Dual head shower

[Remodeler]

I am installing a shower with two heads. Each head will have a seperate pressure balanced valve so that itcan be controlled individually. Each valve will T off of a 3/4 pex for the hot and cold (there is one 3/4 inch hot and one 3/4 cold line that will feed both control valves using the T). Then, out of the valve to the showe head is 1/2.

The question for you experienced guys is would you recommend a loop of some sort with this application prior to the two valves? I know that loops are recommended when using two heads after one valve, but would it be necessary for this animal and how would you do it?

Also, I had fun and ease of using pex for first time. Would you use pex down stream of the valve or go back to copper pipe? The valve has 1/2 threads on the downstream side. I assume you can thread it or solder it? What abou the plug, there is no tub so do you thread the plug or solder?

Thanks for y'alls help

 

[phishfood]

I prefer to use copper for the shower riser. It is not SUCH a major issue on the shower riser, but the restriction of the PEX fittings on a tub spout will cause the shower head to drip when using the tub filler.

 

[stevemachine]

I'd throw a brass cap on the bottom to plug it off. It's the easiest way. Should be 1/2. And pex isn't a big deal. Copper is a bit more solid but I agree pex is so much easier to use. I practically use pex everywhere I can because of ease of use. Just clip it down if you can and screw down your wing back 90s and your set.

 

[stevemachine]

And if each head has its own valve definitely shouldn't need a loop. Just a straight run to the shower head. And I did have another thought about pex for your shower riser, 1/2 pex is actually smaller on the inside than 1/2 copper. The pex is more like 3/8. So you may not get as much flow but I don't know if it would be enough to make a difference for you.

 

[Remodeler]

Thanks for y'all input. Het stevemachine, please explain your terminology for a bayou boy from the south. What is wing back 90's?

 

[Remodeler]

Anyone else have a commit about the necessity of the loop?

 

[phishfood]

Click to get an generic drawing of a wing back 90 or wingell.https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/i...TSiM5CPhehW5FCs0IJaLcOtz3qkMhG15MocJ5z49dzZtQ

 

[phishfood]

I don't think you need a loop, particularly with the 3/4" feed lines.

 

[stevemachine]

Haha phishfood beat me to it but yeah it's either a 90 with a half inch fip by pex or sweat. You can get em in 3/4 but a shower nipple is 1/2. Just throw a few screws into a piece of backing and the wing back, and your set.

 

[stevemachine]

Haha since my last post might not have been totally clear but yeah just use a wingback at the end of your shower riser and then thread on a shower nipple and I use that as a guide for how far into the wall I want my shower riser.

This is an exact picture of the wingback 90 that is typically used-
http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/Drop ear 90.jpg

 

[Remodeler]

Wow....you guys are awesome! Thanks for y'all help

How far to the finished wall do you put the wingback 90? I guess I am trying to picture the shower nipple screwing in after the tile wall is done. Or is it best to wait for the nipple to come in and screw on before?

 

[stevemachine]

What I would do is throw on your drywall, cut out a hole for the nipple and put some t-tape on and put it on hand tight an leave it stubbed out. Then tile around it. I've never had to do tiling and stuff so I don't know if it's easier that way or not but plumbing wise it's your best bet to stub it out and I think I usually go pretty close to the middle of the 2x4 wall, probably better closer than further lol. That should work out well for ya if you do it that way.

 

[phishfood]

I always use a 2x6 (nailed well) set flat to the back of a 2x4 stud wall. That leaves the face of that 2" deep in the wall. The only time I have had a problem with that is when a wall gets triple drywalled and/or some really thick natural stone is used. In that case, longer shower arms are available. And you would be wise to install a 1/2" straight nipple with a cap on it into the wingell, then turn the valve on. This will test every fitting on the riser with the exception of the threaded joint that you will make up when you replace the test nipple with the shower arm after tile. The reason I use a 2x6 and mention nailing it well is that I also use a wingell with 3 screwtabs. Doing this makes for a very solid shower arm that doesn't wiggle when the wife hangs stuff off of it.

 

[stevemachine]

Solid points phishfood. Points taken haha. I like those ideas

 

[Remodeler]

Thanks for y'all time guys. I appreciate it!

 

[stevemachine]

No problem man, glad I could help.