Broken 90 deg elbow

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Whitbydad

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I have a broken elbow where the 1.5" drain down pipe enters the 4" pipe which goes below the basement concrete floor. The blue tape on the drain is where the pipe is cracked.
Any ideas on how I should fix this?
Thanks in advance.
 

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HWSleuth

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Cut the 2” pipe a foot above the broken elbow. Use a heat gun and heat the 2” hub in the 4” fitting. Sometimes the glue will turn loose and allow you to remove elbow. Or, you can cut the 2” pipe flush with the 2” hub and use a special hole type saw that will remove old pipe from the 2” hub. If you don’t have a clean out close on the 2” line, good opportunity to add one.
 

Whitbydad

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You don't need a real expensive one. You just hook it to a drill and ream
I've purchased a socket saver and intend on reaming out the pipe and bushing in the 2" inlet. Wouldn't it be better to use a 2" 90deg long elbow and 2" pipe with a 2" clean out and use a coupler to attach it to the 1.5" drain?
I was thinking the 2" pipe and 90 elbow would be less likely to clog in the future.
Is that a good idea or am I just going to create more problems?
 

arctic bill

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I would cut a slot at the bottom of the socket through the pipe only. then hammer a sharp screw driver in the grove between the socket and the pipe . going ever so slowly inch by inch , Until i had made the whole circle . I wonder if anybody else uses this trick?
 

Whitbydad

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[QUOTE="Whitbydad, post: 138087,



I've purchased a socket saver and intend on reaming out the pipe and bushing in the 2" inlet. Wouldn't it be better to use a 2" 90deg long elbow and 2" pipe with a 2" clean out and use a coupler to attach it to the 1.5" drain?
I was thinking the 2" pipe and 90 elbow would be less likely to clog in the future.
Is that a good idea or am I just going to create more problems?
 

Whitbydad

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You don't need a real expensive one. You just hook it to a drill and ream out the fitting.

I've purchased a socket saver and intend on reaming out the pipe and bushing in the 2" inlet. Wouldn't it be better to use a 2" 90deg long elbow and 2" pipe with a 2" clean out and use a coupler to attach it to the 1.5" drain?
I was thinking the 2" pipe and 90 elbow would be less likely to clog in the future.
Is that a good idea or am I just going to create more problems?
 

Twowaxhack

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I would cut a slot at the bottom of the socket through the pipe only. then hammer a sharp screw driver in the grove between the socket and the pipe . going ever so slowly inch by inch , Until i had made the whole circle . I wonder if anybody else uses this trick?
If the fitting is not supported on the outside you’ll likely break the fitting.

Heating it helps and also putting a large hose clamp around the outside of the fitting helps to support it.

If it’s solvent welded properly it’s very difficult to get it apart with a unsupported hub......
 

Twowaxhack

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[QUOTE="Whitbydad, post: 138087,



I've purchased a socket saver and intend on reaming out the pipe and bushing in the 2" inlet. Wouldn't it be better to use a 2" 90deg long elbow and 2" pipe with a 2" clean out and use a coupler to attach it to the 1.5" drain?
I was thinking the 2" pipe and 90 elbow would be less likely to clog in the future.
Is that a good idea or am I just going to create more problems?
That will be fine, use a long sweep 90 and install a test tee cleanout above it. If possible put the cleanout high enough to get a nice bucket under it.....not down at the floor.

always leave room to cut between fittings if you can. This makes repairs or additions easier sometimes.

Things like that separate the pros from the Lowe’s crowd.
 

Whitbydad

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If the fitting is not supported on the outside you’ll likely break the fitting.

Heating it helps and also putting a large hose clamp around the outside of the fitting helps to support it.

If it’s solvent welded properly it’s very difficult to get it apart with a unsupported hub......
I purchased a socket saver in order to drill out/ Reem the fitting so that a new fitting would work.
 

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