Cutting Plastic Pipe

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blitz

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Anyone use the Ridgid or Reed quick release cutters with plastic cutting wheels for pvc or abs?

My co-worker has Reed's as they top out at 3" they are the TC4Q. If that's the case, should the TC6Q's be able to handle 6"?
 
I have not seen plastic pipe cutters with wheels. I use the ratchet type (Ridgid) but only for 2" and below. Since i don't use the larger pipe much, I have a handsaw for cutting. Going by the numbers, I would agree that the one you mentioned would cut 6" pipe.
 
My TC3 cuts 3" just fine. I think you've got something out of whack. :confused:
 
I use a reciprocating saw. With a bit of practice you can make very straight cuts fast.
 
i use a combo of cutters, chop saw for rough ins and top outs. recip saw for small jobs, ratchet cutter for small pipe and a rigid cutter with pvc blade for finish work( less mess to clean up and more precise) never use hack saw though thats for non plumbers lol
 
anyone try the Milwaukee M12 PVC Cutter and if so what have you thought of it? I have one but the jury is still out on how well it works
On short pieces it will explode the pipe.
Longer pieces it works OK but takes practice to get a good square cut
 
I have been wanting to try one of those out. But when I look at the price tag, my mongo ratchet cutters, cordless Sawzall, and yes, even my unprofessional hacksaw win out.
 
I too use the unprofessional hacksaw. Straight cuts are no problem and the blades are cheaper and last much longer.

I've tried all the others and they just don't last and a few cuts and they are getting dull.
 
Subject to the type of project which needs to be accomplished and the site of the job, cut off saws make plenty of sense. If the workspace is open enough, you may benefit from employing a stationary cut off saw.
 
When we were doing massive amounts of residential tract homes and had a ton of pipe to install, I would always use the Reed quick cutters. They fit in a tool pouch and could cut plastic pipe in 2-3 turns, nice and quick! :)
 
On new work we use a chop saw. It's just a standard miter saw with a fine tooth carbide blade install backwards in the saw. Makes a clean square cut with no burs. It's also a lot cheaper then the Ridgid chop saw.

John
 
johnjh2o said:
On new work we use a chop saw. It's just a standard miter saw with a fine tooth carbide blade install backwards in the saw. Makes a clean square cut with no burs. It's also a lot cheaper then the Ridgid chop saw.

John
Click to expand...

Thanks for that tip. I'm learning as I go, but this weekend I had to install some pvc for a new project at my house, and I remembered reading this post. I flipped the blade on my chop saw (that we'd been using to do my buddy's floor), and was making straight cuts on the 3" pipe thus making me feel a whole lot better about things rather than the jagged cuts I was getting from my sawzall.
I learn something everytime I come here. Thanks to all of you!
Ross
 
to the Op: 6" pipe cutters? anytime i've used 6" or larger i;ve used a gang saw ( gas powered chopsaw ) I too think youve got something out of wack here.

thouge there are big enough cutters to do the job of 6" its not worth the time invested.

I use a cutting wheel for finish work inside homes where i dont want the mess of saw shavings, but like the others on here I often cut pipe with a hacksaw, thats for no BS plumbers IMO

... I also am pretty fond of my M-18 milwuakee haczall.

To cydewater: I had the m-12 for a while, I found that the cuts were often not straight, and that like you mnentioned it would break smaller pieces. It worked okay for abs 1 1/2 but I cannot justify the tool as it goes through batteries and cuts fairly poorly even with a sharp blade, so it was sold.

M-12 impact driver is however the very best way ( again IMO ) to place a screw or secure an MJ and for 100 bucks comes woth the perfect drill to be an electric fitting brush. :)
 
johnjh2o said:
On new work we use a chop saw. It's just a standard miter saw with a fine tooth carbide blade install backwards in the saw. Makes a clean square cut with no burs. It's also a lot cheaper then the Ridgid chop saw.

John
Click to expand...


I will be interested to try this out, thanks for the idea.
 
After some practice, a sawzall with a good blade is perfect for quick cuts on anything under 4". Obviously if you on a new construction job or a big rough in, a chop saw is pratical, But i still prefer my sawzall.
 
I do undergrounds to finish work with my hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade. Ive been searching for an alternative though, i dont really want to carry a chopsaw around to hook up a sink.
 
Mostly I preffered hacksaw as a pipie cutting tool. Even the expert uses one when they need to make more detailed cuts or simple adjustments.
 
Matt30 said:
I do undergrounds to finish work with my hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade. Ive been searching for an alternative though, i dont really want to carry a chopsaw around to hook up a sink.
Click to expand...

32tpi ??? try an 18 man, you cut waaay faster, and still just as straight if you have it tensioned.
:)
 
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