Handles frozen on Brass Craft shutoff valves

[Riickk]

I'm getting ready to replace two lavatory faucets.
Last time I touched anything under this double sink was when current faucets went in, maybe 17 years ago.
The handles on all 4 shutoff valves: are stuck open, and it's going to take some force to get them to move.
I don't want to deal with replacing them.
What should I use, to try to free them up, before I get the pipe wrenches out?
I'm thinking of trying to soak them in vinegar overnight, using plastic baggie held in place with rubber bands & tape.
Other ideas?

FWIW: Shutoff valves are c.1960 chrome Brass Craft, the type that has a
5"-6" decorative chrome tube sweated onto the 1/2-inch copper pipe.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You can probably just take off the handle and packing nut, crank out the guts, clean out the valve body with vinegar, and screw in the guts of a compatible Brasscraft valve.
But sometimes the plastic guts or stem will still snap.

I’m not sure what kind of overnight vinegar soaking you are describing, if it only involves the exterior of the valve I don’t see it doing much.

Maybe if you just loosen the packing nut, with house water off, they will loosen up enough to operate, or to be more easily repaired.

You could try removing the packing nut and handle, then do that overnight soak.
House water of course has to be off all night, and water can come out of those open valves if other faucets get operated or toilets are flushed, even with the water off.

 

[sarg]

Perhaps shut the main supply and replace all with ball valves.

 

[Riickk]

OK, got it.
Supply House carries repair kits for these valves
Stems are Plastic or Brass
Which would you choose?

 

[Twowaxhack]

OK, got it.
Supply House carries repair kits for these valves
Stems are Plastic or Brass
Which would you choose?

Personally I prefer the brass stem.

 

[breplum]

You can lubricate the valve stems when you shut off the water.
So sorry, that idiots decided to solder angle stops in your house.

 

[pasadena_commut]

I know this is truly cringe worthy, but rather than trying to fix them, which if you are super unlucky might break something to the point you need to call a plumber to remove one, you could just install ball valves on their ends. It will be ugly, but probably "under the sink where nobody ever sees it" ugly, so who cares? It will certainly be a lot faster than taking them apart and putting them back together again. After putting on the ball valves maybe remove the handles on the others (probably just held on by a screw), to avoid anybody touching them in future. In 50 years when they repipe the house they can clean up the mess.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I have never done that double valve cheat, but I have encountered it more than a few times, usually under a kitchen sink where it often is very hard to work.
Quick and dirty, but it works, and someone with zero skills can accomplish it.

 

[Riickk]

So sorry, that idiots decided to solder angle stops in your house.

Shutoffs are probably original: House built in 1960 - I suspect soldering was the way then, and compression fittings weren't that common.
I have a 8 or 10 quarter-turn, angle-stops, that screw on to 1/2" male iron pipe fittings. If the old stops weren't the long-chrome-tube variety, I'd use up those new stops. But desoldering that type stop takes a lot of heat, and then, you have to get the solder off the copper.

The brass repair stems arrived today... there are no threads cut for the machine screw that holds the handles in place. Is that even half-way normal?
/

 

[Jeff Handy]

No screw hole sounds wacky, contact Plumbing Supply.
You could drill it.
Or just a little super glue gel on the splines.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Not sure what you have but it’s needs to be tapped for the handle screws.

I solder on stop valves on a regular basis.
It’s not a problem. Brasscraft is my preferred brand. I repair them on a regular basis as well.

Here are some with a dual outlet. I don’t use those......so I strip them and use them for parts. I paid $1 each for those, the body of the valve is in my scrap barrel. I have pile of compression nuts 5/8” and the ferrules.

 

[Riickk]

Not sure what you have but it’s needs to be tapped for the handle screws.

Right..... Easy, if I owned a set of taps.
=============================================

...you could just install ball valves on their ends.

Do you mean stops like these? 1/4-Turn. Chrome plated brass, brass ball in teflon

What I found are NPT thread, tapered (?)
Will they simply screw onto the ends of existing stops?
If they do, it's pure genius.
.

 

[hukre]

Again, this goes to show that you need to operate every ball valve in your house at least once a year.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Sure, if I owned a set of taps.

You didn’t order the right part number or it’s defective/incomplete.

 

[Jeff Handy]

They are not ball valves, but operating all shutoff valves annually is still a good idea.
I think the manufacturers call it “exercising the valve”.
And while installing a shutoff, take a few extra seconds to add some plumber’s grease on all seals and moving parts, it will pay off years later.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The problem with old compression stop valves is that the washer is usually dry rotted. When you turn the valve off the washer breaks into pieces then when you turn the valve on those pieces blow up into the faucet.

 

[pakle]

They are not ball valves, but operating all shutoff valves annually is still a good idea.
I think the manufacturers call it “exercising the valve”.
And while installing a shutoff, take a few extra seconds to add some plumber’s grease on all seals and moving parts, it will pay off years later.

Hey Jeff, I got the handyman coming next week to replace all the shut off valves with the Dahl ones you guys recommended a couple months ago:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...omp-Angle-Supply-Stop-Lead-Free-Chrome-Plated
Do you recommend using plumber's grease on these and if so, where? Thanks.

Never knew about "exercising the valve," but I guess I'll be doing that once a year after these things are replaced. Really tired of them leaking...

 

[Twowaxhack]

Hey Jeff, I got the handyman coming next week to replace all the shut off valves with the Dahl ones you guys recommended a couple months ago:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...omp-Angle-Supply-Stop-Lead-Free-Chrome-Plated
Do you recommend using plumber's grease on these and if so, where? Thanks.

Never knew about "exercising the valve," but I guess I'll be doing that once a year after these things are replaced. Really tired of them leaking...

Chances are you’ll turn one of those valves in 5-10 years and it leaks. That’s just the quality of valves at this price point regardless of brand.

 

[pakle]

Chances are you’ll turn one of those valves in 5-10 years and it leaks. That’s just the quality of valves at this price point regardless of brand.

Gosh I hope not. That's what happened to a bunch of the Brasscraft ones from Home Depot that I'm replacing. Leaking after just 5 years and the guys here said Brasscraft stems were plastic and recommended the Dahl which are brass stems.
https://www.plumbingforums.com/thre...-for-toilet-sink-other-than-home-depot.17808/

 

[Twowaxhack]

Gosh I hope not. That's what happened to a bunch of the Brasscraft ones from Home Depot that I'm replacing. Leaking after just 5 years and the guys here said Brasscraft stems were plastic and recommended the Dahl which are brass stems.
https://www.plumbingforums.com/thre...-for-toilet-sink-other-than-home-depot.17808/

I prefer the Brasscraft valves with the packing nut.

call me crazy......

They’re highly repairable and the ones I installed in my house I replaced the washers with high quality washers and used silicone grease to lubricate the packing gland. I expect them to at least last 30 years, they’re at the 22 year mark now.

Once the 1/4 turn stop starts leaking around the handle, it’s scrap....