got some OLLLLLLDDDDD 1" (nominal) PVC pipe.....in my shallow-well irrigation ONLY pump.....built in 60's, 70's.....???? maybe 80's, but I doubt it.

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Jim Jensen

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OK, this is an old house that my Mom bought, she is 82..... house built in 1960.... at some point after that, a neighbor helped owner drill a shallow well, right behind house..... 4" thick concrete block pump house, that had one wall about to fall OVER, when she purchased, in 2018.... I demolished pump house, and re-did the piping.... recently, the PVC 1" threaded fitting into the pump, blew out....( I had accidentally left the pump RUNNING, with all outlets shut OFF, I guess that caused it ???

Anyway, I am trying to connect NEW, 1" sched 40 PVC, into the old piping, but it is NOT sched 40, not sure what it is...... Diameter is 1.38"..... measured with my calipers.... they had a PVC union, already there, that connected that existing manifold pipe...(it is split off into 6 zones, each with a manual cheapie PVC valve).....to SCHED 40 PVC...... the old pipe is really thin, about 1/2 the wall thickness of the sched 40 1" pvc pipe.....but it is TOO WIDE diameter for a 1" sched 40 union, to fit on it....

I am sure someone out there (prolly OLDER guys,..) will know EXACTLY what this stuff is, and if there is still a PVC union, to connect the two.... that is all I am after, for now..... Eventually, I will junk all those manual valves, and put in electric valves and a timer..... manually running six zones for 20 or 30 min each is a MAJOR PITA, in Florida !!!! ha ha THANKS in advance, for any help / advice.
Jim in Jacksonville, FL
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I guess I figured this out, looks like it is thin-wall 1 1/4" PVC, meant for DWV..... sched 30, apparently not even made, any longer.... I see 3" sched 30, but that is all that comes up in search. So I guess I just need a 1" to 1 1/4" adapter....
 
The O.D of the plastic pipe is the same irrespective of the I.D., and schedule. So, you should just be able to repipe with new 1-1/4 PVC Schd 40 or 80 and be fine. And they sell all kinds of reducers and bushings for those sizes of PVC fittings.

A tip on sprinkler system manifolds: put unions on either side of the solenoid controlled valves so they can easily be taken out, and install quick disconnects on the wiring. (Make things easy to work on and repair). At the end of your manifold add a hammer arrestor. It will greatly increase the life of the valves and the manifold piping. Those valves tend to close very quickly, resulting in water hammer. PVC will crystallize form the repeated hammering and then split.
 
I agree with Fish. However, unlike an irrigation system on city water, when you have a pump system the pressure tank should act as a hammer arrestor and you shouldn't need another one.
 
The O.D of the plastic pipe is the same irrespective of the I.D., and schedule. So, you should just be able to repipe with new 1-1/4 PVC Schd 40 or 80 and be fine. And they sell all kinds of reducers and bushings for those sizes of PVC fittings.

A tip on sprinkler system manifolds: put unions on either side of the solenoid controlled valves so they can easily be taken out, and install quick disconnects on the wiring. (Make things easy to work on and repair). At the end of your manifold add a hammer arrestor. It will greatly increase the life of the valves and the manifold piping. Those valves tend to close very quickly, resulting in water hammer. PVC will crystallize form the repeated hammering and then split.

OK, thanks for the ADVICE!!!! I have watched some youtube's on manifolds, so I knew to put the unions in, but I did not know about the water arrestor in the manifold !!!
 
turns out, it was just 1" PVC thin-wall, guy at HD id'd it, said it had just swelled up, with heat & pressure and time.... so I came home, measured FURTHER away from the pump, and sure enough, diameter went down enough that I could force a 1" PVC solvent coupling on it !!! so issue SOLVED !!! thanks !!!
 
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