Is it ok that I did a sink drain this way before I close up with drywall?

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JohnDS

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As you can see, I have a 2" sink drain here. I didn't think much about it until now. Will this drain work properly since I came into the drain pipe horizontally with a sanitary tee?

It drains to the left and pitched ¼" per foot. The verticle pipe to the right is a 2" dry vent that eventually pipes into the 3" main stack.

Thanks.
 

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No, the drain is not correctly plumbed.
You'd know that looking at any illustrative samples on the internet.
 
breplum said:
No, the drain is not correctly plumbed.
You'd know that looking at any illustrative samples on the internet.
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Why search the internet when there are forums for that with built in trolls? Oh wait.....this is a forum, just for that lol.
 
Nope.
Would a loop vent be ok in this situation? Or would that even work?
 
Since everyone has time to type a smarta$$ comment but not a solution, I'll answer my own question for the people who are private messaging me.

One correct way to do this is:

Starting at the stub out, do an immediate left turn street ell into run of a combo fitting. Combo fitting bull end will be pointing verticle. Other run will continue the flow to drain. Verticle will proceed to 6" above flood level rim before turning horizontal.

Let's see if now everyone is so helpful.
 
JohnDS said:
Since everyone has time to type a smarta$$ comment but not a solution, I'll answer my own question for the people who are private messaging me.

One correct way to do this is:

Starting at the stub out, do an immediate left turn street ell into run of a combo fitting. Combo fitting bull end will be pointing verticle. Other run will continue the flow to drain. Verticle will proceed to 6" above flood level rim before turning horizontal.

Let's see if now everyone is so helpful.
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You never asked how to do it. You asked if it would work properly.
 
JohnDS said:
Since everyone has time to type a smarta$$ comment but not a solution, I'll answer my own question for the people who are private messaging me.

One correct way to do this is:

Starting at the stub out, do an immediate left turn street ell into run of a combo fitting. Combo fitting bull end will be pointing verticle. Other run will continue the flow to drain. Verticle will proceed to 6" above flood level rim before turning horizontal.

Let's see if now everyone is so helpful.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure that's the best way to it.

I think I would install a long radius 1 1/2" 90 in your drain line and have it point vertical at the centerline of the existing sanitee. Then install the sanitee on that vertical line close to the 90. The vent will simply come off the top of the sanitee and then routed to the existing 2" vent line at no less than a 45-degree angle.
 
CT18 said:
The problem is that window.
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Yep, I didn't look at the geometry. The drain will need to move to the right in the picture far enough to allow the vent to angle up to the 2" vent line at a 45-degree angle. The sanitee will need to the rotated so that it points pretty much towards the sink drain location. And hopefully the sink cabinet is wide enough to allow the sanitee to move that far. The P-trap arm will be able to makeup to the sanitee connection.
 
I wasn't trying to be snarky. My brain disengaged when I was googling pictures to try to find an example. I know the vent needs to be on the trap arm before the drain goes down. I was trying to figure out the best way to do that. I'm trying to visualize the solution you are suggesting but I think I need to see a diagram.

The trap needs to tie in to the vent with a tee and then go down to the long sweep.

Something like this-- even if you need to get some bends in there to make it happen. I think the drain pipe will have to be lowered, unless you are able to raise the trap more.
1665620328093.png
If the window was more than 6" above the flood level of the sink, you might be able to run the trap arm under the sill and tie in to that vent, but most of those windows are rarely high enough. This is why putting a huge window over a sink and not having it high enough to allow for the vent is a problem. But its's something I see all the time.

I'm no expert but I am wondering if a loop vent (aka island vent) would be ok. Some people might just slap in an AAV and be done with it, but it is best to avoid those when you can have an atmospheric vent.
 
Zanne said:
I wasn't trying to be snarky. My brain disengaged when I was googling pictures to try to find an example. I know the vent needs to be on the trap arm before the drain goes down. I was trying to figure out the best way to do that. I'm trying to visualize the solution you are suggesting but I think I need to see a diagram.

The trap needs to tie in to the vent with a tee and then go down to the long sweep.

Something like this-- even if you need to get some bends in there to make it happen. I think the drain pipe will have to be lowered, unless you are able to raise the trap more.
View attachment 37355
If the window was more than 6" above the flood level of the sink, you might be able to run the trap arm under the sill and tie in to that vent, but most of those windows are rarely high enough. This is why putting a huge window over a sink and not having it high enough to allow for the vent is a problem. But its's something I see all the time.

I'm no expert but I am wondering if a loop vent (aka island vent) would be ok. Some people might just slap in an AAV and be done with it, but it is best to avoid those when you can have an atmospheric vent.
Click to expand...
The following is what I was talking about.

1665634170861.png
 
I think I’d take the vent to the bottom of the 2x4 with two long sweep 90’s with a cleanout in between the two 90’s accessible from under the sink.

I’d change the tee on its side to a combination.

The sink may be roughed in too high to stand a San tee up on a long sweep 90.
 
Twowaxhack said:
I think I’d take the vent to the bottom of the 2x4 with two long sweep 90’s with a cleanout in between the two 90’s accessible from under the sink.

I’d change the tee on its side to a combination.

The sink may be roughed in too high to stand a San tee up on a long sweep 90.
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If the rough-in is too high for a long sweep 90 and a sanitee, why not move the combo closer to the 2" vent and then 45 up to the 2" vent?
 
Browser crashed and I lost my original post I was typing. If that framing is not going to be load-bearing, then the boards should be fine as-is, but if it will be load-bearing you may need to sister up the cripples/studs or put in more blocking above and below the pipes to add stability. I forget the general rule, but if you have a load-bearing wall you cant pierce more than 2 studs without compromising structural integrity (if the diameter of the pipe is more than 50% of the stud's width). But it looks like it's an interior wall to allow plumbing.

Not sure if this will fly with the plumbers, but I'm looking at that diagram and not sure if the 45 will clear the edge of the window and it may conflict with the electrical box. Box might have to be moved. Thus, I'm thinking if you run the trap arm at a 45° and it still lands in the same stud pocket, you can add a 45 bend to run it horizontal through the studs and then either run it all the way to the existing vent pipe and have a tee to go down and keep that long sweep (or use a combo wye with a cleanout on the end), or you can run it the way suggested but add the tee within the adjacent stud pocket (to the right of the current one) and then have 45s to make it meet up with the vent pipe.
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Plumbers, would it be ok to have a 45 bend in the horizontal run of the trap arm before it meets the vent?

Another option is a loop vent. Obviously the drain would go the opposite way after it meets the vent.
1665861177786.png

I am very interested in this solution since I have a similar situation. S-trap under a sink and need to have it vent properly. Going to the right of the window is a problem because it conflicts with electrical in my situation. My options are to run it out of the exterior wall or slap an AAV on it-- and I'm not comfortable with an AAV. So, I've been looking up solutions.

I hope something here works.
 
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