Help with pipe plan
- Thread starter plumbstupid
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plumbstupid
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Either one of your new plans will work just fine. It just depends on where you want the main, inside or outside the grade beam. If it's outside, you do need to worry about settling outside the building which could breaking the PVC piping. That's why you would want to sleeve all the openings and I would seriously consider a rather long rubber coupling to connect to the pipe flush with it exiting the grade beam. Having it inside the garage pretty much eliminates that concern as the concrete slab will take all the load.
So, whichever you choose, here's a few things to note.
So, whichever you choose, here's a few things to note.
- The 90 under the toilet doesn't have to be a long radius 90, but I would suggest you use a long radius 90 for the shower, sink, and washer drains.
- All horizontal changes in direction under the slab, I would suggest using 45s.
- Your sketch shows a tee for a vent, but that will not work. The IPC code allows sanitees on their backs for vents, but the UPC requires a combo fitting or a wye fitting with a 45, which ends up looking about the same. With your new layouts, the taller combo fittings should be able to be installed vertically. But if you have an elevation problem, you can rotate them 45 degrees off vertical and put a 45 on them bringing them back to vertical which will reduce the height where the vent comes up through your slab.
- The code requires a 3" vent for a house, but I'm not sure if it's required here. This may be one of those "it depends on the inspector" items. In any case, having only one roof penetration is a good thing. And it would be very easy to choose the best location for a 3" vent, like continuing the toilet vent vertically, increasing it to 3", and then pipe the other 3 fixture vents to that main vent. And note that accessible cleanouts in the vent should be included.
- All drain and vent lines need to have a 1/4" per foot slope. The vent lines need to slope back towards the fixture to which they serve.
plumbstupid
Active Member
FINALLY I have a solution. I'll sit here and ponder the pros of having sewer exit the structure as quickly as possible vs. keeping more of it under the slab before exiting.
I think I'm down to my last question: You mention using a long radius 90 for the shower but don't I need a P trap down there instead? I was going to go with a 2" or even 3" solvent weld P trap (plan on more than one nozzle in this shower).
I think I'm down to my last question: You mention using a long radius 90 for the shower but don't I need a P trap down there instead? I was going to go with a 2" or even 3" solvent weld P trap (plan on more than one nozzle in this shower).
Oops, I didn't mean to include the shower. Definitely it does need a trap under the slab. I'm pretty wordy, if you didn't notice, and I was just trying to get this out to you ASAP and didn't proofread it.
plumbstupid
Active Member
My how far we've come...and how far we had to travel to get here.
So excitedly I started look at my two plan options and then took a look at the slab engineering to find a STINKING grade beam right underneath the shower wall where I was going to put my vent stack. SOOOOO. I've come up with yet another plan that keeps me out of any fittings inside a footer/grade beam.
I've drawn it up and even mocked it up to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Pipe size aside for a minute, does this look okay?
So excitedly I started look at my two plan options and then took a look at the slab engineering to find a STINKING grade beam right underneath the shower wall where I was going to put my vent stack. SOOOOO. I've come up with yet another plan that keeps me out of any fittings inside a footer/grade beam.
I've drawn it up and even mocked it up to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Pipe size aside for a minute, does this look okay?
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By Jove, I think we got it. UPS says the toilet vent needs to be within 6 feet from the toilet, and I don't know your dimensions, but 6 feet is super conservative and the IPC doesn't have such a requirement. You may want to check which is the governing code that you can do probably on your city's website or a call to city hall. I would really expect you are under IPC. So, it looks good to me.
plumbstupid
Active Member
Awesome. I'll measure tomorrow but I think we'll be around 6'3" to vent...and we are IPC. I'm going to email the city inspector just to do my due diligence.
plumbstupid
Active Member
Now for a little detail.
1. Am I crazy for wanting to use a 3" shower drain? I know 2" would handle it no problem, but I'm in Texas where bigger is always better. I get that TOO much bigger can be a problem...
1. Am I crazy for wanting to use a 3" shower drain? I know 2" would handle it no problem, but I'm in Texas where bigger is always better. I get that TOO much bigger can be a problem...
Unless you have a firehose supplying water to your shower, you can't get enough water into the shower that a 2" drain won't take away. LOL. Many older houses still have 1 1/2" drains for their showers. All codes now require 2" drains for showers. A 2" pipe will flow over twice as much water as a 1 1/2" pipe. And a 3 pipe will flow three times the water a 2" pipe will flow. I think the 2" drain the codes call for will be totally fine.
plumbstupid
Active Member
okay. main reason was for being able to tile up to pipe without worrying about getting too close because any drain will fit inside pipe rather than around it...but I'll probably switch to 2" anyway.
plumbstupid
Active Member
Ok, so we're nearing the home stretch.
I spent time this weekend getting the garage plan piped and now the drain comes by the new utility room area.
I could use some help on the green drains (sink and floor drain). Mostly need to find best way to pipe the floor drain so it catches a vent somewhere. Didn't know if I could use sink vent as a wet vent or some other option.
I spent time this weekend getting the garage plan piped and now the drain comes by the new utility room area.
I could use some help on the green drains (sink and floor drain). Mostly need to find best way to pipe the floor drain so it catches a vent somewhere. Didn't know if I could use sink vent as a wet vent or some other option.
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So, did you do away with the shower? This looks a little different than the earlier plans.
So, I assume the green dot under the washer is the floor drain? If so, I would run the 45 off the main that catches the washer straight to the floor drain, and then add a vent for it up the wall next to the door. I assume the sink at the top of the drawing has a drain to the main pretty much mirroring the others on the drawing. The vent for that sink can go up that wall beside the window and either tie into the main vent stack, which I'm not sure where it is now, or through the roof as a separate vent. An AAV could also be used, but I personally hate them unless there is no way to conveniently use an atmospheric vent.
So, I assume the green dot under the washer is the floor drain? If so, I would run the 45 off the main that catches the washer straight to the floor drain, and then add a vent for it up the wall next to the door. I assume the sink at the top of the drawing has a drain to the main pretty much mirroring the others on the drawing. The vent for that sink can go up that wall beside the window and either tie into the main vent stack, which I'm not sure where it is now, or through the roof as a separate vent. An AAV could also be used, but I personally hate them unless there is no way to conveniently use an atmospheric vent.
plumbstupid
Active Member
This is the other room I was plumbing. I ended up leaving the floor drain out.
plumbstupid
Active Member
Passed Inspection!
plumbstupid
Active Member
Follow up note:
Just so anyone else looking for correct information I wanted to add this:
This whole process began because of the assumption I made (on post #21) about fittings in the grade beam. I asked the inspector if that would have passed and he said yes. He said you just need to create that void for the horizontal pipe in the fitting, whether a sleeve two-sizes up or some other method.
I would think that you would need to make sure the vertical pipe has complete ability to move too though otherwise it would be useless.
So I guess I could have gone with my original plan had I gotten a direct answer but alas, my in-ground is complete. Thank you MicEd69 for your generous help.
Just so anyone else looking for correct information I wanted to add this:
This whole process began because of the assumption I made (on post #21) about fittings in the grade beam. I asked the inspector if that would have passed and he said yes. He said you just need to create that void for the horizontal pipe in the fitting, whether a sleeve two-sizes up or some other method.
I would think that you would need to make sure the vertical pipe has complete ability to move too though otherwise it would be useless.
So I guess I could have gone with my original plan had I gotten a direct answer but alas, my in-ground is complete. Thank you MicEd69 for your generous help.
