Leakign SEPCO Temp-Rite Shower Diverter Valve

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sborkan

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I have a 15 year-old SEPCO brand Temp-Rite single handle shower valve with a flow diverter that controls the shower water flow intensity (not the temperature).

I removed the escutcheon and the hex screw cap but am unable to remove the (it infinitely turns but does not thread outward.

Is there a special tool or trick for removing the diverter?

I hope to either replace the diverter (about $100 on-line) or replace the rubber o-ring on the diverter (if possible).

The primary problem is that the shower head slowly leaks but main valve appears to work.

Your expert advice is appreciated!

Steve
 

Twowaxhack

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I think it’s a tempress 2 rough valve. Take the trim off and take pics.
I’m not positive however.

EEB9A5B7-036A-4FC6-BA9D-370097F3521C.jpeg
 

sborkan

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I think it’s a tempress 2 rough valve. Take the trim off and take pics.
I’m not positive however.

View attachment 28854
Here is the Sepco Temp Rite valve and diverter exposed. Im not sure how to safely remove the trim ring from the main valve to give you a better view. It may be psosible that the leak is due to the main valve and not the diverter. Thanks for your advice!
 

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JG plumbing

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Can you shine a light into the hole in the wall and see if there are any screws that you need to reach with a screwdriver?
 

sborkan

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Here is the Sepco Temp Rite valve fully exposed; the two visible screw holes are for mounting the face plate. I removed the brass screw, drained the valve but could not easily remove the main valve stem to inspect the rubber washer on the end as a possible cause of the leak (vs a leakign diverter). Please advise. Thanks a million!
 

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JG plumbing

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Looks to me like the set crew comes out and you put a wrench on the bonnet body. See how it's hex shaped?
 

sborkan

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I put a 12 inch open end wrench and pushed pretty hard but could not rotate the bonnet. I agree that it must be the way to remove the main valve stem. Suggestions for loosing it? Liquid wrench? Heat? Bang wrench with hammer? If I damage the water connections inside the wall, I am a cooked goose....
 

JG plumbing

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I like the tap. Let some panther piss soak into it for a while. Then put the wrench on it and tap it around... Not a fan of heat for something like this.
 

JG plumbing

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Also it actually does help to tighten it first... Sometimes that is. Sometimes I get it to tighten first, sometimes I get it to loosen first.
 

sborkan

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Wow! A Symmons Temptrol with a Sepco Temp Rite face plate? I do not have a valve wrench but I do have a large open end and 12 inch pipe wrench. I'll try to both tighten and loosen it after the panther piss does its magic. If it is Temptrol, can I replace the main cartridge or does it have a rubber washer or o-ring that can be replaced? If it still leaks, do I go after the diverter?
 

Twowaxhack

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Many faucet companies do not make their own rough valves. The borrow another manufactured valve then build trim to fit it snd have the design they want.

I’d just buy a rebuild kit for the entire valve. You could possibly just repair what you have when you get it apart.

The valve pictured may be a little different. Your valve may not take the exact same parts.
I’m not sure, I don’t have enough experience with this valve to tell you for sure over the internet. When you get it apart you can tell more.....

Be careful and don’t cut yourself on the raw edge of that tile

You’ll be getting sewn up......wear gloves.
 
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sborkan

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Thanks a million for your advice and pictures. I learnt a lot and now appreciate that I have Symmons Temptrol valve that can be rebuild with online parts (If found the kit). Miracle is that after attempting to loosen the bonnet cap, the cold water leak stopped for the past week. I'll wait until it leaks again (and it will), buy the suggested deep socket, take out my can of panther piss, put on the gloves (suggested by you) and have at it... I can't thank you enough!
 
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