I know a decent amount about plumbing, but when it comes to anything electrical, I'm all thumbs. My wife is complaing that there's not enough hot water. I've done basic maintenance on the water heater, replacing an element, among other things. With the breaker off, both elements tested around 13 ohms. Assuming they were tested correctly, can you make the jump to say that both elements and thermostats are working correctly, or is there more testing that needs to be done? I'd like to be done with this job, I've been messing with this heater for over a week now. Thanks for any replies.
How to test elements
- Thread starter drequeen
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turn off the power.
Disconnect the wires from the element.
Use a continuity tester. The setting that beeps when you touch the 2 test leads together.
Test each terminal separately.
one test lead on element terminal and the other lead to tank.
test the other element terminal the same way. one to terminal and the other to tank.
If it beeps then the element is burned out.
If you test both terminals with one test lead to each terminal you should get a beep. This only means you have continuity.
You need a amp meter to properly test an element to see if it is working.
with all the wires reconnected and power turned back on.
If the heater is cold the upper thermostat should be calling for heat.
you should have 220-240 volts with a Volt meter test leads
One on one element terminal and the other test lead on the other element terminal.
Before you do that check voltage at top terminals where the incoming power supply is connected to thermostat.
touching both terminal with a test lead to each one should be 220 to 240
volts.
not all thermostats are wired the same.
upper stat comes on and heats upper half of tank.
when that upper stat is satisfied it switches power to lower stat.
then the lower element will heat until that stat is satisfied, and then shuts off.
The lower stat does most of the work once the tank is hot.
cold water coming in kicks the lower one on first because the hot water rises to the top.
There are plenty of how -to test electric water heaters info already out ther on the net. should be easy to find
Disconnect the wires from the element.
Use a continuity tester. The setting that beeps when you touch the 2 test leads together.
Test each terminal separately.
one test lead on element terminal and the other lead to tank.
test the other element terminal the same way. one to terminal and the other to tank.
If it beeps then the element is burned out.
If you test both terminals with one test lead to each terminal you should get a beep. This only means you have continuity.
You need a amp meter to properly test an element to see if it is working.
with all the wires reconnected and power turned back on.
If the heater is cold the upper thermostat should be calling for heat.
you should have 220-240 volts with a Volt meter test leads
One on one element terminal and the other test lead on the other element terminal.
Before you do that check voltage at top terminals where the incoming power supply is connected to thermostat.
touching both terminal with a test lead to each one should be 220 to 240
volts.
not all thermostats are wired the same.
upper stat comes on and heats upper half of tank.
when that upper stat is satisfied it switches power to lower stat.
then the lower element will heat until that stat is satisfied, and then shuts off.
The lower stat does most of the work once the tank is hot.
cold water coming in kicks the lower one on first because the hot water rises to the top.
There are plenty of how -to test electric water heaters info already out ther on the net. should be easy to find
Last edited:
OK, here goes.
Using a Fluke 335 True RMS Clamp Meter.
Power on,
Top thermostat lead, (black and red wires), tested at 241 volts.
Power on, top element, testing ohms, 13, solid beep.
Power on, lower element, ohms, 0.0, beeping. (One of the elements was on, shower was running, if that matters).
Power on, one lead to one element, other lead to other element, ohms ranged from 0.0 to 1.7 (tested several times).
Power off
Top thermostat power (black and red wires) tested at 0.0 volts
Top element, ohms, 12.0, solid beep
Lower element, ohms, 12.8, solid beep
One element to another, ohms, 12.6, solid beep
Anything that can be engendered from all these numbers? Thanks in advance.
Using a Fluke 335 True RMS Clamp Meter.
Power on,
Top thermostat lead, (black and red wires), tested at 241 volts.
Power on, top element, testing ohms, 13, solid beep.
Power on, lower element, ohms, 0.0, beeping. (One of the elements was on, shower was running, if that matters).
Power on, one lead to one element, other lead to other element, ohms ranged from 0.0 to 1.7 (tested several times).
Power off
Top thermostat power (black and red wires) tested at 0.0 volts
Top element, ohms, 12.0, solid beep
Lower element, ohms, 12.8, solid beep
One element to another, ohms, 12.6, solid beep
Anything that can be engendered from all these numbers? Thanks in advance.
Last edited:
Forget trying to read the ohms.
Doesn't really matter.
you're gonna check fro 3 thing.
Voltage. 241 ACV you have that
continuity of element
what ever it was you were doing with testing ohms between the 2 elements did not make any since.
you have to disconnect the power
disconnect the wires from the element
Like I said before
Disconnect the wires from the element.
Use a continuity tester. The setting that beeps when you touch the 2 test leads together.
Test each terminal separately. on one element at a time
one test lead on element terminal and the other lead to tank.
test the other element terminal the same way. one to terminal and the other to tank.
If it beeps then the element is burned out.
If you test both terminals with one test lead to each terminal you should get a beep. This only means you have continuity.
You need a amp meter to properly test an element to see if it is working.
amperage. wires reconnected to element
power on and the element has to be heating.
There is wattage of element on head of element. usually 4500 W
divide that by volts 240 = 18.7 amps
set meter to amps
clamp the meter jaws around only one of the 2 wires going to the element that is cooking water. has to be cooking. should be around 18 amps.
Element is working.
test the bottom one first.
Then run water until the upper 1/2 of tank starts to get cold and that element turns on. should also be about 18 amps.
Doesn't really matter.
you're gonna check fro 3 thing.
Voltage. 241 ACV you have that
continuity of element
what ever it was you were doing with testing ohms between the 2 elements did not make any since.
you have to disconnect the power
disconnect the wires from the element
Like I said before
Disconnect the wires from the element.
Use a continuity tester. The setting that beeps when you touch the 2 test leads together.
Test each terminal separately. on one element at a time
one test lead on element terminal and the other lead to tank.
test the other element terminal the same way. one to terminal and the other to tank.
If it beeps then the element is burned out.
If you test both terminals with one test lead to each terminal you should get a beep. This only means you have continuity.
You need a amp meter to properly test an element to see if it is working.
amperage. wires reconnected to element
power on and the element has to be heating.
There is wattage of element on head of element. usually 4500 W
divide that by volts 240 = 18.7 amps
set meter to amps
clamp the meter jaws around only one of the 2 wires going to the element that is cooking water. has to be cooking. should be around 18 amps.
Element is working.
test the bottom one first.
Then run water until the upper 1/2 of tank starts to get cold and that element turns on. should also be about 18 amps.
Last edited:
This might help.
I learned something today.
I have never checked elements using ohms with a multi meter.
after watch a couple videos I guess that is common.
Well I am an uncommon guy, so that makes since.
This is a lot to read through but more technical information if you can get through all the info and pick out what's important.
http://www.hotwater.com/lit/training/320991-000.pdf
I learned something today.
I have never checked elements using ohms with a multi meter.
after watch a couple videos I guess that is common.
Well I am an uncommon guy, so that makes since.
This is a lot to read through but more technical information if you can get through all the info and pick out what's important.
http://www.hotwater.com/lit/training/320991-000.pdf
Thanks, I'll read that soon. I'm at a fancy college dinner surrounded by people in expensive suits and dresses. I couldn't be more out of place. Being electrocuted by my water heater seems like a pleasant option at this point....lol
