Dang arrestor threads keep leaking a tad

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1776Raider

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I finally finished adding the washing machine hook ups and arrestors after overlooking it. Popped a few valves in the process over heating them. They are touchy. Need just enough heat to melt the solder none more. I have been trying for the past three nights to get the one arrestor to not leak. The cold side, front, was fine but the hot, rear, keeps a pin hole leak that takes a few minutes to get a drip. But it’s there. I tried tape with no luck then the dope. Heard people say use tape then dope. I don’t think it’s a matter of me not getting them tight enough, seems I’m about to break the copper from torquing it so much. Backed it out. Cleaned and reapplied the paste with more thicker on the threads. Cleaned to make sure none was in the tube. Tightened in increments after half turn past hand tight. Swore I had it. Came back after work yesterday and it was a small drip. So I turned the washer on and got it hot and turned it a little more and it actually leaked more. Backed of 1/8 turn and I swore, again, it worked. We’ll I checked again now and it had the tiniest bit of wet so I dried that and tested with dry rag and it draws water. Should I go buy another arrestor for new threads? Is there some magic I’m unaware of? Would hate to waste a good arrestor for user error.
 

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It’s either the arrestor or the copper fip threads that are defective.

You’ll have to figure out which and replace it.

Some joints look ok, some don’t. It can be hard to tell by looking.
 
Is it possible your threads are fine but the arrester is leaking? Where is the water coming from, is it welling up from the threaded fitting, or dripping down from the body of the arrester?
 
Is it possible your threads are fine but the arrester is leaking? Where is the water coming from, is it welling up from the threaded fitting, or dripping down from the body of the arrester?
The leak is very small but definitely just up from the threads. Takes a very long time to get a little pool developing in the thread depression
 
It’s either the arrestor or the copper fip threads that are defective.

You’ll have to figure out which and replace it.

Some joints look ok, some don’t. It can be hard to tell by looking.
I’m afraid it’s the fip that is defective. The leak is always in the same spot. I’m gonna try another arrestor and if worse come to worse at least the valve is there now so it’s easy to flush the lines. I do have a hell of a time unsoldering joints. Some come off with a bit of persuasion, others for some reason need two channel locks. Seems I have to get them hotter than heck to get ‘em to liquify. Hopefully this fip comes off easier than the tee for the pex did. Is that discoloration on the tees somewhat normal or should try to heat the joint more evenly?
 
The leak is very small but definitely just up from the threads. Takes a very long time to get a little pool developing in the thread depression
Then either the male or female threads are wonky on that one side. Try swapping them and seeing which one leaks, then you know if you have a bad arrester or a bad FIP adapter.
 
Just solder up 1/2" x 12" copper air chambers....done!
What keeps the air in them from eventually dissolving into the water and rendering them inoperative? If there's air in your water they ought to refill with air, but if not, you'll want the commercial arresters with a bladder, no?
 
What keeps the air in them from eventually dissolving into the water and rendering them inoperative? If there's air in your water they ought to refill with air, but if not, you'll want the commercial arresters with a bladder, no?
To restore the air in the air chambers, you need to shut the water down and drain your potable water system. Simple, but it works!
 
If it takes a few minutes to get one drip I would just put a pan under it and wait a month, I have had leaks that small seal up over time!
 
I guess I’ll wait a few more weeks and see where it goes. At least it won’t be terribly difficult to replace if push comes to shove. Thanks for the advice!
 

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