Broken threads on galvanized pipe

[cblaze22]

My pipe busted and also the threads must of went here too. This galvanized pipe goes all the way into the ground. Is there a way to connect this to the new piping or create new threads on it? The plumber thinks it’s too thin to create new threads. Any thoughts?

 

[Twowaxhack]

It needs to be replaced.

 

[cblaze22]

The entire pipe? We have to jackhammer down and get into the ground?

 

[dmmsr]

Before jackhammering you can try going to a local plumbing supply and renting a megapress and getting a stainless steel male adapter and install a threaded ball valve.

 

[gagecalman]

I'm not a plumber but I'd try to cut it lower and cut some new threads. Hold the pipe with a wrench so your not putting too much twist on it.
Use lots of oil. HF sells an inexpensive set. It should work for a small job.
If you get some good threads clean them, apply some teflon tape, then some pipe dope and thread on a full port ball valve.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-1-in-ratcheting-pipe-threader-set-5-piece-62354.html

 

[Twowaxhack]

You could try a dresser coupling. You just have to restrain the pipe from pulling out.

 

[cblaze22]

You could try a dresser coupling. You just have to restrain the pipe from pulling out.

I think my plumber is trying a dresser coupling but what do you mean pipe pulling out? How should I keep it in?

 

[MicEd69]

If the plumber thinks the pipe is corroded too much to cut new threads on it and based on what I can see from your pictures, you need to realize that any "fix" short of replacing the pipe all the way to its origin is going to be rather temporary.

You should use this type of Dresser coupling if you go that way.





I would advise against the Megapress approach as it would increase the need for the pipe to have better integrity thank your plumber believes, IMHO.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I think my plumber is trying a dresser coupling but what do you mean pipe pulling out? How should I keep it in?

You’ll need to stop all possible movement of the pipe on each side of the dresser coupling.

There are various way to accomplish that depending on the situation.

It sounds like the lower section of pipe comes out of the concrete. That’s not going to move.

But the piece adjoining to it with the coupling could possibly lift up and out from pressure. So restrain that top pipe with band iron or whatever…..it’ll last longer than your old pipe will.

 

[RS]

You don't say what the pipe is for, if it's pressurized, if so, how much, or is it a suction, or a drain. This all makes a lot of difference. You need to carefully inspect the inside of the pipe, if it's corroded very much I wouldn't try to thread it. There are numerous couplings available to connect to a pipe without threads, If it's just cold water and under 100 psi I would probably just use a good quality rubber hose with at least 2 clamps on each side. I have seen that work for many years in numerous situations.

 

[dmmsr]

If the plumber thinks the pipe is corroded too much to cut new threads on it and based on what I can see from your pictures, you need to realize that any "fix" short of replacing the pipe all the way to its origin is going to be rather temporary.

You should use this type of Dresser coupling if you go that way.

View attachment 38390

View attachment 38391

I would advise against the Megapress approach as it would increase the need for the pipe to have better integrity thank your plumber believes, IMHO.

But if it is that bad then he is only buying time with a dresser coupling as well. Let's face it replacing it is the best option. That is why I said before jackhammering I would try it. It it crushes I would start jackhammering right away. Putting on a dresser coupling you save integrity of a thinning pipe he can have a real mess on his hands when the rest of the pipe failsand hes not around to catch it. I only used dresser couplings on steam and heat piping in industrial settings when shut down need to be minimal and in a boiler room with floor drains. I would rather know now then have a false sense of security.

I get where you're coming from. I just have a different feeling toward the situation.

 

[MicEd69]

But if it is that bad then he is only buying time with a dresser coupling as well. Let's face it replacing it is the best option. That is why I said before jackhammering I would try it. It it crushes I would start jackhammering right away. Putting on a dresser coupling you save integrity of a thinning pipe he can have a real mess on his hands when the rest of the pipe failsand hes not around to catch it. I only used dresser couplings on steam and heat piping in industrial settings when shut down need to be minimal and in a boiler room with floor drains. I would rather know now then have a false sense of security.

I get where you're coming from. I just have a different feeling toward the situation.

Oh, you don't have a different feeling toward the situation at all. I agree with you 100%. That's why I said "any "fix" short of replacing the pipe all the way to its origin is going to be rather temporary." In retrospect, I should have left out the word "rather". I just thought I'd give him and his plumber the benefit of the doubt as they can see the condition of the pipe firsthand.

The difference between the Megapress and the Dresser fitting is that the Megapress puts a lot more stress onto the old pipe than the Dresser fitting does. So, if he does anything short of replacing the entire pipe, I suggest that he use the Dresser approach rather than the Megapress.

But if it was me, I would bite the bullet and replace the entire pipe.

 

[dmmsr]

Oh, you don't have a different feeling toward the situation at all. I agree with you 100%. That's why I said "any "fix" short of replacing the pipe all the way to its origin is going to be rather temporary." In retrospect, I should have left out the word "rather". I just thought I'd give him and his plumber the benefit of the doubt as they can see the condition of the pipe firsthand.

The difference between the Megapress and the Dresser fitting is that the Megapress puts a lot more stress onto the old pipe than the Dresser fitting does. So, if he does anything short of replacing the entire pipe, I suggest that he use the Dresser approach rather than the Megapress.

But if it was me, I would bite the bullet and replace the entire pipe.

Exactly what I would do.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d replace it or use a dresser coupling as an obvious temporary repair.

They cost a few dollars, and if the pipe is smooth on the outside and is restrained, they work fine.

I’m betting the farm that there’s not much pressure on whatever he’s working on….

 

[cblaze22]

Here is what we ended up doing? Let me know any thoughts.

 

[MicEd69]

Here is what we ended up doing? Let me know any thoughts.

Just realize that this is a temporary fix. I'd plan one replacing the pipe down to below ground soon.

 

[cblaze22]

Just realize that this is a temporary fix. I'd plan one replacing the pipe down to below ground soon.

How soon do you think?

 

[dmmsr]

Could always put a cts x ips mcdonald fitting. Usually used underground but would work fine aboveground. They have a collar that grips the pipes after tightening it ap they don't slip or blow off.

 

[MicEd69]

The issue is the current condition of you existing pipe. That's why I said in one of my posts that "I just thought I'd give him and his plumber the benefit of the doubt as they can see the condition of the pipe firsthand." The picture doesn't show how far down the internal rusty scale goes. If you have a relatively solid pipe where it was cut to install the Dresser fitting, then this fix could last for some years. But if it is as bad as the top of the piece is where is broke, I would guess within a couple of years you may experience more problems. It's just hard to tell looking at pictures.

 

[cblaze22]

Got it, appreciate the insight.