Cut out fiberglass shower tub enclosure to find leak behind shower wall then repair.

[M B]

Have a Moen Shower cover plate model 1920 but it is not enough room to see and repair leak behind wall. What are options​

The oversized Moen 1920 is not enough room to work nor get in to see where leak is back there.
It is a one piece shower tub fiberglass unit so most likely need to cut out one to two feet possibly to get a good look and repair leak. What are options after that to cover or repair cut out fiberglass section. THanks

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d just replace the unit. Other than that you could maybe pay someone to patch the fiberglass.

 

[Geofd]

There are some good fiberglass people out there just do your research on the companies were picking from

 

[GymBag]

Have a Moen Shower cover plate model 1920 but it is not enough room to see and repair leak behind wall. What are options​

The oversized Moen 1920 is not enough room to work nor get in to see where leak is back there.
It is a one piece shower tub fiberglass unit so most likely need to cut out one to two feet possibly to get a good look and repair leak. What are options after that to cover or repair cut out fiberglass section. THanks

If you want to find a leak or look into walls for other reasons, look into buying an endoscope camera- Amazon has them for about $25. It plugs into a smart phone or laptop computer and allows you to go through a gap of about 1/4". I have two- one that came with a magnetic grabber that detaches and the smaller one that I bought more recently. Both have lights on the end with a dimmer.

 

[Ludington]

Not to get off Subject, but I bought one of those to look inside my washing machine drain stack.
I could never get it to turn to go through the p trap. It's flexible / stiff enough to do it, but just won't go .
I'm wondering if there is any tricks to it ?

 

[GymBag]

Not to get off Subject, but I bought one of those to look inside my washing machine drain stack.
I could never get it to turn to go through the p trap. It's flexible / stiff enough to do it, but just won't go .
I'm wondering if there is any tricks to it ?

Maybe the leading edge of the tip was catching on the pipe at the turn- if it wasn't expensive, you might be able to sand the edge so it doesn't have a sharp corner or use Super Glue (Cyanocrylate) to create a ring at the tip that can be sanded smooth. I use the type that works with an accelerator spray, but I also have some that uses UV light to cure- I got that at Ace Hardware and it was about $11. By collecting their coupons in the Ace app, adding that to what I was buying raised the total to more than $20 and the coupon discount was $7 on a purchase of $20 or more- I didn't really need it but the discount made it worth buying.

If you or someone you know ties their own flies for fishing, accelerated CNA is probably available already.