pencil tip torch.
 
when soldering so close to wood i used to have a spray bottle with water and dish soap. I would wet down the wood. also if it did start to burn a quick spray and it stops. I used the same bottle for soap testing gas leaks.
 
If a flame pad won’t fit good, I’ve used a piece of sheet metal to slide behind the pipe before I solder.

What you must watch out for is termite damage that you can’t see.

Termite damage will ignite and rapidly burn. So be careful with a torch in areas you don’t have a good view.
 
The sheet metal is a good idea, I have used a baking pan in the past, should have run to HD and gotten a small piece of sheet metal for this. I was stupid and trying to finish rather than wait another day and get properly prepared.
 
The sheet metal is a good idea, I have used a baking pan in the past, should have run to HD and gotten a small piece of sheet metal for this. I was stupid and trying to finish rather than wait another day and get properly prepared.
I usually use an old piece of vent pipe, slice it up one side and roll it the shape I need.
 
I cleaned up the pipe and connections and hooked it up. I ran water to shower head fine and had a cap in it now for a few hours to make sure these joints hold up. Will try running hot then cold tomorrow to stress them and if all good this project is done.

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