Help identifying bathtub drain stopper

[jr247]

Good evening! My bathtub drain stopper is missing the "lid" and all that's left is the threaded stem (it was like this when I purchased the house), and I can't seem to find any drain stopper lid replacements that look they would fit. The threading on this seems very long and it doesn't seem like most of the lids out there would sit flush when the stem is in the closed position. Of course, maybe I'm missing something here.

Can anybody help me identify this drain and let me know where I can get a replacement "lid" for it? Here's some pictures of the drain with the stem lifted and the stem lowered.

Thank you!

 

[Jamesplumbing06]

Either way you need a new drain kit. Even if you find just that cap. You will have to purchase complete kit and steal that shiny new cap and put it on the rusted old base. Those tub drains are easiest to remove. 2 heavy duty screw drivers. Make an x with shafts. Stick business ends into outer slots. Twist very very hard on that drain. It’s threaded and been there awhile. Some pros have a tub drain extractor tool. It’s grooved with left hand grips. I put on my 20volt dewalt impact and turn reverse the drill like you removing a screw. Push slightly until it grips. If you keep pushing you may break drain under it. Allow that old used drain fitting to raise out of fitting as it spins off.

 

[FishScreener]

They sell the cap at HomeDesperate. Toe operated tub drain. They are frequently removed because there is only about an 1/8th inch gap when it is open, and gets plugged with hair. So people who shower far more frequently than the use the tub, pull them off.

The hole in the middle of the threaded part is hex, and an Allen key goes in it, and it unscrews the threaded part. This will allow you o install alternatives

 

[jr247]

Either way you need a new drain kit. Even if you find just that cap. You will have to purchase complete kit and steal that shiny new cap and put it on the rusted old base. Those tub drains are easiest to remove. 2 heavy duty screw drivers. Make an x with shafts. Stick business ends into outer slots. Twist very very hard on that drain. It’s threaded and been there awhile. Some pros have a tub drain extractor tool. It’s grooved with left hand grips. I put on my 20volt dewalt impact and turn reverse the drill like you removing a screw. Push slightly until it grips. If you keep pushing you may break drain under it. Allow that old used drain fitting to raise out of fitting as it spins off.

Thank you for the fast reply! Just to verify, do I need access to the bottom of the tub to replace this component? I only ask because I've been told that some drain stoppers seem to require that.

They sell the cap at HomeDesperate. Toe operated tub drain. They are frequently removed because there is only about an 1/8th inch gap when it is open, and gets plugged with hair. So people who shower far more frequently than the use the tub, pull them off.

The hole in the middle of the threaded part is hex, and an Allen key goes in it, and it unscrews the threaded part. This will allow you o install alternatives

Unfortunately, I don't see any parts at Home Depot compatible with this drain. Do you know of one? Thanks.

 

[Jamesplumbing06]

This one doesn’t need access to underneath but never hurts to see under once your done. Do a YouTube search on tub shoe trim removal. It’s tricky. The trick is. If you slip you crack the porcelain on tub

 

[FishScreener]

Amazon has themas universal units: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07527WV9N/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Last time I was looking at Home Desperate, that had a Lasco, or Danco replacent hanging in the plumbing isle. They were pretty common installs in tract homes, because the toe unit with overflow was about twenty bucks less than a comparable unit with a lever operated plug, and they really are easier to take care of because they unscrew so you can get at the hair clogs. However, a lot of folks just left them off, because they clog a too less with out the plug in place. So, there was a fairly constant demand for them to replace the missing ones. First house I bought I found them in the vanity cabinet in each of the bathrooms.

 

[House Doc]

I've been doing this for a long time and unless you have access to the drain from below or an access panel I would NOT recommend taking out a old tub drain. You have no way of telling what all that hard twisting does to the rest of the tub drain. You could be knocking the drain tubes out of alignment and have a leak that you can't see.
The replacement that FishScreener recommended would be fine usually , but it requires 1 1/4" from flange to cross T.
I have been doing this for more than 40 years and have not seen a drain with this configuration. I have been using this Watco item for the past decade and have had pretty good luck with it.

Watco Lift & Turn Tub Stopper 48300-CP

You can get it from Amazon. Neither of my suppliers carried it in stock. But even with this you may have to cut out the crossbar as it is so close to the flange.

Then again if you're over a basement or crawl-space by all means crank it out and replacement. You can probably get a removal tool at the box stores or any plumbing supplier.

 

[CT18]

It is a toe stopper, we call them toe taps. You should be able to remove that stud with an allen wrench into the top of it like stated above. You would have to replace with another toe tap since i dont think you have a trip waste.

 

[justin_dewan90]

Plumbing is different from plumber to plumber. I can understand why someone would recommend replacing the trim, but if you do that, just replace the whole overflow kit. That is not a plastic shoe. You have a high chance that it is not leaking due to rust. Replace the toe kick and be done with it. You mess with it too much, you will be replacing the whole overflow.