correct size sharkbite fitting for copper pipe

[giwatcher]

West TN home built in 1983. Heat is out. My toilet water line is apparently frozen due to current weather. It is the only water line that goes from the crawl space thru the external wall rather than up from the ground and interior to the wall. It has not thawed yet and I have mounds of snow and ice to get access to the crawl space. When thaw occurs I will be unable to get plumber help due to catestrophic weather issues. I am hoping to cut the line and cap with sharkbite so that I can have water elsewhere. No solder skills, and now isn't the time to learn.
My question is-- I am confused by pipe sizing. Can I expect the line to the toilet to be 1/2", 3/4" or other as it relates to sharkbite fitting sizes? I am under the impression that my meter supply is 1" pvc, and that it is customary for the line to water heater to be 3/4", and feeds elsewhere are 1/2". If I am forced to go under the house and remove the pipe wrap to measure, what external diameter can I expect for these sizes? Yes, if I can make it to the HD, I can buy both adapters if they are in stock, but what if neither size is correct?
Urgent help needed and much appreciated.

 

[sarg]

This is the Sharkbite page for copper & PVC caps.

https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-caps

 

[giwatcher]

This is the Sharkbite page for copper & PVC caps.

https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-caps

I appreciate the reply from a forum member whose name I recognize as a regular contributor. Please reread my post and you will see I am trying to predict the size fitting I need based on customary applications of copper pipe to a toilet. Access is difficult and I don't want to remove the pipe wrap to get a look. Do you or someone know if toilets are usually piped in 1983 with 1/2" or 3/4 copper or other? If I unwrap and measure the outer diam, how does this relate to what the proper fitting is called size-wise?

I found and old post by Breplum where he said 1/2 pipe is insufficient, but maybe not for this application?

 

[sarg]

I would guess 1/2" .... that would be usual if copper was used ........ but it's only a guess. Pipes could have been altered numerous times over 38 years.
1/2 " copper O.D. is .625 (5/8") and 3/4 copper measures .875. (7/8") ( Can be identified visually )
The Sharkbite U514LF = 1/2" copper cap. ( Compatible with PEX, copper, CPVC, PE-RT and HDPE pipe. ) This excludes poly B - polybutylene pipes usually used in mobile homes of the '83 era.
A U518LF would be for 3/4" copper.
The cut will have to be cleanly done i.e. with the tubing / pipe cutter for the cap to be effective. I'm assuming you are speaking of the supply line that is routed and dedicated to the toilet supply.
I/2 " is more than adequate for that application and I suspect Breplum was speaking of another demand.

 

[giwatcher]

Thank you, sarg. If I understand you, copper pipe called 1/2" actually looks on the outside to be 5/8", so we are referring to the inside diam. Therefore, the sharbite is called 1/2 in to match the internal diam, even though we see the outer diam of the pipe. Is it me, or is this illogical?

 

[sarg]

Thank you, sarg. If I understand you, copper pipe called 1/2" actually looks on the outside to be 5/8", so we are referring to the inside diam. Therefore, the sharbite is called 1/2 in to match the internal diam, even though we see the outer diam of the pipe. Is it me, or is this illogical?

Much of the plumbing world seems illogical to novices like me ......... but to those in the game it makes perfect sense over time. There are three types of copper pipe and they have different I/d dimensions .... but are all called 1/2" copper. K, L & M ...... the difference is the wall thickness.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Plumbers go by internal diameter.

Please remember that frozen copper expands and can and will change the outside diameter of the piping and this will cause the fittings to not fit......

If you encounter this and want to use a push fit type sharkbite fitting, you will need to find pipe that hasn’t been frozen and expanded.

If you’re using a torch you resize the copper and solder your fitting in.

 

[giwatcher]

Plumbers go by internal diameter.

Please remember that frozen copper expands and can and will change the outside diameter of the piping and this will cause the fittings to not fit......

If you encounter this and want to use a push fit type sharkbite fitting, you will need to find pipe that hasn’t been frozen and expanded.

If you’re using a torch you resize the copper and solder your fitting in.

I didn't think of that. Good point, Get far enough away from the split to get to healthy pipe. By the way, I have noticed you are new to the forum, and you are contributing quite a lot of useful info in a short time. Thanks for that, and welcome!

 

[RS]

I did some freeze repair on an old house once, the copper was all stretched. I used 5/8 automotive heater hose and double clamps on both ends.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I did some freeze repair on an old house once, the copper was all stretched. I used 5/8 automotive heater hose and double clamps on both ends.

It works sometimes for a while. I find that stuff failing for a couple years after a freeze. Temporary repairs that people forget about.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I used a piece of it to connect my old well tank to my front hose bib, after the previous kludged connection that I had inherited rotted away.
It was there at least ten years until I moved out.
That clear vinyl tubing with the mesh strings inside is also good for short term here to there fixes.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I used a piece of it to connect my old well tank to my front hose bib, after the previous kludged connection that I had inherited rotted away.
It was there at least ten years until I moved out.
That clear vinyl tubing with the mesh strings inside is also good for short term here to there fixes.

With copper you can clean the split then use pliers to squeeze the split back together then solder it up. .

We did that when we ran out of fittings.