How to get drain level with tiles

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amark16

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Hi all
I'm getting ready to do a mud bed for a walk in shower. I bought this square shower drain, but I'm struggling to understand how I can get it to be level with the tiles once installed. The instructions say to fill with mortar up to the top of the drain. If I do this, then obviously the tiles will be sitting above the drain once laid. The only solution I see is to fill with mortar below the drain and allow for the height of the waterproof membrane, adhesive and tiles. In this case, how can I ensure water tightness and no leaks around the drain area? It's a very simple design, with no weep holes. Please see attached photos. The drain comes with an angled piece of metal which I cannot figure out the use of (last photo).

Many thanks!
 

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don't even think about using that.
It is not made for any plumbing drain fitting I've ever seen.
 
I was going to say... how does that even attach to the drain pipe ? Metal to pvc ?
 
Returned it already and went for another option with a 50mm pvc out. It seemed to puzzle anyone I asked. Thanks for the replies, you reinforced my gut feeling
 
Thanks for the replies. I now bought a linear drain which has an integrated trap. This is connected with a 90 degree bend to the drain hole, and after that, built into concrete, is an old, metal p trap, which I really want to avoid to have to remove. I heard that two traps are not "legal" so I'm wandering if this is an issue. I dry fit everything and run a test, and the water seems to drain away fine. But there is an air gap around 10cm total length between the two traps. Am I going to have any issues?
 

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Thanks for the reply. Well, with the trap you see in the linear drain, I don't think it's possible to use a snake anyway. There just isn't any room for the snake to go trough. I'm not even sure if that is a trap anyway. But water does get trapped around that center piece so I'm guessing it is. Apart from the snake, any other issues that might arise? As I said, the total air gap length between the two traps is probably around 10 cm.
 
Thanks for the reply. Well, with the trap you see in the linear drain, I don't think it's possible to use a snake anyway. There just isn't any room for the snake to go trough. I'm not even sure if that is a trap anyway. But water does get trapped around that center piece so I'm guessing it is. Apart from the snake, any other issues that might arise? As I said, the total air gap length between the two traps is probably around 10 cm.
After taking a closer look (photos attached), the center plastic cover is removable which means you can indeed insert a snake there. But by also removing it, this allows the air to escape, essentially creating a vent. So if I were to drill a small hole on top of that plastic cover, I'd be essentially canceling that trap, since air can flow freely. Can I call that problem solved?
 

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Shower pans are always wet, you can never get water to drain properly, plus the constant cleaning of the grout...WHY?
I see your point. We always wanted a tiled shower I guess. I know it has its challenges and disadvantages and that it must be done right, that's why I'm taking my time with it and making sure I think of all the details. Thanks for your input though
 
After seeing how tile shower pans are built, I decided that there are too many ways for them to fail, (YouTube Shower Pan Fails). Grout is not waterproof so you have to plan on water getting below the tile and it gets caught by a membrane built in to the mud bed. The water then goes to weep holes in the drain.

I decided to go with a solid pan. In our old house I got a Corian dealer to build a custom pan and walls. It was all glued together and 100% waterproof. It was easy to keep clean because there was no grout or caulk. It was expensive though.

1702071891329.jpeg

In our current house, I decided to use an off the shelf solid acrylic pan and tiled the walls.

1702072274561.jpeg
The new one was much cheaper and works just as well.

1702075340269.jpeg
 
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