Help with my septic problem?

[SWarnock84]

Hi All, I apologize for the length. I couldn't find a previous thread that matched my situation exactly...

I have a multi-tank aerobic system. I went to put chlorine tabs in my aerobic system the other day...and realized that I hadn't seen the grey water sprinklers come on for several days which was unusual. Went over to the control box and flipped to "test" but nothing happened. At that point I opened the control box and notice that the "test" breaker had tripped to the off position.

I flipped it back on - and now I have a solid red light at the control box, but no alarm tone - even when flipping to the "test" position.

I called the closest septic company (I'm pretty remote so there's only one option) and he said my pump is likely bad and it will be about $1300 for him to replace it. So I decided to dig a bit further...

Opened up the last tank, disconnected the coupling, and lifted the pump/float assembly out. It's a Sta-Rite 1/2 HP effluent pump with 3 float switches. Here's what happens when i actuate the floats:

-lower float appears to be doing nothing - regardless of whether the timer in the box is set to normal, on demand, or with the timer engaged
-middle float turns the motor on and off regardless of other float positions - yay...so the pump is good right?!
-upper float appears to be doing nothing - no alarm tone or change in the solid red light when


Does this sound like bad floats? Shouldn't I be getting an alarm tone when the top float is turned upside down?

 

[Twowaxhack]

You either have bad floats or something in your control box is fried.

Good for you, the pump isn’t bad.

 

[SWarnock84]

A few other details: all the wiring looks good and is correct per schematic. No burn marks or other obvious fouling. Line voltages on the distribution block are 120 for everything but the floats, 26 volts on the float terminal. Also, the timer is working (appears to be advancing time) but again it is not turning on the pump when i hits the designated time.

We typically use this system on the timer and run it in the middle of the night. I'm guessing it hasn't run because the tank isn't full enough for the middle override float to trip and either the timer or the timer float are bad. But the tripped alarm breaker and lack of alarm has me puzzled - is there a way to check the functionality of the buzzer, test circuit, timer, and floats so the septic company doesn't blindly replace parts/pumps?

 

[Twowaxhack]

They should be able to check for power at various points if they understand the sequence of operation.

A good electrician may could help you. Or anyone well versed in electronics

Sounds like you have a electrical/switch issue rather than a true problem with the pump itself

 

[Twowaxhack]

Be careful. Some pump systems have two power circuits. One for the pump and one for the alarm.

People have been killed before reaching into the tank after only turning one of the circuits off

 

[SWarnock84]

Thanks for all the good points Twowaxhack. And you're absolutely right, the pump and alarm are on separate circuits. I made sure to shut off all 3 breakers in the control box and the main breaker for the line in prior to touching anything. Electrical scares the bejezus out of me - and combined with water is asking for trouble.

Do I understand correctly that the bottom float is for the timer circuit, and that both the float and the timer must be engaged for that circuit to complete (i.e. if the timer engages but there isn't enough fluid in the tank to engage the lower float the pump will not run)?

It seems to me that the 26-volts on one float terminal and 120-volts on the other might indicate a partial close/voltage leak that would indicate the float as bad? I'm not seeing anything in the control box that would operate on lower voltage - the alarm buzzer, switches, timer circuit, etc all seem to operate at 120v.

At this point I guess I'll see if I can get an electrician to look at it/troubleshoot since the only septic guy clearly did not want to. If I don't have any luck I might be back here with other questions since my only other option is troubleshooting myself...

 

[Twowaxhack]

You could take your float wires out of the terminals in the panel and connect a volt meter to the wires set to continuity. Then raise the float to see if contact is made.

You do all that with the power off. Alligator clip leads help you do this alone without help.

 

[SWarnock84]

Wow...it's perfectly obvious when I read what you wrote...smh. It's funny how the simple things evade us some times! Thanks!