Electric water heater. Totally baffled

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cdestuck

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Trying to help a neighbor get some hot water and we purchased a used Rheem 30 gallon electric tank which was only six months old. He previously had natural gas heater. Cell I installed a double breaker 30 amp breaker and ran 10 gauge wire from the breaker box to the water heater. Plumbed it all in it all seemed to go really well.

Flipped on the breaker and waited about two hours and tested the water and it was totally cold. So I went into diagnosing. I took the covers off of both the upper and lower element and thermostat. The thermostat was set to 125° in with my multimeter I had 110 power to each screw on both of the elements. Sell all seem good up to the element portion.

Following a YouTube video I checked the resistance of each element by setting my multimeter to continuity at 200 ohms and touching a lead to each screw I got a reading of 14 which shows the Element should be good according to the YouTube I watched. this of course done after I had turned the tandem breaker off.

Just what the heck can be going on here that I am missing. At this point I am scratching what's left of my hair off my head so I'm hoping somebody smarter than I can give me something to check. It would be hard to believe that a water heater only six-month-old would have both elements bad if I am not checking them correctly but there is no hot water at all. Thanks and advance for any
 
Discovered my problem. Guys panel box was a fire trap Federal Pacific and when placing in the tandem breaker, It allowed me to place it where it wasn't picking up power from two separate bars and was only picking up juice from the same one. Thus, only getting 110v. All fixed up know. Tks guys
 
Using a thin 2 pole Circuit Breaker ? I hate thin CB's , for a number of reasons .

FPE loadcenters & Circuit Breakers are close to the worst . And new CB's are sky high .

I changed mine to a C-H brand loadcenter & CB's .

God bless
Wyr
 

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