HELP to find a rebuild kit for my Watts Pressure Reducing Valve

[ruwiredup]

Hi everyone,
My 1992 home has the original Watts pressure reducing valve and it is staring to fail. Pressure dropping off rapidly when you first turn on any fixtures. I have been turning the pressure up little by little to keep things flowing but I am out of adjustment, the screw is all the way in now.
I would like to rebuild it rather than replace it if possible to avoid having to cut it out and sweat in a new one as it is in a tight area in the wall next to my water heater.
Unfortunately, my local pluming supply house Ferguson can not come up with a part number or availability of a rebuild kit based off of the Id Tag (Pictured).
Unfortunately, the white paint on the edges of the tag will not come off without taking the blue/white of the tag with it.
I have not yet cut open the wall to see what size pipe it is but was hoping the id tag might decode to which rebuild kit, if any, is available.
Worst case, I will just replace the whole unit but I figured I would share the Id tag and see if anyone had any input.
If there is any other info I can provide, please let me know.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Call Watts directly unless someone here can identify. 1-978-689-6066

Maybe send them the pic.

 

[ruwiredup]

Thanks for the number. I was on the Watts website and could not find an email address so I could send the picture so I messaged them via "contact us" input box but did not ever receive a reply. I will give them a call on Monday.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I just looked through their price catalogue and I didn’t see many repair kits and the ones I did see had totally different numbers that what you’re showing.

I think you’re going to hit a dead end but that may not be the case at all. You might very well find a kit for it. We have very little need for pressure reducing valves except for one rural area where the pressure is 125lbs at the meter.,

 

[ruwiredup]

Oddly enough I have a few other houses here in the same city but they are older, 1960, 1978 and 1980. They are all on the same city water supply but they do not have PRV. I'm guessing they just didn't equip homes with them back then and maybe it became a local requirement on new construction by the time my 1992 home was built.

 

[Twowaxhack]

If your water pressure never exceeds 80psi then it’s not needed.

I have customers that have 90 psi and one with 125psi. They will not let me install pressure reducing valve

The 125psi guy has problems all the time......

 

[Rickmack]

Hi everyone,
My 1992 home has the original Watts pressure reducing valve and it is staring to fail. Pressure dropping off rapidly when you first turn on any fixtures. I have been turning the pressure up little by little to keep things flowing but I am out of adjustment, the screw is all the way in now.
I would like to rebuild it rather than replace it if possible to avoid having to cut it out and sweat in a new one as it is in a tight area in the wall next to my water heater.
Unfortunately, my local pluming supply house Ferguson can not come up with a part number or availability of a rebuild kit based off of the Id Tag (Pictured).
Unfortunately, the white paint on the edges of the tag will not come off without taking the blue/white of the tag with it.
I have not yet cut open the wall to see what size pipe it is but was hoping the id tag might decode to which rebuild kit, if any, is available.
Worst case, I will just replace the whole unit but I figured I would share the Id tag and see if anyone had any input.
If there is any other info I can provide, please let me know.
View attachment 28249

Have you cleaned the screen?

 

[ruwiredup]

Have you cleaned the screen?

I have not yet. I plan to do that while I am in the wall. The PRV is not accessible from either side (Front/Back) and I will need to cut out the drywall from the laundry room wall to gain access to the back side (Screen access side). Then the front side, garage wall has been drywalled/mud completely to direct contact with the adjustment bell area of the PRV. I figured, if I'm going to have to cut both sides of the wall I might as well rebuild it while I'm in there, even if it turns out to just be debris collected in the screen.

 

[FishScreener]

They PRV is installed becasue the static pressure to your house is above 80-psi. As RickMack said, check the screen.

Manufactrers do not typically sell rebuild kits for the smaller valves, because for a plumber to rebuild one, will cost more in time than the cost of a new valve.

 

[Twowaxhack]

They PRV is installed becasue the static pressure to your house is above 80-psi. As RickMack said, check the screen.

Manufactrers do not typically sell rebuild kits for the smaller valves, because for a plumber to rebuild one, will cost more in time than the cost of a new valve.

Conditions can change. The reducing valve may not even be needed any longer.

I’d be checking.....

 

[ruwiredup]

Thank you for all the input everyone.
I have an update.
I've cut into both sides of the wall.
It appears that this PRV doesn't have a serviceable screen to check. I had seen the other PRV type which had a lower bolt on the back to access the screen before the valve.
Looks like I may be able to disconnect the union at the bottom and then de-solder the top fitting and slip the PRV out.

 

[FishScreener]

Undo the union. You should then have enough flex to pull the valve out a bit and unscrew it.

I’d probably solder in another union above it, so you can get it out again later. And, I’d give hard think about a Y strainer inline before the PRV. And leave an access panel on the garage side, for when you need to service it again.

 

[ruwiredup]

UPDATE:
I disassembled the PRV and found the issue. I was able to find a local plumbing house whom can source a rebuild kit for about $140.
I am now shopping around to find a better price if possible. If anyone has ideas where I might shop online, please advise.
Meanwhile, I am considering just buying a newer PRV with the cleanout screen in the lower portion and also replacing the gate valve which is located just above with a ball valve.

 

[Twowaxhack]

UPDATE:
I disassembled the PRV and found the issue. I was able to find a local plumbing house whom can source a rebuild kit for about $140.
I am now shopping around to find a better price if possible. If anyone has ideas where I might shop online, please advise.
Meanwhile, I am considering just buying a newer PRV with the cleanout screen in the lower portion and also replacing the gate valve which is located just above with a ball valve.

I think you know more about your valve than anyone here.