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Corroded Stuck Tub Drain

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jesshayden

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Hi all! Trying to remove my tub drain. I bought this extractor tool below and these photos are where I am in the process. It seems things are warping instead of unscrewing. Do I continue to use the tool as the drain breaks apart or do I risk damaging the drain? Also, FYI I did try a hair dryer to heat it up first.

 

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Geofd

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The tool you show removes the threaded strainer,it threads into what you are showing now the rest is accessed from below or thru an access panel there are threaded nuts that loosen for removal
 

jesshayden

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Thanks!! Your reply is really appreciated. I’m just trying to remove the top part and replace with the flange below. Not the lower drain. From the pics I posted does it look like I will cause damage continuing to use the tool? So far it has bent the metal but not actually turning on the threads. The chrome top rim/ring detached from it already and I just pryed it off.

 

Jeff Handy

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SHEPLMBR is right, the drain flange is already off now.

Geofd is right.
The rest has to be accessed from the ceiling or basement or crawlspace below, or sometimes you can get to it from the other side of the tub wall in the next room or a closet.

What you are doing now has destroyed the threads of the drain, and it also looks like you are starting to destroy the tub surface which the drain flange needs to seal against.

Call a pro, before you end up needing a whole new tub.
 
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jesshayden

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No the flange is still in there. Only the top ring came off. The threading there is from the tool teeth. It’s super corroded & stuck. There’s no way to twist. Needs to be cut out. And yes, from what it seems all plumbers just want to replace it or build a shower. But I prefer to cut it out and then reglaze it for a rental.
 

Jeff Handy

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What you are saying makes no sense.
You should hire someone, you don’t know what you are doing, to be blunt, sorry.

You have destroyed the threads that would have accepted the new lift and turn stopper from Lowes.

If you are saying you also want to remove the shoe, the drain assembly under the tub, you cannot magically extract that up through the drain hole.

This whole thread makes no sense whatsoever.
 

Jeff Handy

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Maybe the piece you are still trying to extract is an adapter bushing.

But you are wrecking your tub, time to call a pro.
 

Geofd

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No the flange is still in there. Only the top ring came off. The threading there is from the tool teeth. It’s super corroded & stuck. There’s no way to twist. Needs to be cut out. And yes, from what it seems all plumbers just want to replace it or build a shower. But I prefer to cut it out and then reglaze it for a rental.
Is the peice loose from the tub???
 

Geofd

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If it's loose just get another waste and overflow kit and change the whole thing,
If you gotta cut sheet rock out to get to it
That's what you gotta do put an access panel where the trap is then you will have an easier time snaking the drain
 

jesshayden

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@ Jeff Handy. Noted. Clearly I don’t know or wouldn’t be on the thread. I plan on turning this into a tile shower but came here for any creative ideas before that $5k investment.

For anyone else, it had the cross bars on it that were corroded and falling off so I know it’s part of the drain or original apparatus. The issue is echoed here in this link and tons of others: Remove frozen bathtub drain
I just came here for real time solutions in case they are available. Or educate myself so as to not be taken advantage of by a contractor.

Thanks!
 

jesshayden

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If it's loose just get another waste and overflow kit and change the whole thing,
If you gotta cut sheet rock out to get to it
That's what you gotta do put an access panel where the trap is then you will have an easier time snaking the drain
Its is the adapter brushing and unfortunately it’s not loose. I had a plumber who mentioned it might need to be cut out. I think replacing with a new kit is a good idea but it can only be accessed on the other side of the wall - and we will have to remove my stove to access it.

It’s a 1.5” drain and a new one won’t fit obviously since the original is still in there. Would it be possible to find a smaller drain and simply put inside of this and seal somehow?
 

Jeff Handy

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Wow, if you had told us that up front, you would have gotten better and more targeted answers.

Everyone on here likes to help.

Keep your questions coming.

Sorry for trying to pin you down, but now we know what you need and you will get better ideas.
 

Geofd

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Its is the adapter brushing and unfortunately it’s not loose. I had a plumber who mentioned it might need to be cut out. I think replacing with a new kit is a good idea but it can only be accessed on the other side of the wall - and we will have to remove my stove to access it.

It’s a 1.5” drain and a new one won’t fit obviously since the original is still in there. Would it be possible to find a smaller drain and simply put inside of this and seal somehow?
You could use a Dremel tool to cut the remaining lip off the it will be loose
Then when you move your stove and make you hole then it all should come out, you could just replace the shoe part but if it's open make it all new
 

TomFOhio

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We usually use a sawzall to cut the drain out of the threads. You have to do it very slowly and a little bit at a
time. Don't cut into the threads of the shoe or the tub itself. If you can get it cut, then pry it out very easily.
Then pipe dope the threads of your new one and screw it in.
 

jesshayden

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Or...you could try something like this.
Nufit(R) Lift And Turn Tub Closure: Drain Stoppers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
It goes right over the existing flange .

I have used them a number of times over the years, where there is no access and I have concerns about drain pipes.
Thank you!! Man, I’ve been trying to saw and gently pry this thing out as carefully as possible and it just seems impossible without causing damage. I can’t get the leverage without risking denting the threads or chipping the tub opening. It’s really in there. I haven’t tried the dremel yet.

I think I’ll ultimately try this solution until I decide to replace. Will this work if the lip of the existing flange has already been removed though? I’m imagining that is what it needs to be adhered too. Or can it work with putty? Thanks again!
 
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