Cracked Valves

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Andy49

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As the picture shows, I have two cracked valves which I plan to go to a sprinkler supply store get the replacements. I am wondering if I should add unions in the PVC supply runs since everything is 'hardwired' and no way to remove replace without cutting the pipe.
 

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Or just replace and insulate when Temps drop below freezing. There are unions, but in my experience, they are prone to leaks.
 
I always install union by union. But, I live where there is fairly high probability of freezing. When I was in Las Vegas, I never needed to remove and replace a valve. I just rebuilt the body in place. I kept a couple of spare valves on hand, because the complete valve with new solenoid cost less on sale in the spring than either the solenoid or diaphraGM by themselves as repair parts.
 
I do need to insulate the system. Do it early when the materials are plentiful at the big box stores. I did not do a good job of draining the system either.
 
I keep a 3/4 and 1” valve on my van just incase I get to a customers house and their “ leak “ ends up being a bad valve on the irrigation.

Some homeowners don’t know what’s leaking, they see water and they call. But since I’m there, I’ll replace it. But I normally don’t service irrigation,
 
I have run into a slight problem. I can't locate the shutoff to the sprinkler backflow assembly. I don't want to turn off the water to the whole house, simple reason being that if I run into rebuilding the manifold (not plumber or a very good handyman), I don't want to be without water for hours. (I think two and a half weeks were enough for us). So my plan is to turn off water to the house at the meter and install another 1" PVCSprinkler Manifold.jpg
ball valve. That way I can mess around with the manifold and still have water to the house. A picture is attached. I am not sure if I am making a bigger deal out of it than it needs to be.
 
Sure do look like a ballvalve without the handle that you circled to me, at the bottom of the circle. The 6 o’clock position. 🤷‍♂️

I can’t see the first pic in this thread. Is that the valves that are cracked ?

To answer your question you can sure install that valve there. No problem. That valve is not very good quality but it will serve its purpose for now.
 
I can’t get over how they just bring pvc up out of the ground on the side of houses in Texas. I bet that stuff gets broken all the time. Dogs, kids, lawnmowers, whatever.
 
Funny thing is ( not really) that the metal valves crack before the PVC
 
I assume that PVC pipe gives when the water inside freezes but the metal valve does not.
 
Looks like the shut offs are there. They generally come with them??


View attachment 28645

I think it’s those valves that froze and broke. He’s trying to replace the entire assembly but wants to install a valve so he can isolate the irrigation so it will not disrupt his main house water.

He only has one cut off valve that works and it’s cuts all his water off.
 
Got it. My entire valve body developed a minor (meaning barely visible but that doesn't really matter now, does it) crack one winter; and don't know why. We followed the same procedure every September for winterization by the same people and I was there. Water shut off inside the home. Entire system blown out. Valve blown out. All valves outside the home were open or partially so; and there was a "boiler drain" on the system where they connected the air line for blow out, and that was open too.

No matter; one cold winter the unit cracked.

So, if things got so cold as to cause the shutoff one or both to crack, may consider thoroughly checking it out prior to investing in a lot of repair work when you may need a new one.

In Michigan all was fitted with 1" copper. When I replaced mine I added two universals to make subsequent future replacement a snap.
 
Yes, unions...and threaded ones in case those ever need changing! [For some reason I always refer to them as universals. I don't know why, as they are anything but universal] But, yes, I added one on the entry side (after the pipe shut off from the house, NOT the built-in one on the vacuum breaker unit) and then again after the shutoff on the exit side before the pipe went back into the ground and on to the valve box.

FWIW here in NC it is code that all irrigation backflows (vacuum breakers not allowed, must be dual RPZ) must have an insulated box around them. It is also required that the irrigation line from the city water meter to the backflow be 24" below ground. Seems a bit deep but whatever.
 
Yes, unions...and threaded ones in case those ever need changing! [For some reason I always refer to them as universals. I don't know why, as they are anything but universal] But, yes, I added one on the entry side (after the pipe shut off from the house, NOT the built-in one on the vacuum breaker unit) and then again after the shutoff on the exit side before the pipe went back into the ground and on to the valve box.

FWIW here in NC it is code that all irrigation backflows (vacuum breakers not allowed, must be dual RPZ) must have an insulated box around them. It is also required that the irrigation line from the city water meter to the backflow be 24" below ground. Seems a bit deep but whatever.
I think They want it deep to help protect it from a person damaging it . I don’t think your frost line is near 24”.

Here they put RPZ for a house irrigation in a box 6” below the ground. The service provider installs it. 😐
 
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Yes, unions...and threaded ones in case those ever need changing! [For some reason I always refer to them as universals. I don't know why, as they are anything but universal] But, yes, I added one on the entry side (after the pipe shut off from the house, NOT the built-in one on the vacuum breaker unit) and then again after the shutoff on the exit side before the pipe went back into the ground and on to the valve box.

FWIW here in NC it is code that all irrigation backflows (vacuum breakers not allowed, must be dual RPZ) must have an insulated box around them. It is also required that the irrigation line from the city water meter to the backflow be 24" below ground. Seems a bit deep but whatever.
Sounds like a good idea to include unions. Someone else had mentioned unioned valve. However, the whole backflow comes assembled. Someone also commented that unions could possibly be a leak source in the future.
 
Sounds like a good idea to include unions. Someone else had mentioned unioned valve. However, the whole backflow comes assembled. Someone also commented that unions could possibly be a leak source in the future.
I don’t use them unless it’s installed on pipe where maintenance occurs on a regular basis. That’s just my choice.
 

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