Ejector pump switch failure, lid rotted

[anthony21078]

The ejector pump for my basement bathroom wasn't pumping. Thankfully this bathroom never gets used but every month or so I run the sink water through pump just to make sure I hear it working. Well today it wasn't moving water. The pump itself works when plugged directly into the outlet but when plugged into the switch plug, the pump will not turn on. So either the switch is faulty or the maybe the buoy is stuck, not sure just yet.

When I started to remove the coupler from the vent pipe, the base snapped off from the bolts and the lid is essentially rotted. At this point I stopped and I'm trying to figure my options.

First, I have no idea how old the pump is. House was built in 1987 and I bought 6 years ago. Pump could be from '87 for all I know but still works. I have no idea what material the the basin and lid are made of. If the lid is rotted like you can see in the pics, can I assume the basin will do the same? Im thinking once I remove the lid the whole unit is compromised and wont seal correctly.

Does this look like a complete overhaul and replacement of everything is needed? Any chance a new lid would be compatible and perhaps install a new swtich? I suppose I really need to take the whole lid off to see what Im working with but Im just throwing it out there.

If a new basin and pump is needed, any recommendations for good quality parts. Buy once, cry once

 

[TomFOhio]

If thats a metal lid the pit is probably the same. Sounds like the switch is out on your pump. If it was mine I would consider
replacing everything. You can dig that old pit out and put the new heavy plastic pit and lid. The most expensive thing would
be the pump.

 

[anthony21078]

Perhaps not as a terrible as expected. The lid was completely rotted. The tank itself appears to be in decent shape but I am no expert. I left it full with water overnight and its not leaking. I believe its made of fiberglass but not sure. When I applied pressure to the base of the tank with a pole it felt like it had a bubble in it (if that makes sense). Maybe its becoming brittle also?

When I put the float in the fully upright and upside position the pump turns on. However, I had the tank full with water before removing the pump and it would not activate. Maybe it was stuck?

The diameter of the lid is 20.75" and the inner diameter of the tank is 17.75". There are 4 bolt holes but there are no threads. Maybe this lid?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-18-in-Basin-Cover-for-Sump-and-Sewage-Basins-SF2000E/204733083
So the pump works and the float works now but easy enough to replace since maybe its worn. Not sure of the pump age either. Clearly need a new lid.

As far as the float is concerned, why would it have been placed in a position that always leaves a minimum of 10-14" of liquids in the tank? What is optimal non-activated height?

 

[TomFOhio]

Thats great if all you need is a new lid. As long as the water doesn't fill up and go into your drain going into the pit you should
be ok. Put the pump down in and hook of drain and fill with clean water and see what happens. If it pumps out like it
suppose to do then get a new lid and maybe a new check valve and then your good to go. Let us know how things go.

 

[anthony21078]

Thats great if all you need is a new lid. As long as the water doesn't fill up and go into your drain going into the pit you should
be ok. Put the pump down in and hook of drain and fill with clean water and see what happens. If it pumps out like it
suppose to do then get a new lid and maybe a new check valve and then your good to go. Let us know how things go.

Since everything is opened up and cleaned out, and considering I have no idea how old this pump is, Ill be replacing with a zoeller m267 and a new lid. I put a new check valve in last year so Im good there.

 

[TomFOhio]

Good idea, I like Zoeller pumps

 

[DFBonnett]

FWIW, I used the Everbilt lid from HD to replace a rusted out steel lid. Worked out well.