How well is my softener working?

[jessb_55]

So i bought a house about a year ago and the old softener that was there was dead and filled with a solid block of salt, boy was that fun to get out of the house. Anyway, it became obvious very quickly that our water is very hard and that I would need to replace the softener. So since I had just bought a house and was basically out of money I went with a used one from a couple that had removed it from their house to sell as they had lost their house. I also decided to replace the old Sears Kenmore one with another Kenmore as then I wouldn't have to do any replumbing. Now, looking back I now know that a) wasn't super smart to buy a used one because you really don't know much use they've gotten and b) that Kenmore's water softeners are crap or atleast appear to be. Pretty easy to work on but I've already had to put a lot of money into mine.

So my questions are, howe do I know how well of a job my current softener is doing anyway? I know it's working as the salt levels go down, etc. However the reason I feel like it's not up to par is that I still get white hard water marks in the kitchen stainless sink, also pretty frequent in the she shower. Also on the shower head and kitchen sink aereator I get a red residue, and around the knobs in the bathroom sink they get a brownish buildup from time to time too.

Any advise would be great! Thanks

 

[IFIXH20]

Buy a water analysis test kit from Lowes/Home Depot to test the different levels in your water , Then set your water softner to needed level. Use salt with rust remover in your water softner to help with rust staining.

 

[speedbump]

I'll agree with your opinion of Kenmore products.

If the unit's using salt, that's a good thing. Average salt setting is around 9 to 12 pounds. IFIXH2O said, a test kit will tell you everything you need to know. Test it before and after the softener to see what hardness your dealing with and whether the unit is doing it's job.

That brick of salt you mentioned is from filling the brine tank to the top. Only fill it half way and that shouldn't happen again.

 

[jessb_55]

Hey, so I purchased a water analysis test kit last night and I believe I've gotten to my issue. So even with my water softener I'm still getting very high levels on the Alkalinity test and still between "hard 120 and harder 250" on the hardness test. I believe this also contributes to the fact that I do not like the taste of our water either.

As for the brick of salt you mentioned, that was actually in the previous softener that I removed. I actually haven't had any issues with bridging with this one.


So it appears to me that my current softener isn't doing it's job, wondering if maybe the resin just isn't any good anymore. My question being then will a new softener do the trick or do I have a bigger issue on my hands? I'm looking at buying the Fleck 5600 SXT On Demand 32,000 Grain Water Softener. Any thoughts?

Thanks everyone!

 

[speedbump]

It doesn't sound like it's doing much.

The 5600 metered head is a good head. I recently switched over to the Clack head and like it even better. It's less money also. Before you buy, shop around and get some quotes then send me an IM. I might save you some money. I also used the Autotrol head and have been for over 50 years. They have been bought out and the new outfit can't quit finding ways to cheapen it up and make it less user friendly. So the Clack fits all my needs for all applications. Softening, Iron removal and Carbon filters.

 

[jessb_55]

Hi speedbump, which Clack head do you have? Just wondering if anyone has any feedback or opinions on the Fleck 5600 or Clack head?

Anyone, Anyone?

 

[speedbump]

The Clack head I basically have three. A metered head, a not metered head and a backwash only. I don't have the model numbers in front of me at the moment and have only been using them for a month or so. They have a real good reputation, and are easily repaired.
The Fleck 5600M is a good head. We have used it for many years with very few problems.

 

[jessb_55]

Speedbump, thanks for again for your advice. One last question, how would I go about plumbing for my new softener, as the new softener is going to be a bit taller as far as I can tell. That was the reason I went with a used Kenmore in the begining was so I wouldn't have to do any new plumbing (ive included a pic). And last how do I know what size bypass I need, 3/4 or 1 inch?

thanks much!

 

[jessb_55]

Here's a 2nd pic of the pipes coming down the wall.

 

[speedbump]

That looks like some of my soldering jobs. I was never big on neatness, I just tried to keep them from leaking.

It's 3/4 and that's all you need. You may have to get some advice on how to solder copper if you don't already know. There are lots of topics on that here and on other Forums. Or you can start a new thread on how to connect copper pipes. You will get lots of advice. The biggest trick is not to touch the copper for a while after the soldering is done.

 

[jessb_55]

So I'm going to order a water softener this week and have it narrowed down to the Fleck 5600 Meter Water Softener and the Fleck 5600 SXT On Demand 32,000 Grain Water Softener. There's about a $40 difference, just wondering if it would be better to have the nonelectronic head? Also is the normal resin good enough or is CG8 or C-249 worth the extra money?

Also I picked up some connections tonite. are the bypass valves they come with normally threaded? As I'm wondering if I can use flexible water heater hoses to make my connection.

Here's a pic of the parts I picked up, including the copper fittings I'm going to solder.

 

[speedbump]

I'm not going to advise you on the plumbing part. I'll let some of the Knowledgeable Plumbers here do that.

I would stick with the metered head, it's trouble free. I'm not sure about Fleck's electronics.