- Joined
- Sep 28, 2014
- Messages
- 8,578
- Reaction score
- 2,976
3x8 ? actual 3x8 or 2 1/2 x 7 1/2 ?
are you spacing 12'' on center
how long of a span ?
are you spacing 12'' on center
how long of a span ?
DWV Design Feedback Sought (Latest)
- Thread starter jb9
- Start date
Help Support Plumbing Forums:
The floor joists are going to be exactly 3"x 8" since the span calculations are done based on the size of the timbers. They will be milled to that dimension.
Spacing is probably going to be 24". I haven't had to move any of the floor joists which is why I have been so diligent in getting the stacks organized (Your feedback has been excellent).
The span is 11' 4" which is more or less split down the middle for the two bathrooms. Not luxurious bathrooms by any stretch but comfortable.
Spacing is probably going to be 24". I haven't had to move any of the floor joists which is why I have been so diligent in getting the stacks organized (Your feedback has been excellent).
The span is 11' 4" which is more or less split down the middle for the two bathrooms. Not luxurious bathrooms by any stretch but comfortable.
here's my 2 cents worth.
The location of toilet stack behind bath tub does not have to be centered behind toilet. you can move it over a few feet or inches as long as you have room in joist area. you can box/head out a joist to give you more room
The location of toilet stack behind bath tub does not have to be centered behind toilet. you can move it over a few feet or inches as long as you have room in joist area. you can box/head out a joist to give you more room
OH! You haven't. I just made that up. Couldn't think of the correct terminology
you cut a floor joist short and use a perpendicular joist between 2 joist to hang the middle one on. This will give you some room to swing your closet ell over a foot or 2
LINK to Family Handyman "How joist work" article"
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2014
- Messages
- 8,578
- Reaction score
- 2,976
David, if it was my place, i would catch both toilets with a side outlet cross and the tub, run an arm to one lav
then bring a stack up to catch the shower and wet vent the other lav into it
2 waste stacks, and 2 vent stacks from dwn stairs
then bring a stack up to catch the shower and wet vent the other lav into it
2 waste stacks, and 2 vent stacks from dwn stairs
simple is not always better but sure is a hell of a lot easier.
Don't forget the turlet and sink on the 1st floor.
I would put the toilets ,sinks and tub & shower back to back would mack it even that much simpler.
I was wondering to my self earlier about location of the door to get into the bathroom with the shower.
stair well on long side and a shower on the end. looks kind of tight to put door next to shower.
Don't forget the turlet and sink on the 1st floor.
I would put the toilets ,sinks and tub & shower back to back would mack it even that much simpler.
I was wondering to my self earlier about location of the door to get into the bathroom with the shower.
stair well on long side and a shower on the end. looks kind of tight to put door next to shower.
Good questions. Regarding the door to the 2nd floor bathroom with the shower, I am probably going to use a sliding barn door or "pocket" door to minimize interference with the shower. Also, I am not going to be able to make any modifications to the timber joist as it is structural (that is one of the constraints of Timber Frames).
These are all great recommendations. I can see the benefit of reducing stacks but I want to make sure the system isn't prone to clogs with too many bends. I also definitely understand how some of the newer high pressure toilets flush with more gusto and that could siphon out a trap. It seems like I have stumbled upon the Wet vs. Dry Vent debate but I know that it's a difficult topic to debate in the theoretical realm. Lots of opinions, code changes, old vs. new, etc. I am going to redraw some of your dry vent suggestions Mr. David and take a look at your revisions too Frodo (I like the idea, "if it was my place, I would do..."). Again, I am going to have to maintain the system, so I am looking for intuitive and something that will work well even if not the simplest on paper (good point Mr. David). I am learning a ton from this thread so I want to reiterate my gratitude.
Thanks!
I'll redraw and post some jpgs side by side for comparison.
These are all great recommendations. I can see the benefit of reducing stacks but I want to make sure the system isn't prone to clogs with too many bends. I also definitely understand how some of the newer high pressure toilets flush with more gusto and that could siphon out a trap. It seems like I have stumbled upon the Wet vs. Dry Vent debate but I know that it's a difficult topic to debate in the theoretical realm. Lots of opinions, code changes, old vs. new, etc. I am going to redraw some of your dry vent suggestions Mr. David and take a look at your revisions too Frodo (I like the idea, "if it was my place, I would do..."). Again, I am going to have to maintain the system, so I am looking for intuitive and something that will work well even if not the simplest on paper (good point Mr. David). I am learning a ton from this thread so I want to reiterate my gratitude.
Thanks!
I'll redraw and post some jpgs side by side for comparison.
Ok guys, here's a set of jpgs that reflects Mr_David's design. I am going to look and reflect on these too... One question I have about the toilet and tub group is how the Waste Overflow assembly is going to work with the dry vent for the tub. I don't want to have the P-trap exposed below so that was what motivated me to investigate how to find a way to extend the horizontal portion of the tub arm.
One thing I tweaked was to actually wet vent the lav with the shower into the one branch that comes in. Is that OK? Also, I do like the 45 branch better than a horizontal (sloped) branch. Is that acceptable under IPC?
Thanks for sharing a few differing opinions. I can tell you guys all have solid experience so I appreciate your thoughts.
One thing I tweaked was to actually wet vent the lav with the shower into the one branch that comes in. Is that OK? Also, I do like the 45 branch better than a horizontal (sloped) branch. Is that acceptable under IPC?
Thanks for sharing a few differing opinions. I can tell you guys all have solid experience so I appreciate your thoughts.
Keep in mind that if you do a pocket door, you need to remember that you have to be careful what you put on the wall that the door recedes in to. Don't want to risk accidentally putting a nail or something through. If you have the pace, it may be simpler to have a door that opens outward instead of inward. One of the drawbacks of pocket doors is that if they can jam or get off track and stuff might be able to get in to the pocket. I considered getting a pocket door, but then decided to have a door swinging out instead.
Good point Zanne! I think I should have enough space for a swinging door. Since the house is going to be a timber frame (rustic), I may actually have some kind of a rustic barn door that slides rather than a true pocket door.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2014
- Messages
- 8,578
- Reaction score
- 2,976
http://www.houzz.com/photos/26950048/Rustic-Slide-Barn-Door-Closet-Hardware-Set-8-2-Roller-rustic-barn-door-hardware
I plumbed a condo in teluride, penthouse, in the bathroom, was a 4'' steel beam. in the middle of the bathroom. no one had a clue what to do with it
a local carpenter, split a aspen timber, fit it around the beam
then an artist painted the ceiling to look like branch's. the tree was fitted with branch's that were used as clothes/towel hooks
My concern with the sliding door is I wonder how well it holds in odors, moisture, and gives privacy. Is it harder to lock those sorts of doors?
The moisture thing reminds me of another issue: You will need a bathroom vent/fan to remove the moisture that builds up when people bathe. I don't know what the climate is like where you are, but ones with lights and heat are nice for areas that get cold. But, they will need to connect to ductwork to remove the moisture from the home- so you may need to work in plans for ducts. You can't have them just push the moisture in to the attic or interior spaces because it can cause the wood to rot.
I'm assuming you might have some sort of HVAC system set up so you will need to make sure none of the plumbing intersects the ductwork. If you aren't sure how much CFM is needed, you just find the area of the room (length x width) and then multiply that by the height of the ceiling. Then divide that by 7.5 and you get the minimum required CFM for a fan.
My apologies if you knew this already.
Btw, if you want to do the sliding barn door thing, there is a page that tells you how to make one for $50. http://www.paperdaisydesign.com/2015/02/build-it-contemporary-4-panel-barn-door-for-50.html
The moisture thing reminds me of another issue: You will need a bathroom vent/fan to remove the moisture that builds up when people bathe. I don't know what the climate is like where you are, but ones with lights and heat are nice for areas that get cold. But, they will need to connect to ductwork to remove the moisture from the home- so you may need to work in plans for ducts. You can't have them just push the moisture in to the attic or interior spaces because it can cause the wood to rot.
I'm assuming you might have some sort of HVAC system set up so you will need to make sure none of the plumbing intersects the ductwork. If you aren't sure how much CFM is needed, you just find the area of the room (length x width) and then multiply that by the height of the ceiling. Then divide that by 7.5 and you get the minimum required CFM for a fan.
My apologies if you knew this already.
Btw, if you want to do the sliding barn door thing, there is a page that tells you how to make one for $50. http://www.paperdaisydesign.com/2015/02/build-it-contemporary-4-panel-barn-door-for-50.html
Last edited:
