expansion tank supposed to be pumped up more to offset spikes?

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Just curious if you would add strapping to this installation? I'm not a plumber. Just trying to learn. I see it done like this a lot. Really don't know if it's right or wrong.


run a piece of steel strap iron from the 90 where it connects to the tank to a ceiling joist.

Will the pipe break ? Probably notbut maybe if conditions get right....

The problem is when the bladder fails in that tank it will fill with water. That makes it heavy. It fills with a little water sometimes but when it fails it fills up totally.

A more likely situation would be the water heater nipple rusts away and it breaks at the lower portion of the tee. It could happen.....

Your plumbing codes most likely requires it to be supported by something other than the pipe.

But initially it’s very strong. I’ve hoisted water heaters into attics by 3/4” pipe thread connections.
 
Any reason why the main (1/2"??) feed is doubled 90° off the tee rather than coming straight up?

Does the expansion tank (code) requirements call out 3/4" or could they have use the 1/2" to supply the tank?
It would work with 1/2”. I believe code requires it to be 3/4.

A dumb butt piped it. That’s why it’s like you see it.
 
I have been hearing this criticism from several sources but dont fully understand it? Anything specific about that aspect I need to worry about or was it just poor execution but got the job done?
 
I was a plumber for 30 years then an inspector for 15, it was so nice to come across contractors like this and throw the book at them .
 
I was a plumber for 30 years then an inspector for 15, it was so nice to come across contractors like this and throw the book at them .
well its two contractors now, the original and the guy that was supposed to fix it. Apparently it is impossible to get anybody that actually does a good job around SC...I doubt I will mess with the T if it doesn't create a specific problem, just run some metal hoses and wrap seems like an acceptable if crappy solution?

From what I am understanding is that my local regulator just dont actually enforce anything regarding water heater installs.
 
I was a plumber for 30 years then an inspector for 15, it was so nice to come across contractors like this and throw the book at them .

Soooo, strictly speaking from an (IPC) Code perspective; other than the missing inlet valve and the pex up against the vent pipe, what else would fail?

I just looked through the 2021 version and only found the typical; "must be installed according to manufactures specs" (502.1). The IPC doesn't even call for the support strap other than referring back to the IBC in 606.5.1
 
Soooo, strictly speaking from an (IPC) Code perspective; other than the missing inlet valve and the pex up against the vent pipe, what else would fail?

I just looked through the 2021 version and only found the typical; "must be installed according to manufactures specs" (502.1). The IPC doesn't even call for the support strap other than referring back to the IBC in 606.5.1

Sorry I missed the stuff on inlet valve? There is a shut off on the pipe way up near the wall, hard to get to but it is present. The guy that did the expansion tank commented on that being a crappy location...I am 90% sure it was down near the tank before the first guy swapped out the water heaters. Ironically the first guy specifically mentioned my "fittings not being up to code" and ran it like that with the pex. I can see that technically the expansion guy wasn;t paid to rerun metal hoses so he just worked with what was there, but if he had told me it was wrong I would have gladly paid to get it done.

Is that the shut off valve you mean, or is there some other valve supposed to be on here? Edit uploaded a pic
 

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I don’t understand why the last guy didn’t install the pex into the top of the tee and the nipple for the exp. tank out of the center of the tee.

He chose to install a few pex 90’s making an offset. All wasted.

But ultimately it was wrong before he messed with it because the first guy botched the job as well.

Blind leading the blind......
 
@pepperjack - Think, code wise, the valve needs to be accessible; of course, accessible, is open for opinion 😂 🤣 .

Not sure my 5'3" wife is reaching that in an emergency...
Now there is a second shut of valve that comes before the tank. I actually don’t even understand what this second shut of valve would be used for….does this make any difference in your view? Of course, prior to this install I didn’t even know what these were at all and have always shut it off from the in ground at the front yard…
 

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One cuts the whole house off, the one on the cold water inlet just cuts the tank off and the hot water side of your water system.

Or that’s what I believe. You could verify
 
if you’re getting over 80 psi before thermal expansion spikes the PRV has failed and needs replaced.
 
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