Disclaimer: I am not an expert. I am not an installer or plumber or contractor. I am a homeowner who had a septic tank and leach field system replaced. I'm sharing this info to help people avoid some of my mistakes as well as to better understand the process involved in having this done.
This is just for information for anyone who wants to get a septic system installed or replaced. I am creating this post in case there are people who have questions about this in the future. It will also invite people to add info about various systems if they so desire.
Note: This information is based on my experiences in Louisiana. Each state has different rules and regulations as well as different procedures. So the key is to find out what the rules are for your area first.
I invite others to share their experiences and any information on things that differ from this list.
How To Add or Replace a Septic Sewage System
So you want to build a home in a rural area that will not be able to attach to city sewage OR the septic sewage system in your current home needs to be replaced.
Things you will need:
1. Official paperwork to prove you own the property-- sometimes including an outline of the property size/lines.
2. Sketch of the property with the areas you are considering placing the septic tank and leach field lines.
3. A shovel or post-hole digger (I found the latter to be easier to use)
5. At least five 5 gallon buckets or one 5 gallon bucket and a water hose or supply within reach.
6. Transportation to go to the health inspector's office (if you are unable to correspond with your health inspector via e-mail and he/she requests a face-to-face meeting).
7. The temporary permit which allows you to hire an installer. (Potential installers may ask you for the permit # to make sure that you have permission to have the installation)
8. A list of licensed installers and their contact information.
9. A sketch or detailed drawing of the installer's plans that will need to be approved by the health inspector
10. The full permit for the installation once everything has been approved.
11. At least $3,000 to $4,000 (if not more) to spend on the project.
12. Enough space for large trucks to move around (there may be 3 or 4 or even more trucks needed for the job)
13. A phone (possibly even computer access to send e-mails if you need to correspond with anyone via e-mail)
14. Time and patience. The process can take awhile since you will have to arrange things to work within the schedules of yourself, the inspector, and the installer.
The Steps:
1. Contact your local Department of Health. You can find websites by state at http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/international/relres.html
2. You will need to show proof that you own the property. You can either bring your property title OR you can go to the tax assessor's office that has property information. Get them to print out paperwork affirming your ownership of the property and shows the property lines.
3. Talk to the health inspector to determine if a septic system will be allowed on your property and make sure you know where you want to put the leach field. The health inspector should give you a printout with information on the rules for field lines and explain how to do a percolation test.
3. Arrange for a date to do the percolation test (the inspector will have to come out to inspect it) and have the inspector check it to determine the percolation rate of the soil. It is best to check the weather forecast to ensure that it will not likely be raining on the day of the test. An example of a test is to select the general area in which you are thinking of running the leach field lines and dig about 5 holes that are at least 20ft away from one another. Holes should be at least 8 inches in diameter and at least 24 inches deep (your jurisdiction may have different rules). Pour 5 gallons of water in to each hole (its best to have a 5 gallon bucket near each hole). Note the time of the pour and let the health inspector know. The next day the inspector will come out and check each hole to see if there is still standing water. He/she will measure to see the depth of the water (if any is left). You will need to have 5 gallons of water ready or have a water hose within reach to be able to pour 5 more gallons into each hole. The inspector will check back in about an hour and test the water levels.
5. Wait for the recommendations and permit from the inspector. The inspector will use the data from the perc test and write up some paperwork stating what the perc rate was, the minimum size of the septic tank, and the length of the leach field needed. They will generally give the measurements for a standard pipe and gravel leach field. There are many different types that can be used, but you will have to ask the inspector which ones are allowed in your area. Things that will be taken into consideration will be:
a) Percolation rate of the soil
b) Distance from house (particularly water supply-- it must be at least 50feet from the water well)
c) Distance from edge of property line (it must be a sufficient distance from the edge of the property to avoid contaminating outside property)
d) Type of system being installed (gravel, cloth, infiltrator segments, mechanical system, etc)
6. Select the type of leach line system that would work best for you. You may want an extra effluent reduction system to clean the water. You may want to have a mechanical system that turns the cleaned water into a sprinkler system for your garden. You may just want to have Infiltrator Systems which reduces the overall length required. There are many differnt options and varying costs.
7. Research your options for contractors. Try to find out what you can about your various options. Check the records to see if any of them have violations and talk to local plumbers to find out if they know the installer and what they think. (I had an installer who was recommended but he was booked up and I needed my system replaced asap). Health inspectors are not allowed to recommend any particular contractor, nor are they allowed to advise you to avoid anyone-- however, if you watch his/her microexpressions, you might get some clues. If the inspector flinches when you mention a certain name, you might not want to go with that installer (My local health inspector unintentionally flinched when I mentioned a certain name and my plumber later said that particular installer was awful and to avoid him). Your inspector might have a good poker face so that last method is not a guarantee.
8. Call multiple installers and get estimates. Tell them your location and what the recommendations of the health inspector were. Some of them may ask for the permit number. You may end up with a lot of answering machines or "sorry, we don't go out to your area" or "sorry, we are booked up" so you will need to be patient. Avoid anyone who says they don't have to follow the rules and that try to fast-talk you. Don't go with the absolute cheapest option just because it is the cheapest. Sometimes they will give you a low price and then jack the price up after the install. If possible, get someone who is willing to come out and actually look at the property and check elevation and such prior to installation. There may be a fee involved, or some installers may consider this a cost of doing business and not charge you. Make sure that the installer has experience installing the type of system that you want installed. If you are getting a mechanical system, ask specifically how many mechanical systems he installed before. If it is non-mechanical, ask specifically about that type.
9. If possible get an itemized contract. (In my area, septic tank installers do not do written contracts and they rely on "handshake deals"). You will want to make sure that you are protected if something goes wrong and likewise, the contractor will want to make sure he doesn't get gypped out of payment. Keep in mind that sometimes the price may change if there are unforeseen problems.. Making sure that the elevation is checked ahead of time (before the day of install) is very important because there is a specific slope/incline allowed for the field line. It cannot exceed 12" in height change over 100'. Each field line run cannot exceed 100'. (If 300' is recommended you will need at least 3 separate lines connected via a D-box-- distribution box).
10. Submit plans to the health inspector. Your selected contractor should draw up a plan (it can be a sketch or a detailed drawing depending on your local requirements) that details the location of the septic tank, the location of the lines, what sort of material for the lines, where everything hooks up, and where the field lines will be placed. The inspector will then either reject or approve of the proposal. If it is rejected, the inspector should include notes on what needs to be changed. If approved, you can then proceed.
10. Shortly before the installation is done, the installer will contact the local utility companies (if you have any utilities) and ask them to come out and mark any underground lines (power, gas, cable, water, phone, etc). If you don't have any of these, then nobody will come out and mark anything.
11. If you do not have an existing septic tank and field line, skip to step 13. IF you have an existing septic tank and leach field in place, you will need to make arrangements to have the old septic tank completely drained on the day of the installation. Unless your installer has a permit to suck the sewage or has sublet to someone who regularly does the work, you will need to hire someone to do the job-- it can cost around $240 or more depending on your area. The old tank will have to either be removed, destroyed, or filled in with dirt. If it is filled in with solid waste still there, the solid waste will work its way up to the surface and contaminate the topsoil. If the old tank is removed or destroyed you may be able to have the new tank set in its place. Having the old tank removed and transported off of the property will be more expensive as the installer will have to pay extra disposal fees to authorities.
12. If your existing leach field is in good working condition, you may possibly be able to re-use some of it and add on to it with a D-box. That will have to be determined beforehand. If it is insufficient, done improperly, full, or otherwise unusable you will either have to work around it or just dig it up. The size/length of the trenches will depend on what sort of system you decided to go with. Standard gravel and pipe will require slimmer trenches but of longer lengths. Depending on your perc rate, you may not need the gravel. In some cases you may need a special efluent reducing cloth. Both gravel and cloth can add to the price. Keep in mind that the installers often charge per ft when they have to dig. So if they charge like $5 per linear ft and you need 300ft plus the length for the distance from the tank to the leach field, it will cost at least $1500 just for the digging (its best to see if you can get your contractor to tell you how much is charged per ft). The installer should have a backhoe to make the job go faster and those things are expensive to buy, transport, and maintain (my installer got his cheap for $50k).
13. A hole large enough to fit the new septic tank will need to be dug (if it was not already done so when removing an old tank). This part can be tricky because it has to be a certain size without hitting the groundwater line and it will have to be relatively level. There are different types of tanks and this will affect the way it is installed. My installer did not actually give me a choice on tank as he was using the one patented by his father-in-law. If you have soil with pervasive large tree roots or large rocks it might make it harder to dig. If you have sandy soil it might start to collapse in as they dig.
15. The tank will then be installed. There are plastic tanks, metal tanks, fiberglass tanks, and concrete tanks. (I was not given an option by my contractor as he only worked with the concrete tank patented by his father-in-law). For concrete a large truck with a part that extended off of the back of the truck and powerful winch system was used to set the tank in place and get it level.
16. The lines pipes will all be secured together via PVC cement or whatever medium they use and the inspector will check everything and make sure that it is done properly. He/she will check to make sure that everything is at the proper incline and instruct them to make changes if necessary. This can be a long process as he/she will need to go along and check the elevation all along the length of each field line to make sure that it does not exceed the allowed slope. Once he/she signs off on the job, the installers can then bury everything that needs to be buried, provide the appropriate license and permit paperwork to the inspector-- you may be asked to sign something for finalization, collect payment, and leave.
17. The inspector will generally send the finalized permit in the mail within a few weeks. Keep it with your records in case you ever need work on your system or need to provide it when selling or insuring the home.
18. Make sure you get literature on your particular system to find out about any maintenance/repairs or whatever that may be necessary. Ask about how often you will need to have the tank sucked. Make sure that whoever you hire to do the sewage sucking is known to drain the tanks all the way and especially that they suck out the solid waste. If your guy refuses, either insist that he sucks it all and if he doesn't report him to the health inspector and find a different service. Don't let a sewage sucking guy tell you that it is ok to leave stuff in the tank. It's not, and he/she can get in trouble for not draining it all the way if reported.
19. Enjoy your new system (but be gentle on it-- no flushable wipes, don't use too much antimicrobial soap, no draino, and do make sure that if you use a garbage disposal that you don't just dump food down it that might get stuck in the pipes or not digest/deteriorate quickly).
Some info:
*A percolation test (often referred to as "perc test") is used to determine how well the soil will absorb and distribute water. If your soil does not percolate well, the water will not dissipate quickly enough. In some places this needs to be done by the health inspector or designated person. In others you can do it and the inspector will check it.
*The septic tank must be at least 10' from the house.
*D-box= distribution box. If you need more than 2 runs of leach line, you will need this to equally distribute the water to each line.
*The general incline needed for the field line is 1/4" per ft. The lines cannot be more than 100' each and cannot drop more than 1' in a 100' run.
*Make sure you plan your field line to be in a place that will not be driven over frequently (if possible). You most definetely want to make sure that the sewage sucking truck is not going to drive ove the leach field lines. In some cases, this means you may need to have a run of thick pipe connecting your leach lines. The pipe should be able to be driven over every once in awhile. Certain types of leach lines can be driven over with a tractor or small vehicle so long as it does not compact the soil and you can only have it run across (perpendicular) and not along the run.
*Generally the leach field will be covered in no more than 12" of soil. This is so the soil will not be compacted too much to allow water to pass through it.
*The soil under the leach line should NOT be tamped down and compacted.
*How much does it all cost? It depends on your needs and your area. To have my system completely redone, it was around $3,400 plus the $240 for the drainage of the existing system. In some areas it may cost more-- I've heard quotes of up to $10k in some areas.
*Why go to the tax assessor's office? The tax assessor's office keeps files on who owns what property and what size it is, where it is, what structures are on it, and so forth so they can determine how much property tax to charge.
*Does it cost anything for the permit? It depends on your jurisdiction. In Louisiana there was no fee for the permit.
*Talk to your local plumber and ask about the various potential contractors. If you trust your plumber's judgement, he/she might lead you in the right direction in terms of choosing an installer. Talk to people who used the services of the installers and ask them about their experiences (if you can find anyone).
If anyone has any corrections or additional info, please let me know.
This is just for information for anyone who wants to get a septic system installed or replaced. I am creating this post in case there are people who have questions about this in the future. It will also invite people to add info about various systems if they so desire.
Note: This information is based on my experiences in Louisiana. Each state has different rules and regulations as well as different procedures. So the key is to find out what the rules are for your area first.
I invite others to share their experiences and any information on things that differ from this list.
How To Add or Replace a Septic Sewage System
So you want to build a home in a rural area that will not be able to attach to city sewage OR the septic sewage system in your current home needs to be replaced.
Things you will need:
1. Official paperwork to prove you own the property-- sometimes including an outline of the property size/lines.
2. Sketch of the property with the areas you are considering placing the septic tank and leach field lines.
3. A shovel or post-hole digger (I found the latter to be easier to use)
5. At least five 5 gallon buckets or one 5 gallon bucket and a water hose or supply within reach.
6. Transportation to go to the health inspector's office (if you are unable to correspond with your health inspector via e-mail and he/she requests a face-to-face meeting).
7. The temporary permit which allows you to hire an installer. (Potential installers may ask you for the permit # to make sure that you have permission to have the installation)
8. A list of licensed installers and their contact information.
9. A sketch or detailed drawing of the installer's plans that will need to be approved by the health inspector
10. The full permit for the installation once everything has been approved.
11. At least $3,000 to $4,000 (if not more) to spend on the project.
12. Enough space for large trucks to move around (there may be 3 or 4 or even more trucks needed for the job)
13. A phone (possibly even computer access to send e-mails if you need to correspond with anyone via e-mail)
14. Time and patience. The process can take awhile since you will have to arrange things to work within the schedules of yourself, the inspector, and the installer.
The Steps:
1. Contact your local Department of Health. You can find websites by state at http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/international/relres.html
2. You will need to show proof that you own the property. You can either bring your property title OR you can go to the tax assessor's office that has property information. Get them to print out paperwork affirming your ownership of the property and shows the property lines.
3. Talk to the health inspector to determine if a septic system will be allowed on your property and make sure you know where you want to put the leach field. The health inspector should give you a printout with information on the rules for field lines and explain how to do a percolation test.
3. Arrange for a date to do the percolation test (the inspector will have to come out to inspect it) and have the inspector check it to determine the percolation rate of the soil. It is best to check the weather forecast to ensure that it will not likely be raining on the day of the test. An example of a test is to select the general area in which you are thinking of running the leach field lines and dig about 5 holes that are at least 20ft away from one another. Holes should be at least 8 inches in diameter and at least 24 inches deep (your jurisdiction may have different rules). Pour 5 gallons of water in to each hole (its best to have a 5 gallon bucket near each hole). Note the time of the pour and let the health inspector know. The next day the inspector will come out and check each hole to see if there is still standing water. He/she will measure to see the depth of the water (if any is left). You will need to have 5 gallons of water ready or have a water hose within reach to be able to pour 5 more gallons into each hole. The inspector will check back in about an hour and test the water levels.
5. Wait for the recommendations and permit from the inspector. The inspector will use the data from the perc test and write up some paperwork stating what the perc rate was, the minimum size of the septic tank, and the length of the leach field needed. They will generally give the measurements for a standard pipe and gravel leach field. There are many different types that can be used, but you will have to ask the inspector which ones are allowed in your area. Things that will be taken into consideration will be:
a) Percolation rate of the soil
b) Distance from house (particularly water supply-- it must be at least 50feet from the water well)
c) Distance from edge of property line (it must be a sufficient distance from the edge of the property to avoid contaminating outside property)
d) Type of system being installed (gravel, cloth, infiltrator segments, mechanical system, etc)
6. Select the type of leach line system that would work best for you. You may want an extra effluent reduction system to clean the water. You may want to have a mechanical system that turns the cleaned water into a sprinkler system for your garden. You may just want to have Infiltrator Systems which reduces the overall length required. There are many differnt options and varying costs.
7. Research your options for contractors. Try to find out what you can about your various options. Check the records to see if any of them have violations and talk to local plumbers to find out if they know the installer and what they think. (I had an installer who was recommended but he was booked up and I needed my system replaced asap). Health inspectors are not allowed to recommend any particular contractor, nor are they allowed to advise you to avoid anyone-- however, if you watch his/her microexpressions, you might get some clues. If the inspector flinches when you mention a certain name, you might not want to go with that installer (My local health inspector unintentionally flinched when I mentioned a certain name and my plumber later said that particular installer was awful and to avoid him). Your inspector might have a good poker face so that last method is not a guarantee.
8. Call multiple installers and get estimates. Tell them your location and what the recommendations of the health inspector were. Some of them may ask for the permit number. You may end up with a lot of answering machines or "sorry, we don't go out to your area" or "sorry, we are booked up" so you will need to be patient. Avoid anyone who says they don't have to follow the rules and that try to fast-talk you. Don't go with the absolute cheapest option just because it is the cheapest. Sometimes they will give you a low price and then jack the price up after the install. If possible, get someone who is willing to come out and actually look at the property and check elevation and such prior to installation. There may be a fee involved, or some installers may consider this a cost of doing business and not charge you. Make sure that the installer has experience installing the type of system that you want installed. If you are getting a mechanical system, ask specifically how many mechanical systems he installed before. If it is non-mechanical, ask specifically about that type.
9. If possible get an itemized contract. (In my area, septic tank installers do not do written contracts and they rely on "handshake deals"). You will want to make sure that you are protected if something goes wrong and likewise, the contractor will want to make sure he doesn't get gypped out of payment. Keep in mind that sometimes the price may change if there are unforeseen problems.. Making sure that the elevation is checked ahead of time (before the day of install) is very important because there is a specific slope/incline allowed for the field line. It cannot exceed 12" in height change over 100'. Each field line run cannot exceed 100'. (If 300' is recommended you will need at least 3 separate lines connected via a D-box-- distribution box).
10. Submit plans to the health inspector. Your selected contractor should draw up a plan (it can be a sketch or a detailed drawing depending on your local requirements) that details the location of the septic tank, the location of the lines, what sort of material for the lines, where everything hooks up, and where the field lines will be placed. The inspector will then either reject or approve of the proposal. If it is rejected, the inspector should include notes on what needs to be changed. If approved, you can then proceed.
10. Shortly before the installation is done, the installer will contact the local utility companies (if you have any utilities) and ask them to come out and mark any underground lines (power, gas, cable, water, phone, etc). If you don't have any of these, then nobody will come out and mark anything.
11. If you do not have an existing septic tank and field line, skip to step 13. IF you have an existing septic tank and leach field in place, you will need to make arrangements to have the old septic tank completely drained on the day of the installation. Unless your installer has a permit to suck the sewage or has sublet to someone who regularly does the work, you will need to hire someone to do the job-- it can cost around $240 or more depending on your area. The old tank will have to either be removed, destroyed, or filled in with dirt. If it is filled in with solid waste still there, the solid waste will work its way up to the surface and contaminate the topsoil. If the old tank is removed or destroyed you may be able to have the new tank set in its place. Having the old tank removed and transported off of the property will be more expensive as the installer will have to pay extra disposal fees to authorities.
12. If your existing leach field is in good working condition, you may possibly be able to re-use some of it and add on to it with a D-box. That will have to be determined beforehand. If it is insufficient, done improperly, full, or otherwise unusable you will either have to work around it or just dig it up. The size/length of the trenches will depend on what sort of system you decided to go with. Standard gravel and pipe will require slimmer trenches but of longer lengths. Depending on your perc rate, you may not need the gravel. In some cases you may need a special efluent reducing cloth. Both gravel and cloth can add to the price. Keep in mind that the installers often charge per ft when they have to dig. So if they charge like $5 per linear ft and you need 300ft plus the length for the distance from the tank to the leach field, it will cost at least $1500 just for the digging (its best to see if you can get your contractor to tell you how much is charged per ft). The installer should have a backhoe to make the job go faster and those things are expensive to buy, transport, and maintain (my installer got his cheap for $50k).
13. A hole large enough to fit the new septic tank will need to be dug (if it was not already done so when removing an old tank). This part can be tricky because it has to be a certain size without hitting the groundwater line and it will have to be relatively level. There are different types of tanks and this will affect the way it is installed. My installer did not actually give me a choice on tank as he was using the one patented by his father-in-law. If you have soil with pervasive large tree roots or large rocks it might make it harder to dig. If you have sandy soil it might start to collapse in as they dig.
15. The tank will then be installed. There are plastic tanks, metal tanks, fiberglass tanks, and concrete tanks. (I was not given an option by my contractor as he only worked with the concrete tank patented by his father-in-law). For concrete a large truck with a part that extended off of the back of the truck and powerful winch system was used to set the tank in place and get it level.
16. The lines pipes will all be secured together via PVC cement or whatever medium they use and the inspector will check everything and make sure that it is done properly. He/she will check to make sure that everything is at the proper incline and instruct them to make changes if necessary. This can be a long process as he/she will need to go along and check the elevation all along the length of each field line to make sure that it does not exceed the allowed slope. Once he/she signs off on the job, the installers can then bury everything that needs to be buried, provide the appropriate license and permit paperwork to the inspector-- you may be asked to sign something for finalization, collect payment, and leave.
17. The inspector will generally send the finalized permit in the mail within a few weeks. Keep it with your records in case you ever need work on your system or need to provide it when selling or insuring the home.
18. Make sure you get literature on your particular system to find out about any maintenance/repairs or whatever that may be necessary. Ask about how often you will need to have the tank sucked. Make sure that whoever you hire to do the sewage sucking is known to drain the tanks all the way and especially that they suck out the solid waste. If your guy refuses, either insist that he sucks it all and if he doesn't report him to the health inspector and find a different service. Don't let a sewage sucking guy tell you that it is ok to leave stuff in the tank. It's not, and he/she can get in trouble for not draining it all the way if reported.
19. Enjoy your new system (but be gentle on it-- no flushable wipes, don't use too much antimicrobial soap, no draino, and do make sure that if you use a garbage disposal that you don't just dump food down it that might get stuck in the pipes or not digest/deteriorate quickly).
Some info:
*A percolation test (often referred to as "perc test") is used to determine how well the soil will absorb and distribute water. If your soil does not percolate well, the water will not dissipate quickly enough. In some places this needs to be done by the health inspector or designated person. In others you can do it and the inspector will check it.
*The septic tank must be at least 10' from the house.
*D-box= distribution box. If you need more than 2 runs of leach line, you will need this to equally distribute the water to each line.
*The general incline needed for the field line is 1/4" per ft. The lines cannot be more than 100' each and cannot drop more than 1' in a 100' run.
*Make sure you plan your field line to be in a place that will not be driven over frequently (if possible). You most definetely want to make sure that the sewage sucking truck is not going to drive ove the leach field lines. In some cases, this means you may need to have a run of thick pipe connecting your leach lines. The pipe should be able to be driven over every once in awhile. Certain types of leach lines can be driven over with a tractor or small vehicle so long as it does not compact the soil and you can only have it run across (perpendicular) and not along the run.
*Generally the leach field will be covered in no more than 12" of soil. This is so the soil will not be compacted too much to allow water to pass through it.
*The soil under the leach line should NOT be tamped down and compacted.
*How much does it all cost? It depends on your needs and your area. To have my system completely redone, it was around $3,400 plus the $240 for the drainage of the existing system. In some areas it may cost more-- I've heard quotes of up to $10k in some areas.
*Why go to the tax assessor's office? The tax assessor's office keeps files on who owns what property and what size it is, where it is, what structures are on it, and so forth so they can determine how much property tax to charge.
*Does it cost anything for the permit? It depends on your jurisdiction. In Louisiana there was no fee for the permit.
*Talk to your local plumber and ask about the various potential contractors. If you trust your plumber's judgement, he/she might lead you in the right direction in terms of choosing an installer. Talk to people who used the services of the installers and ask them about their experiences (if you can find anyone).
If anyone has any corrections or additional info, please let me know.
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