Cedarcreekstables
Member
I will research a possible alternative that may work.
Converting to PEX
- Thread starter Cedarcreekstables
- Start date
Help Support Plumbing Forums:
FishScreener
Well-Known Member
In most states, there should be a stainless steel tag welded to the well casing, to identify the well. And, the State should have a website you can look up your well data on. That site should have the drillers log from you well, which will tell you how deep it is, what soils they went through when drilling it, and how much it produced when they tested it. Your pump controller should have a tag from the pump manufacturer on it, giving the manufacturer name, the model number, horsepower and normally how many gum it should produce at what head. If you hav just a model number, you can usually look up all the pump data from the pump number.
FishScreener
Well-Known Member
Can you post some photos?
Cedarcreekstables
Member
Thank you, I will look for it and see what I find.
Cedarcreekstables
Member
I will gather some photos and post them.
The horse watering lines for the 20 stalls could be piped with a 1” feed and 1/2” branch lines to each stall.
I’d install 1.5” pvc underground then come out of the ground to each sprinkler head with 1” PEX for dust control.
This would allow all the sprinklers to run together and have plenty of water for future expansion.
It would also reduce the velocity of the water and make the system last longer.
I’d install 1.5” pvc underground then come out of the ground to each sprinkler head with 1” PEX for dust control.
This would allow all the sprinklers to run together and have plenty of water for future expansion.
It would also reduce the velocity of the water and make the system last longer.
Cedarcreekstables
Member
My Barn, otherwise known as my sanctuary. Last photo is of my She Shed I built 2 yrs ago. Putting on the shake siding. I’m sure this photo is not OSHA approved. Haha
Attachments
Stainless steel pex crimp fittings are available. So are bronze. I dont use the plastic pex fittings. I dont use brass
Fittings with well water.
Fittings with well water.
Cedarcreekstables
Member
Thank you for that piece of advise. I will use the stainless steel or bronze for sure.
Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
Ahh, OK...freezing. Well some of my experience with car wash systems may help.
In a car wash, (the self serve variety with STALLS) freezing is always an issue and there are and were a large number of tricks and techniques used--and well proven might I add and some of these may work for you.
All of the overhead lines--and I had miles of them--were laying in a heated and insulated trough. (are you getting the idea that there is some similarity already? I've used the words Stall and Trough. While many similar systems used a simple small water heater, for mine the heat came from our domestic hot water system; we had a small circulator pump, a thermostat, and a small plate style heat exchanger. There was a small set of pass/bypass valves that kept a small flow of hot water constantly in the heat exchanger, but we could turn that off in spring when it was no longer needed. The other side of the heat exchanger was connected to a hot water certified hose; that hose was over 200' in length that sat inside the trough. Just a slow circulation of hot water in that hose kept the trough, which ran in the unheated "attic" space of the car wash building, plenty toasty so nothing could freeze in the trough. Certain of the car wash functions such as the high-pressure wand had a "weep system" controlled by a small device called a "weep mizer" that metered small amounts of hot water through the line to keep it from freezing. Some of the more sophisticated equipment had an air purge as well. So after use, high-pressure air would blow out the lines.
So there is some commonality. If there is a car wash supplier in your area you may consider giving them a call, this is the kind of thing that's right up their alley to solve.
In a car wash, (the self serve variety with STALLS) freezing is always an issue and there are and were a large number of tricks and techniques used--and well proven might I add and some of these may work for you.
All of the overhead lines--and I had miles of them--were laying in a heated and insulated trough. (are you getting the idea that there is some similarity already? I've used the words Stall and Trough. While many similar systems used a simple small water heater, for mine the heat came from our domestic hot water system; we had a small circulator pump, a thermostat, and a small plate style heat exchanger. There was a small set of pass/bypass valves that kept a small flow of hot water constantly in the heat exchanger, but we could turn that off in spring when it was no longer needed. The other side of the heat exchanger was connected to a hot water certified hose; that hose was over 200' in length that sat inside the trough. Just a slow circulation of hot water in that hose kept the trough, which ran in the unheated "attic" space of the car wash building, plenty toasty so nothing could freeze in the trough. Certain of the car wash functions such as the high-pressure wand had a "weep system" controlled by a small device called a "weep mizer" that metered small amounts of hot water through the line to keep it from freezing. Some of the more sophisticated equipment had an air purge as well. So after use, high-pressure air would blow out the lines.
So there is some commonality. If there is a car wash supplier in your area you may consider giving them a call, this is the kind of thing that's right up their alley to solve.
Cedarcreekstables
Member
Pictures posted
Cedarcreekstables
Member
I think I may have found an alternative to the water guzzling sprinkler heads. This system works on 40/60 psi
https://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;;pg107729.html
Cedarcreekstables
Member
Thank You, I will check into that.
Layout with draining for winter factored in is a must in your situation.
Yep and temper and circulate it for the horses.
The sprinkler could be piped to drain after each use with a simple solenoid that opens. No fancy equipment needed.
Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
In addition to Dultmeir, you already discovered FarmTek.
Other car wash suppliers that you may look at:
https://www.kleen-ritecorp.comhttps://www.superiorcarwashsupply.com/car-wash-parts-and-accessories
https://carsonteam.com/about-us/
The last link is a noted car wash supply and service firm in Portland. They'd be familiar with many of the things you may see in the supplier catalogs and online and now to build and implement them. My own opinion is I'd go overhead not bury; much easier to service. Heated overhead trough, air purge system, etc.
My car wash was in the upper great lakes area, and it got considerably colder than it does in Oregon. I used 100,000 gallons of water a month and yes, had to keep it all from freezing for 6 months out of the year.
I’m assuming the barn is heated or how else are you keeping the horses auto water bucket from freezing?
Some of the main line must be buried. Or is the well located in the barn ?
Some of the main line must be buried. Or is the well located in the barn ?
Last edited:
I just read where this will double as fire suppression.
How do you use the water for fire suppression ? Do you have sprinkler heads for fire ?
How do you use the water for fire suppression ? Do you have sprinkler heads for fire ?
Cedarcreekstables
Member
Yes, that system is on a dry hydrant with a pump in our pond. I can switch the pump on and open a valve that will flow to the fire sprinkler system. That system is underground except where it hooks into sprinkler system and where the fire department hooks into it. Thank god I have never had to use it, but also thankful we had it installed.
Cedarcreekstables
Member
The well is located about 50 yards from the barn and The main line is underground. I have never had a problem with that. My barn is not heated, but when all the doors are closed and sealed up, the heat generated from the horses keeps the barn waterers flowing. They do get a film of ice on them, but the horses usually keep it clear when they drink. The waterers are located just below the stall isle windows. Most horses like to stick their heads out and look around, which puts there body in close proximity to the waterers and the heat they generate keeps the waterers from freezing.
