Graff 8076 Stop/Volume Control Valve with Pass Through & body spray question

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BostonDIYer

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Boston, MA
Hoping someone can help me out a bit as I progress through this tile shower tear out & rebuild. Long story short, our tile shower failed and leaked to the floor below. It was not really salvageable so I ripped it out and am starting over. Now that the walls are open, I am looking to also improve a couple of quirks from the original installation.

I've attached photos of the current plumbing along with the shower valve. We have body sprays in this shower but because of how they were plumbed, they would continue to spray for a good 30 seconds after the water was off. I suspect this is partially because the contractor chose to run the pex 3 feet up the wall above the valve to get water to the sprayers on the opposite wall. The water goes off and there is plenty of gravity and water left over to make these things pee on you for a bit.

I am going to reconfigure this pex to help stop/reduce the leaking after the water is off. I noticed this Graff M-series 8076 valve that handles volume control for the body sprays has a nut on both the left and right sides of it. It appears we can definitely use one side or the other because the two valves below it are also 8076 valves. Does anyone know if I can use both sides simultaneously? If so, any thoughts on how I would connect the pex? I can dig into it to figure out but am about to hit the hardware store for more supplies and not sure if I will need any adapters to attach it.

My thoughts is, if I can indeed branch out both sides without compromising pressure, I will just eliminate the huge branch that is 3 feet up the wall.

Also, they did not install a pressure balance loop. I don't know if one is necessary or not. We had not complaints about pressure from these sprayers per se, just the leaking after off issue. I am ok with leaving well enough alone unless you all think I should include the loop.

As always, thank you in advance!

-- Chris20230812_154552.jpg20230812_154636.jpg20230812_154807.jpg20230812_154815.jpg
 
Somewhat crazy thought...

Given the subfloor is open currently, would branching the diverter down 90 degrees in the floor, splitting below the subfloor and then branch back up into the wall cavity be an option? I am guessing not because the water might just hang out in the pex after it gets shut off but figured it was worth asking.
 
I ended up figuring this out. Looks like the connections are nothing more than a 3/4" male threaded connection to 1/2" barb for the pex. I am going to try to try running water out of both the left and right sides of the valve simultaneously. It looks as though it should work.

Any input on whether there would be any issues with me running the pex down into the floor joist bays and then poke up into the wall bays for the water connections.
 
I’ve done it many times
Thank you and just to be clear, this is not the supply line to the valve but rather the connections to the side walls. Where I will have two fixtures on each wall perpendicular to the wall with the shower valve on it.

I would prefer to limit the number of connections and blasting through 6 studs with a 90 degree fitting buried deep into the corner doesn't sound like it's the best idea.
 

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