Of course I’m speaking of one area. I’ve never said anything different.,, read my posts on this thread.
So......I just walked out of this house 5 minutes ago. I use an iPhone.
Garbage disposal - switching from hardwired to plug style
- Thread starter BrianL
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So......I just walked out of this house 5 minutes ago. I use an iPhone.
With a hardwire disposal I never have to replace a plug or buy a disposal cord.
Kinda like a water heater, we wire those up direct as well.
It’s a permanent appliance, meaning that when people move out they usually don’t load it up and take it with them.
FishScreener
Well-Known Member
It depends on what the AHJ has decided/adopted. The base code requires disconnects for all mechanical devices with five feet and visible. But, different jurisdictions modify the codes however they want, before they adopt them and make them law.
I was on a committee when I lived in Nevada to get one unifrom set of codes for all of Clark County. The County, and cities of Las Vegas, North Las Vegas, Mesquite, Boulder City, and Henderson all had adopted their own versions of the codes. Which quite expectedly was driving contractors nuts. Drive across the street and the code changed, drive down the street, and it changed again.
I was on a committee when I lived in Nevada to get one unifrom set of codes for all of Clark County. The County, and cities of Las Vegas, North Las Vegas, Mesquite, Boulder City, and Henderson all had adopted their own versions of the codes. Which quite expectedly was driving contractors nuts. Drive across the street and the code changed, drive down the street, and it changed again.
This is why I do what I want. They can’t agree between theirselves.
Moen says I can safely hardwire their disposal to a grounded outlet.
What’s the inspectors favorite fall back ? “ Follow the manufacturers directions. “
Ok, Bet
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Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
Oh my—that’s a total hack job in those photos.
Million dollar home......
Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
If any plumber, electrician, or any combination there of of did that to my kitchen cabinet, they would never work again. Even Moe, Larry and Curly would do better work than those pictures show. That’s a total nightmare and destruction of a very expensive cabinet.
I assume the old sink piping leaked and ruined the cabinet bottom over time. So the carpenter cut it out so they can replace it.
I just took the job and the old sink was already removed.
I posted those pics minutes after I’d first seen the job., I haven’t even met the owner yet.
I went by there because the stop valves under the sink were dripping. I plugged the stops.
Im not due back until the stone is set for the countertop after the 28th.
They’re also adding an under counter ice maker.
I’ll take more pics when I go back. The entire house is being renovated including the landscaping and pool.
Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
You cannot compare an electric water heater and a garbage disposal.
An electric water heater must be connected by hardwire according to current electric codes, unless those codes are superseded by a local jurisdiction. in some cases they are required to have a disconnect within sight of the water heater but not always. A proper wiring of an electric water heater would include armored or liquid tight cable (protected) but in many cases you’ll see standard NM cable. No electric storage water heater comes with a cord and plug.
The electric code specifically references a cord and plug for devices with motors subject to vibration, and for ease of service which most certainly includes a garbage disposal. As I pointed out in an earlier posting many garbage disposals that you can purchase come with the cord and plug; you can use the included cord and plug or you can hardwire it depending on your choice of installation.
I realize where you are hardwired disposals with no GFCI may be standard. That doesn’t mean it’s the best way. It’s the easier way for benefit of the builder...less costly.
Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
Yikes!!
don’t you want to go back before the counter top is in?? Makes your life way easier!
Your codes are fresh. We work on houses that are old.......codes don’t apply to replacements. 
New construction is a totally different game.
The reason I compared them is because they’re both permanent appliances. That’s why codes let us hardwire them in the past and still today if they don’t have an outlet to plug into.
A light switch qualified as a disconnect for my water heater. Also it’s just 10-2 Romex coming out of the drywall, no armor no nothing 21 yrs later everyones still alive. 
I remolded my kitchen and I installed a plug for my disposal. My dishwasher already had one
New construction is a totally different game.
The reason I compared them is because they’re both permanent appliances. That’s why codes let us hardwire them in the past and still today if they don’t have an outlet to plug into.
A light switch qualified as a disconnect for my water heater. Also it’s just 10-2 Romex coming out of the drywall, no armor no nothing
21 yrs later everyones still alive. I remolded my kitchen and I installed a plug for my disposal. My dishwasher already had one
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The faucet gets mounted through the stone.
had to correct my spelling, I always do. I’m on an iPhone when I post so it’s hard to type long posts
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As far as ease of service, a disposal has a switch on the wall when it doesn’t have a plug, unless it’s batch feed.
That switch makes it easy enough for me to service. Turn the switch off and wire nut the hot and neutral together. This insures that if anyone turns the switch on youll know it. Or if you accidentally turn it on yourself.
I do this as well with water heaters that do not have a disconnect. This way if someone turns breaker on, I know it immediately.
These plug in and disconnects are so service people don’t get electrocuted.
There are a lot of people who aren’t qualified out doing work, they want to keep the idiots safe. They’re finding out that’s impossible
I’m just giving you another opinion and why I have it. I’m not saying safety feature are bad.......but there becomes a point to where you’re adding a bunch of unnecessary crap to the system to Fail. I’ve replaced several GFCI plugs in my home, not one regular plug. GFCI plugs BREAK, I only use them in areas that are wet on a regular basis. Outside, kitchen, bathroom, etc. Nuisance tripping and the like.
That switch makes it easy enough for me to service. Turn the switch off and wire nut the hot and neutral together. This insures that if anyone turns the switch on youll know it. Or if you accidentally turn it on yourself.
I do this as well with water heaters that do not have a disconnect. This way if someone turns breaker on, I know it immediately.
These plug in and disconnects are so service people don’t get electrocuted.
There are a lot of people who aren’t qualified out doing work, they want to keep the idiots safe. They’re finding out that’s impossible
I’m just giving you another opinion and why I have it. I’m not saying safety feature are bad.......but there becomes a point to where you’re adding a bunch of unnecessary crap to the system to Fail. I’ve replaced several GFCI plugs in my home, not one regular plug. GFCI plugs BREAK, I only use them in areas that are wet on a regular basis. Outside, kitchen, bathroom, etc. Nuisance tripping and the like.
