IPC Code Question about Water Heaters

[Angelique]

Our city uses the International Plumbing Code (IPC). I downloaded the city plumbing code document, but it just says they use IPC and lists amendments to the code, and doesn't even mention the phrase "water heater." Hopefully someone here knows this answer. (By the way, our state uses the UPC.)

My husband read that water heater code requires there to be three feet of space in front of the electrical system for the water heater. We've never heard of a water heater closet that is three feet deep -- our current one certainly isn't -- so he is assuming that if you have a door in front of the water heater, and that with the door open, there is at least three feet of space in front of the water heater, that will satisfy the code.

Is this correct?

 

[frodo]

doors are ok, the wording is access, legal wording,

readily accessible, means nothing in front of it
accessible, means you can open a door to get to it

 

[Zanne]

Here is the link to the IPC https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code/ibr/icc.ipc.2012.pdf

 

[KULTULZ]

Please excuse me while I hijack this thread-

frodo

SECTION 503 CONNECTIONS

Can you post this section while you have your rule book out?

There is a call out for INLET/OUTLET connections to be metal and not PEX (or PVC I assume) eighteen inches of length before you transition to PEX, for both electric or gas.

Can you explain this for me...

 

[frodo]

https://www.ppfahome.org/pdf/PEX%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf

I think it has to do with the manufactures recommendation

 

[KULTULZ]

...hmmph...

No rhyme nor reason given.

THANX for looking...

 

[KULTULZ]

WHILE CAROUSING WITH MY BROWSER...

I came across this-

ASTM D-2846-69T-

CPVC is not permitted to direct connect to any water heater. That standard calls for approved metallic piping material to terminate a minimum 18 inches from the water heater.

Also CPVC is also not suitable for temperatures above 180 degrees that instantaneous type (coil or immersion) water heaters can produce.

This is similar to the PEX question above.

I am now wondering... ...if the brittle CPVC I came across during a recent WH replacement was due to the CPVC being connected directly to the WH and the high temps causing the brittleness?

And even more, if a gas WH flue will additionally weaken the CPVC connections that close to the WH?

 

[skelly716]

Frodo has some good answers on this forum I've noticed. I'm a city plumbing & mechanical inspector and water heaters in the IPC (International Plumbing Code), UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code - California) and the CPC (California Plumbing Code have water heaters in chapter 5 typically. Sounds like your in California?
The 3' space is called the "working space" in the plumbing, electrical (NFPA 70 / NEC), mechanical and building codes.
Read Frodos reply regarding "accessible" and "readily accessible" - he hit the nail on the head. I wish Frodo worked in my jurisdiction to make my job easier. Take a look in the manufacturer's installation instructions (little pamphlet that comes with the heater and by state law it has to remain with the unit after installation). See if it reads "accessible" then it s just a matter of opening the door. If it reads "readily accessible" then you can't have a door. That means someone has to be able to just walk up and start working with out the use of tools or ANYTHING to access the electrical panel. Remember the codes are STATE LAWS. Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions to keep your warranty too.
If you're in CA, the seismic straps cannot go over those electrical panels either. Lower strap has to be 4" above the heater controls in the event of an earthquake. Top strap has to be in the top 1/3rd of the tank.
DO NOT reuse the flexible gas connector. Buy a new one that's long enough. If you have to pull it to stretch it's too short and also consider trash if you do that per the connector manufacturer's. Check the manufacture's installation instructions to see if a sediment trap is required (tee with a capped 3" nipple). If you have a water pressure regulator then you also need a thermal expansion tank which also has to be strapped to a wall. Remember...the strapping for the heater and the expansion tank are only if you're in CA.

 

[skelly716]

Dielectric unions at the copper to heater connections are great - Cannot have unlike metals touching and the unions make it easier for the contractor / installer to remove and replace next time.