LEAK:What Would You Do?

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goof99

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This is the sprinkler manifold for my backyard watering system. I know it looks like a prostitutes dream but it functions perfectly, I can easily R&R the valves, it is compact and resides under a good looking cover. I built it in 1982 and it is still good.

About 30 years ago it sprung a leak I wasn’t able to fix or stop. One of the fittings cracked. Because of the geometry I can’t replace that fitting. I installed a hose clamp on that fitting and squose it down tight which slowed the leak to a drip. So it drips 24/7/365.

There is a hairline split in that fitting that leaks water under pressure (about 70 psia) but you can’t see the crack. Can’t even find it w/o the pressure on. There isn’t room enough to cut the pipe and install a new fitting. It seems that with the fitting leaking as in the pic, the inserted pipe; a. might not be properly bottomed in the fitting b. was not cemented properly or c. the inserted pipe has a longitudinal crack.

When I installed this system in one of the transverse pipes across the lawn leaked and it had longitudinal cracks about 10 feet long. So the stub I used here may have that problem. Kind of far out maybe but a possibility.

I have thought of the following solutions:
1. V-out the crack and fill it with Plast-aid. Hard to V-out a crack you can’t see.
2. Clean up the surface of the fitting then lay Plast-aid over.
3. Cut a short piece of PVC pipe lengthwise and glue it over the fitting such that it wraps all around MANIFOLD.jpgLEAK.jpgVIEW.jpgthe fitting. Gotta work fast. Is there a slow PVC cement? Reinforce with the hose clamp.

Will any of these fixes work??? Any better ideas??????

The last thing I want to do is rebuild that manifold. I was 47 YO when I built it in 1982- you do the math. I’m still capable, always been a good mechanic and fixer upper, got all the tools etc but I’ll tell you age takes its toll and you lose your desire to tear into something and fix it.
 
If the leak is on the male adapter I would cut between the adapter and the 90° and drill out the 90° with a PVC ram bit:it wi clean out the pipe from the fitting and you can start there
 
THANKYOU!!!!!
I had no idea there was such a tool. With that tool I believe I could:
1. Undo all 6 unions and take the end of the manifold off. Never Thought of that before.
2. Remove the female end of the union from the leaking male adaptor.
3. Then cut off the adaptor between it and the 90 L
4. Ream out the 90 degree L *
5. Glue in a new pipe with new adaptor. Gotta measure carefully.
6. Reattach the end of the manifold to the assembly.

The reaming could be done relatively accurately on my bench. All these years it never occurred to me that I could remove the entire end of the manifold. Sure helps to have another opinion.

* I now see there are several other ways to remove pipe from fittings (heating etc) so my options are increased. I now do believe I shall succeed. Thanks again. I couldn’t have did it without ya. :)
 
FOLLOWUP


Well I had nothing to lose and lots to gain so I tried patching with Plast-Aid. I made a patch from a piece of PVC pipe shaping it with a heat gun. I plastered mix on the cracked fitting and the inside of the patch, pressed/held it in place then slathered more Plast-aid around the edges and over the top for good measure, let it cure for 2 days. No leak!

Plast-aid says it cures in 15 minutes but 2 days felt better. Their web site showed a PVC pipe sawed part thru then patched then tested with 600 psi and it held. My system has max pressure of 45 or 70 psi , as I recall, so there is hope. They also say this stuff is not intended for a permanent fix but for me it will be temporary till it falls down. :) And it’s outside so a failure would not be fatal.

I Practiced removing pipe sections from fittings with heat but it didn’t work too super very good. Drilling out with a fitting saver seemed best. BUT! All the fitting savers seem to have a drill guide sized for schedule 40 pipe ID and I am 100% positive the pipe I would need to drill out is thin wall (schedule 125? or 1120? - something like that) so the guide would wobble etc. If that got screwed up I’d have to rebuild the whole thing. Not so fine.

Well I’ve learned a lot: fittings can be drilled out or pulled apart with heat and PVC can be patched.
 

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I’ve posted some plastic pipe epoxy made by IPS Corporation. It’s stronger than pvc. You can butt pvc together with this stuff and it’ll hold pressure. Amazing stuff

I did a service call for a guy who built and repaired fiberglass boats.

I found a leaking 4” lead toilet arm. My only option is to replace it......

This Guy used the old pipe left in place as a mold to layer it with fiberglass. That was 30 yrs ago and it’s still working.
 
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