Does this look okay??

Discussion in 'Water Heaters and Softeners' started by luvmyaussy, Feb 13, 2012.

  1. Feb 13, 2012 #1

    luvmyaussy

    luvmyaussy

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    Hello all,

    Am attempting to install a Navien NR210 water heater. Am using the Navien valve kit. Because of new home construction/installation I am very flexable with how to install.

    Here is a picture of the current planned plumbing configuration. I figures since the valve kit uses union type connections I wouldn't need another union on the water lines. Because the copper water supply was so close to the bottom of the heater I decided to plumb direct.

    Haven't soldered anything yet. Any ideas of suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

    Respectfully,

    Jeff

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Feb 13, 2012 #2

    johnjh2o

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    From what I can see it all looks good. What you do need is a drip leg on the gas line. Replace the ell at the bottom of the heater with a tee. Out of the bottom of the tee install a nipple with a cap on it. A 3-4" nipple will do. Other then that your good to go . Great job.

    John
     
  3. Feb 13, 2012 #3

    havasu

    havasu

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    Mine is mounted exactly as yours is, except I was advised to utilize a flexible gas line in lieu of the hard mount line. Also, John is correct. Add a tee to allow the sediment to drop down instead of falling into the gas nozzle. I see yours also has the wired remote. Where are you installing it?
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2012
  4. Feb 13, 2012 #4

    havasu

    havasu

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    Also, don't forget to wrap your water lines to protect from heat loss and to give them a little added protection from unwanted bumps and bangs. I used hard foam pipe wraps with several zip ties to accomplish this.
     
  5. Feb 13, 2012 #5

    luvmyaussy

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    Hello all,

    Thanks for the help. I wondered what a drip leg was used for on a gas line. I threaded and installed my black pipe and the gas company said they weren't necessary but you can bet I'll put one in.

    Wrapped all my water lines both hot and cold with those 6ft. pieces of foam. At least the wife did.

    The water heater is in the utility room of the house.

    Thanks again.

    LMA
     
  6. Feb 13, 2012 #6

    havasu

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    I'm curious how you vented it. Would you like to share with us?
     
  7. Feb 13, 2012 #7

    luvmyaussy

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    Oops. Forgot to list that. Am using a transition kit so only have to cut one opening in the roof. 3" sch. 40 pvc for both exhaust and intake from unit to transition then 4" through roof.

    LMA
     
  8. Feb 14, 2012 #8

    LiQuId

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    if you use teflon tape ( reccomended ) on your black iron connections make sure to leave the first engaging thread bare so the tape does not end up in the line and make sure to use approved ( yellow ) tape.

    looks good.
    :)
     
  9. Feb 14, 2012 #9

    Plumbero007

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    remove Vertical nipple and L-bow. replace L-bow with "T" with extra opening pointing down. Screw 4" nipple pointing down and cap it. When you at this increase length of this vertical nipple by about 1/4" to make horizontal pipe with cut-off valve level.

    THIS IS GREAT JOB, neat and clean.
    congratulations.
     
  10. Feb 14, 2012 #10

    havasu

    havasu

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    I just noticed that you don't have a condensation line installed yet. How are you going to deal with this?
     
  11. Feb 14, 2012 #11

    luvmyaussy

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    Hello,

    LiQuID - Thanks for the heads-up. I used RectoSeal #5 on all threaded black pipe connections (69 with a ratchet threader). Will use the tape so the rectoseal doesnt show. Didn't know about exposing a thread.

    havasu - You beat me to it. I actually commented on that yesterday but my phone went kablooey before I hit post reply. Yes, the condensate line will drain into a laundry tub which will sit just to the right of the water heater. This is the tub:

    [​IMG]

    LMA
     
  12. Feb 14, 2012 #12

    havasu

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    Excellent. My TWH really dumps a lot of condensate and just wanted to forewarn you.
     
  13. Feb 14, 2012 #13

    Another-Plumber

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    simply beautiful
     
  14. Feb 15, 2012 #14

    KULTULZ

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    The installation is so clean that it is almost NASCAR quality.
     
  15. Feb 22, 2012 #15

    plumbingjim17

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    Make sure your on a GFI outlet the one in the photo doesn't appear to be so unless the GFI is tied in somewhere else just thought I would mention looks good though and some local ordinances such as were I am doesn't allow any 90's attached to the T&P Drain tube.

    Ben's Plumbing
    100 E Center St, Provo, UT 84604
    (801) 850-9087 ‎
    benjaminfranklinplumbing.com
     
  16. Dec 20, 2012 #16

    KULTULZ

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    So yellow tape is preferred over pipe dope?

    3rd learned factoid of the day.

    Beautiful Installation! Nice and Neat. ;)
     
  17. Dec 22, 2012 #17

    phishfood

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    I never use just tape, I seem to have more leaks that way. Either just dope, or tape and dope.

    On gas, if you don't have or want to use a gas rated tape, just a good quality dope.
     
  18. Dec 22, 2012 #18

    stevemachine

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    Agreed with phish, dope is just fine as well
     
  19. Dec 28, 2012 #19

    Beni

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    On the drip legs, WAY back in the 1900's, when natural gas was first piped around cities, etc, the gas was considered a wet gas as it had other hydrocarbons in it besides methane. The drip legs were then used to collect the small amount of liquids in the gas. They would then need to be drained from time to time back then too.

    One hundred years forward and most codes and engineering specifications still have drip legs in the natural gas section. Even though the natural gas is very dry. The reality is that 99.9 percent of the time a drip leg is not actually required anymore.
     
  20. Dec 29, 2012 #20

    KULTULZ

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    Can anyone explain to me the purpose of these valves (simply shut-off?) and where to source them?
     

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