Kitchen Sink Plumbing

[JBeezy33]

Hello all and thanks in advance for the help/info. I am new to the site.

(Pictures Attached)

We got a new sink installed, it’s a really deep one. Therefore we can no longer use the top drain port coming out of the wall, as it’s too close to the sink.
Is it possible to cap the top port and use the bottom port for the drain? It is not connected to anything, it may have been dishwasher drain from previous homeowners.

I assume we would need to open the wallto complete the project?

what are my options here?

thank you all.

 

[MicEd69]

Is the vertical from the bottom P-trap just going up and open or capped? Does it extend above the countertop? Perhaps it was for a portable washing machine?

In any case, if it is a functional drain, yes you could use it for the sink. And you would not need to open up the wall except to confirm the piping behind the wall is properly connected to a drain line and is properly vented. You could even use that existing P-trap if you wanted, which may help if you are putting a garbage disposal in that sink.

 

[Twowaxhack]

If you’re not installing a garbage disposal the top drain will work fine.

If you’re going to use the lower drain you’ll want to cut the ptrap off and use ABS pipe and fittings along with a new ptrap to pipe in the new drain.

You may or may not need to open up the wall. You need at least 3/4” ABS protruding from the wall after you cut the existing ptrap off. You’ll need that 3/4” to connect your new pipe to.

 

[breplum]

That 1-1/2" p-trap should get removed and then if not enough pipe is exposed, using a special ream-out tool (one version is called Ram Bit) so that new stub or trap adapter can be used.
I recommend a plumber be called.

 

[MicEd69]

The installation below is for a double sink, but what would be wrong with replacing the tee in the picture with an elbow and reuse the existing P-trap, assuming a garbage disposal is going to be installed? And if a garbage disposal is not going to be used, what would be the issue, practical speaking or by any code, by using a pair of 45s to get the sink drain to the existing P-trap?

Please educate me on this.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The less pipe between the fixture and the trap is best. Moving the trap would minimize the pipe between the fixture and the trap inlet. It’s good plumbing, regardless of what the code says or doesn’t say.

Some codes prohibit running traps. That’s where the trap isn’t located directly under the fixture outlet.

I don’t particularly like baffle slip joint tees and low connect end outlet kitchen sink wastes like in your pic. I like to pipe it all with sch.40 pvc using directional fittings and connecting to the fixture with tubular flanged tailpieces.

 

[MicEd69]

Thanks for the clarification!

 

[Twowaxhack]

Thanks for the clarification!

I’ll use a running trap where necessary.

There’s a whole apartment complex here with running tub traps. The tub traps are 3’ away from the tubs. I’ve also installed running traps in beach front condos where the concrete construction and reinforcement tension cables didn’t allow for the trap to be placed under the tub.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Where the red is I see a lot of these drains come apart. Sometimes due to the poly washer breaking inside the nut or a poor fit/pipe being cut too short.

Vibration from the disposal can shake it and it drops.
Those flex outlets on the disposals help stop the vibration but doesn’t eliminate it.

Where the yellow is I find the baffle restricts the disposal and you get a clog there. When it clogs is also when a lot of vibration occurs and it can come apart.

I recommend using silicone as pipe dope on those joints. It stops expansion and contraction leaks and stops vibrations from loosening the joints.

If you pour boiling water in the sink I suggest running cold water with it. Metal piping is an option for those that use a lot of boiling water.

 

[MicEd69]

The less pipe between the fixture and the trap is best. Moving the trap would minimize the pipe between the fixture and the trap inlet. It’s good plumbing, regardless of what the code says or doesn’t say.

Some codes prohibit running traps. That’s where the trap isn’t located directly under the fixture outlet.

I don’t particularly like baffle slip joint tees and low connect end outlet kitchen sink wastes like in your pic. I like to pipe it all with sch.40 pvc using directional fittings and connecting to the fixture with tubular flanged tailpieces.

Me too on the dislike of the baffle slip joint tees and low connect end outlet kitchen sink wastes. I just found this picture to show a way to reuse the existing P-trap with a garbage disposal in which that item would not be used. And the possibility of a running trap that may or may not be proper.

 

[breplum]

We abhor the translucent bevel poly washers and toss them.
All the traps around here have orange or blue softer more rubbery beveled s.j. washers, or we buy a few extra to have around.They grip completely.

 

[Twowaxhack]

We abhor the translucent bevel poly washers and toss them.
All the traps around here have orange or blue softer more rubbery beveled s.j. washers, or we buy a few extra to have around.View attachment 35745View attachment 35745They grip completely.

Those are good but you’re still dealing with polypropylene tubing. It’s cheap for a reason……

 

[Twowaxhack]

We abhor the translucent bevel poly washers and toss them.
All the traps around here have orange or blue softer more rubbery beveled s.j. washers, or we buy a few extra to have around.View attachment 35745View attachment 35745They grip completely.

I really wish you would post more. You hanging out with Terry Toto or K60 Rick ?