can I go straight into a wye like this?

[robbie0202]

I am doing this plumbing for my second story, this is the master bathroom. the farthest is the toilet, the middle is free standing tub and the closest is a shower.
so my question is am I able to lay by wye down like I am and go straight into it instead of adding a 45 to it? In my head it looks like it will flow better because of less restriction. But that may just be my head telling me stories! lol

 

[Twowaxhack]

The shower and tub are fine but that sanitary tee on it’s back for the toilet is incorrect.

 

[robbie0202]

The shower and tub are fine but that sanitary tee on it’s back for the toilet is incorrect.

can you explain why it is incorrect and what I should do to correct it.
I have it where it comes down and I reduced the back hole down to a 2" and made it a vent.
would it be ok if I switched it to this?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Sanitary tees on their backs that accept waste are illegal. And unless the vent is washed by a fixture, the toilet vent would also be illegal, because it’s flat. It should be no less than 45 degrees.

So, does the toilet vent serve as a wet vent ?

 

[robbie0202]

Sanitary tees on their backs that accept waste are illegal. And unless the vent is washed by a fixture, the toilet vent would also be illegal, because it’s flat. It should be no less than 45 degrees.

So, does the toilet vent serve as a wet

Would this fitting work in place for the toilet?
I use it as a vent for the toilet. At the other end of the line I have another vent that is for the shower and tub. I wanted to use the toilet vent for all 3 but the shower is more the 6feet away so I added the one at the end.

 

[MicEd69]

The toilet can be a simple 90, but it is better to use a long radius 90; the red marks.

A vent needs to come off the drain line vertically or no more than 45 degrees off vertical. The purple marks. Depending on how an inspector reads the code, this can be done with a Sanitary tee on its back. Just roll is at 45 degrees towards the existing vent line, add a street 45, and you will have a proper vent for the toilet.

If your inspector misinterprets the code, IMHO, they will say you need to use a wye instead of a Sanitary tee. That will just require more height which looks like you may not have without lowering your line. But if you can fit that in, that would eliminate any disagreements that may happen upon inspection.

I am also quite concerned about the joist that just ends with no support. The perpendicular blocking 2x10s (?) offers NO support to that joist. What is the plan to support that open end of the joist?

 

[robbie0202]

Ok that makes perfect sense. What i plan on doing with the joist is going straight across and using hangers to connect to the joist next to it.

 

[MicEd69]

Ok that makes perfect sense. What i plan on doing with the joist is going straight across and using hangers to connect to the joist next to it.

You will have a pretty big hole in that cross piece for the drain line. I've used 3" steel channels before to cut large sections of 2x10 joists for various clearances. But I don't think you have that much space above or below the drain line. You may want to consider using a 1/4" steel plate with a hole cut in it for the drain line. I would suggest installing that when you cut the main drain line to install the vent line, so the plate is installed as one piece. I've not done any calcs to verify a 1/4" plate would work here, but I'm thinking it would work.

 

[robbie0202]

You will have a pretty big hole in that cross piece for the drain line. I've used 3" steel channels before to cut large sections of 2x10 joists for various clearances. But I don't think you have that much space above or below the drain line. You may want to consider using a 1/4" steel plate with a hole cut in it for the drain line. I would suggest installing that when you cut the main drain line to install the vent line, so the plate is installed as one piece. I've not done any calcs to verify a 1/4" plate would work here, but I'm thinking it would work.

So i did the toilet with a 90 sweep and the vent i was not able to go full vertical. But its over 45 to the top.
What do you think?
And i think for where i cut the joist i am going to cut another 2x12 right next to it and put a hole for the vent pipe. Do you think that would be good enough. And i will glue it and put bolts every 6".

 

[MicEd69]

The plumbing looks good, and I like the sistering of the joist.

I couldn't tell if those were 2x10s or 2x12s. Just because I haven't done any calculations, I would suggest adding a 2x8 alongside the 2x12 piece that you are adding. Go back at least 4 feet from the cut end with the 2x12 with your new 2x12 and 2x8. Align the 2x8 with the bottom of the joist. Use a good glue and bolt the assembly together. Stagger the bolts along the top and bottom of your "splice", maybe 2 1/2" from the edge. Every 6" is good but staggering them means that the spacing of the bolts along the top and bottom will be 12". I usually just buy some 1/2 all thread, cut it to length, and use nuts and flat washers on both sides. I don't use lock washers on wood-to-wood connections.

 

[Pipe Dreams]

I am doing this plumbing for my second story, this is the master bathroom. the farthest is the toilet, the middle is free standing tub and the closest is a shower.
so my question is am I able to lay by wye down like I am and go straight into it instead of adding a 45 to it? In my head it looks like it will flow better because of less restriction. But that may just be my head telling me stories! lol

sure, but 'flow restriction" will not be an issue with a street 45 in the wye........not one bit of an issue.......the issue I see is in the cut joist.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Would this fitting work in place for the toilet?
I use it as a vent for the toilet. At the other end of the line I have another vent that is for the shower and tub. I wanted to use the toilet vent for all 3 but the shower is more the 6feet away so I added the one at the end.

You could use the heel inlet 90 under the toilet with the heel inlet in the horizontal position as needed in this instance if the heel inlet is a wet vent.


You can install the heel inlet as a vent with the heel inlet in the vertical position as a dry vent.

Tees on their backs should be avoided and every experienced drain cleaning professional would agree. Some codes haven’t caught up yet.

 

[Twowaxhack]

So i did the toilet with a 90 sweep and the vent i was not able to go full vertical. But its over 45 to the top.
What do you think?
And i think for where i cut the joist i am going to cut another 2x12 right next to it and put a hole for the vent pipe. Do you think that would be good enough. And i will glue it and put bolts every 6".

Unless your toilet vent is washed it isn’t legal. Do lavatories drain through that toilet vent ?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Contact your inspection office for guidance before you do anything.

I’d hate for you to spend a lot of time repairing the structure only for the framing inspector to fail it.

Same with the plumbing. However I did look up North Carolina plumbing code for the advice I gave you.

 

[Pipe Dreams]

Would this fitting work in place for the toilet?
I use it as a vent for the toilet. At the other end of the line I have another vent that is for the shower and tub. I wanted to use the toilet vent for all 3 but the shower is more the 6feet away so I added the one at the end.

Yes, I use that fitting all the time, in NC. There is another type, known as a "side inlet closet bend" which the 2'' comes in from the side. That is called a "heel inlet"

 

[Pipe Dreams]

View attachment 41340

The toilet can be a simple 90, but it is better to use a long radius 90; the red marks.

A vent needs to come off the drain line vertically or no more than 45 degrees off vertical. The purple marks. Depending on how an inspector reads the code, this can be done with a Sanitary tee on its back. Just roll is at 45 degrees towards the existing vent line, add a street 45, and you will have a proper vent for the toilet.

If your inspector misinterprets the code, IMHO, they will say you need to use a wye instead of a Sanitary tee. That will just require more height which looks like you may not have without lowering your line. But if you can fit that in, that would eliminate any disagreements that may happen upon inspection.

I am also quite concerned about the joist that just ends with no support. The perpendicular blocking 2x10s (?) offers NO support to that joist. What is the plan to support that open end of the joist?

that would work also, your illustration

 

[robbie0202]

that would work also, your illustration

So do you all think this will work?
I would have loved to use a heel inlet 90 going down on the stack. But right above it is a window.
Is it possible to use a heel inlet 90 and take a 90 from the vertical heel to make it on the other side of the window then go up to vent?

 

[Twowaxhack]

If your vent is not washed (wet vent) then it’s not legal. It’s flat……

Is water running through that vent ? Lavatories ?

It should fail. But maybe the inspector will allow it.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The framer and plumber should’ve had breakfast one morning before the house started being constructed.

 

[MicEd69]

So do you all think this will work?
I would have loved to use a heel inlet 90 going down on the stack. But right above it is a window.
Is it possible to use a heel inlet 90 and take a 90 from the vertical heel to make it on the other side of the window then go up to vent?

The only way to dry vent the toilet per code in a UPC environment is to have the vent within 6 feet of the toilet, and have that vent come off the line vertically of no more than 45 degrees off vertical until you reach at least 6" above the flood rim of the toilet.

So, unless you can install the heel 90 going down the stack and run the dry vent up at no less than a 45-degree angle until you are 6" above the flood rim of the toilet to miss the window, you are in the same predicament you are now.

Does there happen to be a wall between the toilet and the tub where you can run the dry vent vertically up from the drain line and that would be within 6' of the toilet?

If not, you could ask for a variance from your jurisdiction. If this was under the IPC code, your vent for the shower would properly wet vent the toilet, and you wouldn't even need the vent in question. The reason for a dry vent not being flat before it is above the flood rim of the toilet is because it may become blocked when a stoppage happens downstream of the vent. Even that happens here, the toilet will be physically wet vented by the shower vent. As such, I would think that the inspector would allow the dry vent in this case, but that is totally up to them.